Mopar1973Man

Sthl 046 with a 32" bar...

Hmmm.. The only thing I can think off is the alternator is got a bad diode feeding AC wave form into the PCM causing this weird issue. Or the APPS sensor is bad in a spot causing a weird value fed to the PCM.

Still bleeding isn't going to fix it... What happens as you use your brake the pads heat up the pucks and the brake fluid kind of dries and hards to the pucks and what happens is the pucks grown in diameter. So now you got to check you puck for proper diamension and you find with a seal and trying to put the puck in a empty caliper it wont fit. But now take 600 grist sandpaper and light start sanding and you'll see the dried harden brake fluid on the pucks. Now continue till the pist fall into the empty bore without pushing. Remember this is WITHOUT seals in place. As for the debris here is what the debris and the harden brake fluid does to the seals it ruins them... Look at all the chew marks from debris... So bleeding isn't going to wash that out... As for bleeding... This is what comes out... This is what goes in... What's funny... With the truck on jackstands and 1 bottle of brake fluid I can do all 4 brake calipers in about 2 hours... Disassemble, wash, dry, inspect, reassemble, bleed, and your done... Remember this is all I do about every 2 years for disassembly and the full bleed every year... But at 178K miles still running on stock brake pads from the dealer...

Yeah I do have a way... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm Then talk to Prowelder if you want to purchase one... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/group.php?groupid=6

Already got my winter front on and been running it since Oct 20...

Man someone needs to sharpen their chainsaw... As for me I... I'm also a wood burner... Here is my monster log...As the camera woman shoot this pic I was thinking "Ow! My back!" Pulled by a 1st Gen... Thanx Taz

No different that 39...

Just go to www.tapatalk.com and download the App for your phone it automatically will convert so you phone can use the site...

My first I would say is get a exhaust brake... I'm at 178K miles currently and NEVER change the brake pads yet... But Yes I've done plenty of brake service to the truck I've done 2 caliper rebuilds so far. Basically take the calipers off and dis-assemble and clean and check all the pucks for fit, inspect the seals and weather boots. That what I found that gives the life to brakes. I do full brake fluid changes every 30K miles or once a year and about every 4 years take the caliper apart and clean them. I find that the brake fluid builds up on the pucks and they start to bind up so you must take then apart and clean them. Also just bleeding the system isn't enough... I found that even my truck over time will settle water and debris in the bottom of the calipers of course no amount of bleeding will remove it... So the only way it to remove and dis-assemble and clen them... But my stock brake pads still live on...

Ah it was you that call my cell phone... I'm glad I helped you get it figured out...

Still using my RV275 in my beast Thanx CajFlynn....

Right on... You sound like you could be my twin...

Shoot if I was paying attention... I would been able to point you to... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fca/fca.htm

Thanx White I can use that adjustment on Mom's 96 Dodge Gasser... I always wanted to check that...

Well white is right is "should" be change everytime but I've managed to re-use mine a few times now with no problems. The copper washer is a multi-purpose piece... 1. Adjusts spray angle height.2. Conducts heat away from the injector into the water jacket.3. Seal for the compression gasses. So after using them a few times it might crush a bit changing angles and sealing abilities...

Check for error codes (P0230) Lift pump out of range... Ok... The trigger power for the Raptor is straight from the ECM there is no other relay or fuse... Beyond that Raptor should have its own fuse and relay. Check for power when the key is bumpped. If there is no power at the Yellow/White (YL/WT) wire at the ECM then the ECM is toast. As for the fuel pump relay in the PDC thats the relay for the injection pump...

Well I'm right behind you... at 40 now...

Too aggressive of a box for daily driving. I ran into a guy in Boise, ID while I was getting my windows tinted and ask him about his truck and he toook me for a ride... Right about one thing it will make your truck rip... But its very hard to drive without being too aggressive...

Some of my information is from watching the SGII under different road speeds on the same roads, weather factors, and everything else... I tend to agree with ISX speed is the number one killer of MPG's...

Error code management is handled by a trip counter and a warmup cycle counter. Bit more information... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

I tend to agree with Russ on this... The only way I could see running duals still would be make a fully stand-alone system. [*]Separate batteries [*]Seperate voltage regulator Because Russ has a valid point you won't be able to tie a second alternator to the existing PCM without causing problems. But still in all even with all the fire truck I worked on I've never seen a dual alternator setup for even some of the big rigs we had... All of them still managed just fine with 100-120 Amp alternators... The only thing we did to keep the batteries up was high idle the engine at 1,000-1,200 and never had a problem...

I would say then just a stock SO VP44 pump... (Generic)

May I ask what kind of load are you putting on the electrical system that 120 Amp alternator can hold? When I worked Salmon River Rural Fire Dept I would have all the light going including my overhead and just set the high idle and it could sit there and purr for hours without a problem...

Central Timer Controller or (CTC) CTC deals with wipers, alarm, remote functions, heated seats, etc... Most all the interior functions are controlled by the CTC.

What I found is the sweet spot for me is right between 1,500-2,000 RPM's but limit the speed to a max of 60 MPH...