Mopar1973Man

Give the man a beer... Your right they are the EXACT same color...

Now is Square A the same color as Square B? Go ahead and check the color using a photo editor and you tell me!

Continued over here... /threads/3470-2011-Mopar-Theme">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3470-2011-Mopar-Theme

Ummm... Now that really dumb... That is a street bike and it legal to ride on the highway...

P0336 is Crankshaft sensor. Basically need to replace the sensor there above the starter. It will require removal of the starter to get the sensor out.

Kind of like this...

Welcome to the group...

D'Oh!

I'll let you know at about 500K miles... Seriously... It's easy to mantain, filters are cheap and plentiful, etc... The only thing I had to order for replacement parts was the base O-ring and I bought 4 of them for about $10 bucks or so... Another nice thing Frantz Filters are American Made right here in Nampa, Idaho. The competetion was the Motor Guard made in the same fashion... Which is no long produced but you can talk to Dorkweed he's got one... Been over 80K miles without a oil change and tested through Blackstone labs...

Well went up to McCall to get some shopping done... New Meadows, ID $3.699Riggins, ID $3.659

Here is a few to keep you thinking... 1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100I - 6,000 miles (oil change and filter 5 quarts) 2008 Honda Rancher ATV - 600 miles (oil change and filter 4 quarts) Both values are right from the Honda Factory Service Manual... Now to give you some more to think about... So now comparing filter systems... The little Honda Rancher ATV to Cummins Fleetguard... But how many grams of debris do you think the Honda filter and the Cummins filter will hold? Ahhh! Since the filter system is so tiny in contrast to the Cummins filter thats why the change interval is reduced greatly. Same thing goes for cars like the filter for my Dodge Charger is half the size of the Cummins. Compared to the average Cummins owner stays to the pavement most times. But see here is where the Frantz picks up the slack for me since most of my travel is dirt road in Idaho I'm like the ATV so to add some extra protection I jump in on the Frantz filter to add in filtering down the oil. I'm not saying this is the ONLY answer but very inexpensive answer for a person that lives way out in the middle of nowhere Idaho...

The owners manual states 7,500 miles for oil change... Why would you start below this value? Remember this isn't a 5 quart gasoline engine this is a 11 quart diesel engine. Now if the pan only held 5 quarts I would be changing every 5k miles but remember you got more oil in the sump than a normal gasser... I've seen a few comments about Frantz filters here... Well here is a guy in Oregon that did a great write up on the Frantz Filter... http://www.cumminsforum.com/articles/articles/18/1/Anatomy-of-a-Frantz-toilet-paper-bypass-oil-filter/Page1.html

Being the brake system went dry for some reason I would check all the wheel cylinders and calipers... I mean actually take them apart and inspect the seals, pucks, cylinders, etc... Then bleed the system out till clean fluid is seen. As for the power steering I would flush that system out as well... Just like AH64ID does here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/ps-flush/ps-flush.htm As for the rest of the fluids... Get them changed out... Coolant, Engine Oil, Trans Fluid, Axle Lube, etc.

Yeah... Still flowing oil at 5K miles no problem.

Just a side not for you AH64ID... I'm changing my Frantz Filter every 5K miles and full oil change at 10K so basically I loose 1 quart of oil at the filter change and it puts me exactly at the half way mark between full and add so I run the last 5K and change it completely by 10K miles. So there is no make up oil needed...

Wow... (speechless)

Nice find on the switch... That is one thing I don't have up here in Idaho is good stocked Radio Shack... You can fit all there stuff in a single closet... As for re-starting the last mode of operation you should be able to flip the coolant fooler on and it should revert right back to the last mode of operation so if you started with 3 cylinder that will be the mode it resumes again...

Thanks Caj I feel the love... Now I'll go to my corner and cry...

Nothing wrong with it... With my high idle fooler and exhaust brake I kick in the 3 cylinder high idle sometimes just to get heat in the cab. Within about 2-3 minutes the 3 cylinder high is running and EGT are on the way to 800*F. With in about 2 minutes the engine coolant is already 100*F... But that the whole idea of the design is to put the engine under load as quickly as possible to prevent engine damage from fuel wash, tar build up on the valves, etc. Because normal idle will produce very little heat. This is why its suggest to start the engine and start driving it easy right after starting because now you creating load and will gain heat quickly.

Totally normal...

If you keep your EGT's up to about 400*F it will help in keeping the fuel burning... You shouldn't see the exhuast slobber... (Kind of like him) Just turning on the exhaust brake is usually enough to keep the pyrometer up...

I learned that fact quickly... I had a pack rat living on the engine for a short while so I got a box of DeCon and left it on the PDC fuse box. Well he was eating the bait and took 4 days for him to die. Yes 4 days! But you don't want to know where I found him... You know the large hole in the bottom of the tailgate.... He got his head into there and died... Then proceeded to swell up in the hole... I got my buddy Taz to grab ahold and pull him out... Trust me he just about tore in half... Ewwww... (Yuck!)

Wonderful read there... I too carry a firearm with me... I might not have to worry about the people element but I also got to be aware of the 4 legged element too (Wolves, Cougars, etc.) Enuf Said right there!