Mopar1973Man

It's been down to -25*F and no additive for gelling use... I still just running my 2 cycle oil at 128:1 ratio... So far no problems.

CAN BUS is down by the ECM and engine mount...

Boy Rogan you got a good talent for shooting pictures... Wow!

Slow again like usual Rogan... He just called last night and is just crossing the 960K mark... On a personal note Caj told he had hurt his back doing a job on a boat a few days ago. Now he's fighting a sore back while he drives cross country. I hope your back heals soon bud... I even said a few prayers so maybe you get some relief...

Yeap... Rogan correct... The code there should be enough for any body shop to mix the proper paint color...

I've got my set of JL Welding certified fan wrenches...

At idle or at wide open throttle? Seem you got a air leak possible? Old school trick is to park nose down and see if it start easier. Compared to nose up (drain back).

Great to see you return back to the site...

It could... Creates a issues for that side... I would rather try all the little cheap things first before ever pointing the finder at things that are expense like ECM/PCM or VP44... So double check and check all the small cheap stuff before pointing the finger at bigger money...

Really odd... The error codes you provided are of 3rd Gen code list more so than 2nd Gen...

Hey CajFlynn... What's your odometer say these days?

Funny... Most of the gaskets today really don't require any sealant typically... But yeah RTV Black with make it stick and stick for good...

Using any programmers? (Smarty or SuperChips) Try returning to stock...

I don't suggest using a rheostat (pot) for the fooler unless you have a way to monitor the IAT temps. Because it doesn't take much to go either way... But 100-120*F is a good normal starting temperature and work your way up. I think 140*F is going about the high mark of normal.

Be aware there is Wide series and a narrow series now...

Like ISX said you want it to see higher IAT temps. Also you need to use a winter front as much as possible. The actual warm air under the hood actually help the MPG numbers. Where colder air tends to degrade the out come...

Try getting one from NAPA? Or other parts store? That nothing to sneeze at for price...

Seem like the old girls (trucks) are wearing out internally now...

So what would you use for bait? Walnut butter???

Problem is that OBDII standard where suppose to be generic from 0000-0999 then model specific from 1000-9999. But it didn't quite work that way. So without knowing a lot about the truck or vehicle the codes are coming from make it hard for me to look up. Basically did a search on my site for the codes and they popped up in the 3rd Gen (assuming this is the vehicle)

Well I'm not running any kind of heater... No problems with fuel yet...

Well your going to have to look at the trailer plug in back and see what wire is back there for the plug. Then your going to have to trace it forward to the cab. I'm pretty sure its there just stashed. Like I didn't know there is a stub wire in the harness down on the driver side frame for center brake light for toppers... Yeap its there you just got to know it exist... Let me dig for my wiring diagrams... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=129 Just check it shows thre trailer plug and controller plug...

Wow! Another Idahoian... I wondering where there all at...

0628 - low voltage detected at the fuel lift pump 0529 - ? 0541 - low voltage on the no. 1 intake air heater relay 0483 - Fan speed

Actually the ECM is connected to the driver side ground terminal... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm