Mopar1973Man

These where all developed sites... West side of the lake near Tamarack...

Fuel pressure is way to low... Head over here and do some reading... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm As for the light that is a internal ECM thing. You might try to have a Dodge Dealer re-flash it... Typically with my truck I never even look for te ligt or even wait I just nail te key and go. So I know the WTS light issue is a ECM problem.

I knew AH64ID would come save the day... Thanks!

Oh yeah 6,000 times a minute or a 100 times a second. So at idle its 800 RPM's (roughly speaking) divide by 2 and the injection pump turning 400 PRM's which fires all 6 injectors in 1 revolution which happens to be 2400 times a minute the injection pump fires or divide by 60 again and it actually firing 40 times a second... I don't think my hands are that fast...

Here you go guys and gals a water hammer video... This will give you a good feel of what is going on with the gauges. Now remember the injection pump turns at 1/2 the rate of the crank but fires all 6 injectors in 1 360* turn of the gear. So let say your cruising at 2K RPM's so the injection pump is turning 1K RPM's but fires 6,000 times a minute. This is why you really don't see pressure change like my video but since the frequency of the valve open/close causes a buzzing noise to mechanical gauges. Also my irragation system is much higher pressure compared to liftp pumps but the same efect happens just on a smaller scale.I blown up the filter once already being dumb and slammed shut a ball valve. It absolutely exploded!

Well I got to admit ISX is right stay in 4th gear 1:1 ratio set the cruise for 53 MPH (2K RPM's) towing the Jayco and made new record 13.1 MPG when I got home... That climbing a 6% grade with tight corners (25 MPH) in 3rd Gear. Towing a Travel Trailer (GCWR ~15,000) EGT: 600-800*FAmbient Temp: 85FHumidity: 12%Boost: 2-15psiSpeed: 53mphRPM:2000 IAT Was locked at 140*F...

Failed... Ended back home again... The are we wanted to stay around is reservations only with the local USFS station. :banghead:

Well at least for the 2nd Gen 24V series Hx35 turbo you start to worry about boost at 32-35 PSI... Then at about 40-50 PSI you start to worry about head gaskets. Then like in my little wild tale I lost a manifold bolt on a trip and lost all boost down to 8 PSI. Nice to have the gauge...

Do you have the hydraulic valve under the bed to control the rear brakes? As for the parking brakes a lot of it is about adjusting the starwheel adjusters till the shoes just barely drag. don't rely on the autoadjusters to do the job...

Basically more boost more fuel consumed! Load... You can hold you throttle steady but climb a mild grade boost will increase. Boost also keeps the EGT's in check to when towing heavy loads more boost is normal which keeps the fuel burning clear (no smoke) and EGT's down to a managable level. Like running around empty I'm lucky if I see above 5 PSI cruising... But now load my truck with firewood or hitch up the Jayco behind me I might be lucky to see boost pressures below 10 PSI cruising. But out here where I'm at in Idaho there lots of rolling hills and grades so I've seen up to 32 PSI of boost climbing a 6% grade. Basically its nice to monitor that because you know you getting a good amount of air for the amount of fuel your supplying.

Cable??? Are you drum or disc rear end? Disc brake adjustment. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/e-brake/e-brake.htm

Caj really does have a quiet truck the amount of times I talked to him on the road I've NEVER heard the truck... Dang JL... See what I got to put up with??? Still think its funny as hell...

Yeah gang... I'm all hitched up and going to run away from home for awhile. I'm actually going where there is no power, cell service, internet, etc... Time to explore the great state of Idaho... More pics and maybe video when I return!

What size injectors? 20 PSI of boost isn't going to be enough and you going to need a boost fooler and boost elbow for the trubo so you can build more boost to keep the EGT's in control.

Apparently you still have a slow leak somewhere... Because the the only time I've seen 20 PSI on the low side while recharging was at 45*F outside temp. The other fact is it odd that the low side switch is allowing the freezing to occur that switch shouldn't alway the compressor to run below 30 PSI it should be cycling right now.. But all the dodge Trucks I've down typically will have 35-45 PSI on the low side and about 35-45*F out of the center vent.

I like the old school plumbing... JIC fittings and push loc's...

Perfect... Ok... Few questions? Q: Under heavy throttle are you seeing black smoke? Q: Do you have a boos gauge by chance if so what kind of boost pressure are you seeing? Q: Are you noticing a oil level rising? Or smell of diesel fuel in the oil?

Look at the scale for R134a and you'll see its 19-20*F temperature... Too cold.. Now look at your gauges... (Opps the red text should be lower 35*F and upper 40*F) Here is Dodge FSM suggested pressures... More freon the warmer its gets. As you see on the gauge as the pressure rises the temperature rises. When I was doing R12 A/C units they where charger to 40-60 PSI running. Then when I did fridgerators they where 2-5 PSI running. Take another look at the temp scale on your gauge and you'll see you need to add more freon yet.

Sorry...

Could you possibly fill in your signature with the information of your truck so other would know what you got...

Yeap your low on freon... As the pressure starts to drop a bit the temp of the evaporator falls more and with high humidity the icing starts forming and no its not normal you want it to sweat but not ice up on you. Because after a while the evaporator will freeze solid and not pass air. So as you increase pressure slightly to about 40-45 PSI on the low side it will stop icing up. Typically the low side switch should shut down the compressor for freezing conditions.

Might be a good idea... I'll add to the pile I'm finding more people with time problems. The truck might have really low mileage and the owner is all relaxed about it thinking the truck will last a life time. Not True! So just because the odometer is extremely low miles doesn't mean that something big won't fail. Just this month alone I've see 2 trucks now with less that 100K miles with fried ECM's (Lift pump circuit failed).

You might check over at the manufactures web site for the product and see if there is something your missing...

Try downloading one of the wiring diagrams and that will give you a clue at least on how its wired...

Correct... That little hole is the return line out to the fuel rail inside the head... That exits at the back of the head then tees together with the overflow and then heads to the fuel tank.