Mopar1973Man

The only way I know to test them is go to a dealer and have a leak down test done... Or pull them out and and pop test them. Either way you looking to see if the injector leaks before the signal to fire.

I think Wild & Free might be able to tell ya some info...

I tend to think you problem is much deeper than just a grid heater... Because right now I'm seeing moring temps as low as 48*F here in Idaho and I have no grid heater at all it completely disabled. Being the WTS light is not coming on I got feel ing its more of ECM issue...I will continue to leave my grid heater disabled till 32*F and then re-enable them again...

Well as for the AirDog line I've been seeing more and more problems concerning the plumbing issues. It gives you only one place to mount the pump because all the fitting are already crimped to the hoses and already pre-measured for a certain route. New Style fittings... Old school fittings... Then if I wanted to move the pump to a new location I can because the push-loc fitting allow me to design it any way I wish where with crimp & quick connects you can not you forced to only there setup. Like a local rancher out here got smart long ago and added a pre-filter before the stock lift pump. So when the stock pump died I told him to get a Raptor. What a mess... We ended up chopping up the entire hose setup buying more fitting because the location of the pump was in a bad spot being he use the truck off road. THen adding the prefilter to the plumbing, then adding a fuel pressure gauge on top... :banghead: After than experience it left a very bad taste in my mouth... Now from what I understand FASS kept the JIC & Push-loc fitting in there system they do cost a bit more but its worth it...

Being I just put 187K miles on my stock brake pads... All Exhaust brake...

Hopefully this works for ya...

Way low... :stuned:You and Dorkweed need to get together and talk a bit... He's getting at least 18-19 in the Mighty Whitey...

First off I don't suggest locating the fuel pressure gauge on the steering column if the gauge is going to be direct plumbed. (Safety issue) As for fuel plumbing... You can go to NAPA and pick up Polyon air brake line and it only 57 cents a foot. While your there pick up a needle valve to dampen the water hammer pulses. Part number (WH6820) cost about $8 bucks. Nice part is if there is any problem just shut the valve. But typically the vavle is barely crack open so if there was a problem it would most likely just drip. As with the Raptor fuel system you will not have a banjo fitting. You'll have to drop over to VulcanPerformance and either pick up a push loc tee like what I'm using or tapped JIC elbow. All of Raptor's plumbing is quick connect and there is no place to add fuel pressure gauge in the system. Not to mention the Raptor kit doesn't replace the last piece of line between the fiter and the VP44 which if you don't replace you'll complain of wild pressure swings because of the restriction of flow (banjos and the small line diameter).

It's the internal parts of the VP44 that restricts the flow without the VP44 turning the flow is extremely limited...

Problem... No flow and it might run the batteries dead trying to cool it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU (Fast forward too 1:25 and see the return flow)

Give me a bit to dig it up...

Part placement...

Just right along with what Rogan posted... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4339-Put-Me-in-Charge...

Here you go... As you can see the light is a direct connection to the ECM. It's the Orange and Black wire running to the dash. You might check for error codes it might give a clue...

We get mostly Garter snakes around here. Black/brown and yellow strips and harmless... But what ever you do is don't pick it up bare handed. Garter snakes has a defense system of create a nasty stink through its skin and it doesn't wash off either. So hands will stink for days...

I always love that really expensive solution... Requires removal of the cam to change the gear case, new lift pump for higher fuel pressure or change the cam so you can use the mechanical lift pump, re-pop all the injectors for fit the P-pump, re-create throttle linkage for the p-pump, order a modified set of lines, the p-pump of course... But the time your done your looking at at least 2 days and right around $3000 roughly. Heck I could always buy a CR engine and spend that kind of money of injectors...

But the funny part is cooling the upper part does no good being there is plastic and air gap between the electronics... The back side is aluminum and dump heat into the fuel.So I understand why BlueChip was thinking run the lift pump after the truck is shut down would actually cool it down but the fact is the VP44 doesn't flow much fuel unless its turning...

Nothing... Those threads are for the factory removal tool... Basically a thread cap to aid pulling the tube out. Most of us use a screwdrive and lightly pry them out..

Yeah LED's do create a problem with the flashers. I'm glad you found a solution.

Ahhh... I've built a different system that allow you to directly donate to the system or basically work it off by helping others... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/donations/donation2.htm

We've got those around here too... Just about average size for here.

Here is what's in the head... There is 2 o ring present but there are not to seal the fuel in. The actual high fuel is upwards of 18K to 22K PSI.The only thing that seal the fuel into the lines in the tappers of the connector tube.

Well I've seen several truck this year lose the lift pump part of the ECM where it randomily trips the lift pump and randomly shuts it down too...

Hey I know you... :thumb1:You more than welcome here... Get a few post behind you and your account will upgrade...

How about just a single bolt pop out of the manifold cover and see the boost go from 30 PSI to 8 PSI.. No it doesn't take much to lose boost pressure.