Mopar1973Man

Well if you got a AD or FASS then there is no load on the ECM just that the ECM triggers the realy for the pump so there is virtually no serious amp load there. I so I would check the stock ECM leads for voltage...

Don't you mean M73M???

Well at least it fixed Right?

Curious...

Something is wrong... Being the same OBD data is being sent to the dash, Qiadzilla and the UG... They should all read the same...

Thanks for the chat on the phone glad to meet you and I hope you stick around and share you knowledge with the rest of the members here...

P0230 - Transfer Pump (Lift Pump) Circuit Out of Range Basically either the lift pump is pulling to much amps (lock rotor, shorted wiring) or to little amps (open connector or armature issues inside the lift pump) Now as for my power lead to the AirDog they are NOT hook to the battery. My connections are done off the studs in the power distribution box to prevent acid/corrosion to the wiring. As for my battery cables I keep them coated with engine oil and NEVER had to clean them nor had weak connection issues ever!

I'm patiently waiting...

There isn't much to to trailer axles. Couple of springs and axles... Not like a Dodge front axle... :lmao:But yeah measure everything and double check the measures of the axle placement... Now if you find that something is bent you might have to make a few phone calls to local truck shops to see if they can straighten the axle back in place for ya. (Possible? )

My first BHAF lasted 7 years and 130K miles before I gave up because the media inside the filter was starting to dis-color slighlty and I didn't want to push my luck too far. Still no restriction shown by the filter minder...

You mean this one..

Well I've been helping a neighbor do a power steering gear box project. This Ford truck is a beauty all original and in really good shape and straight. As for the power steering box it was ruined and so was the pump. The owner changed the pump and the gear box was goofy and sticky. So he got a deal on a used Saginaw box to replace the current Saginaw box... Here is the hitch the box steering back-wards! Ok... So I got creative and decided to open the other box and pull the rack and sector gear and do a switch. Talk about a all day project. Managed to get it all swapped out and ran down to the shop where the was and install it. Got it fire up and wheeled out side to add more fluid knowing it going to burp and pump foam out. System filled up and the wheel start oscillating... :banghead: The power valve inside most likely skipped the pin and causing this issue. So the truck is now in my yard and I get to start all over again... I'll get it yet! :pray:As for the steering setup is all custom fabricated from 02 Dodge steering shaft to 71 Dodge steering box... :wow:Pictures come tomorrow...

Might do a voltage drop test... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm This test can be done on any wiring the same way... But to see lower voltage at the pump is a concern...

Might check the center bolts in the axle to be sure there not broke off...

Lower the cetane the more BTU's... Summer Fuel dark green and winter fuel light green... So the more cetanr booster you add the worse the MPG's will be... But the more 2 cycle oil you add the more MPG's will be... But there is a limit of about 100:1 ratio below that the fuel is overload in oil becomes way too smokey and the MPG's start to fall again because the fuel burns too slowly.

One thing nice about manuals I still run my Edge Comp wide open but I get the choice of controlling the gears and how quickly the clutch gets dropped.I'm back to running my fat 265/75 R16 Cooper STT's... :rolleyes:About 2-3" inches of snow here now this morning...

What your fuel pressure from idle to WOT @ highway speed?

Actualy I've seen where the ECM have failed internally from lock rotors in the the lift pump and cause excessive current flow through the ECM which fries it out... So I would bump the starter and check the lift pump connector with a DVM and see if 12 volt is seem if so then the lift pump is dead most likely...

So very true!

When mine was done the shop in Ontario, OR just pulled the carrier gear out and install from inside the pumpkin.

Yes...

Can you control cold to hot with a good amount of change?Is the blend door sticking?Is the 2 hoses to the heater core the same temp? Sign the heater core is plugged up.

After making that video of my fan clutch which happens to be a nearly 10 year old fan clutch now and it still works fine for lockup while towing you can still hear it like a turbo prop plane. But after finding out that fan rolls free like that I call BS on the need for electric fan because virtually the fan is not creating any load as long as its unlocked.I ran for nearly a month in the cool of the winter and seen no change in coolant temps nor did I see a change in MPG's because the fan is not loading the engine in anyway...But if a fan is locked up or dragging yeah I can see it causes more noise and reducing MPG's slightly but as for needing to switch to electric fans no... Not required these fan clutches do there job just fine...

Yes sir...

I usually aim for about 100*F and pack up and haul tail... But yes the EB does cut warm up time considerable.