Mopar1973Man

Sorry to say even I've got torque management with a 5 speed transmission... Right around 25-30 MPH it releases and all hell breaks loose for me... 1st and 2nd are mild... But 3rd is a whole new animal...

That's sad to hear... Hey CajFlynn you could talk to JohnFak he's in St. Louis area...

Well GlowShift is one of the cheaper gauges on the market but fairly popular too. I tend to agree the the GlowShift gauge look better over the Autometer. Not to mention your 0-100 PSI fuel pressure gauge is a bit wide don't you think?

The only thing to remember about doing work on anything around the airbag requires you to disconnect both batteries for a period of time to discharge the firing capacitor for the air bags. So after that you safe... If it was me before I'd go through the trouble of doing a clock spring I would test the clockspring for opens and short with a DVM from pin to pin. This way you can also check the control switches too...

Well I sorry to say I checked over my books and didn't find anything about the tone ring torque specs... So if it was me I would torque it to the specs of the bolts capacity and use some locktite on it as well...

Hmmm... I would say to look at wiring looms and see if something is getting pinched...

In your case the IAT sensor sense the temp reports it back to the ECM and either uses one or both grid heaters to warm the intake. I would check for error codes to see if the P0380 or P0382 pops up that would tell you if you relays are good. There is a fusable link near the batter running down to the grid heaters. So check and see if the at the relays (studs). Then using a live data tool like a ScanGauge II or simular check and see if the IAT is dropping below 65*F or is showing a invalid temp say like 90*F on a 50*F morning. This points to a failed sensor within limits but will not trip a error code. Tell you the truth you don't need grid heaters till about 40*F...

Doing my mod will put a extra 2-3" worth of height on the pipe and make it that much more highier and les likely to make a mess... Yea I do put a drip on the shop floor now and then but very little mess under the truck.

At this point they should be filled with non-null value of the next service of each.

Give CaJFlynn a call he wants someone to look at a truck for him... (To buy)

http://engineserviceinc.net/Light_Duty.html This should work for ya...

Edge Juice = Edge Comp Edge Juice (Hot Unlock) = Edge Comp Drag They are basically the same module with the same programming... The Edge Juice though on the hot unlock has a 6th level... When the Comp only has the 5 levels and then I think they both fuel all the way to redline. The only difference is Edge Juice got all the pretty toys and Edge Comp well is just a box...

That error code normally comes from the Smarty... If you return to stock setting, clear your codes and run awhile you find the code never comes back till you put the Smarty back on again....

As far as I know there is no gasket for the front cover and most people just silcone the cover on. As for removal... Fan belt, fan and pulley, crank damper and pulley... So that should get you at it... Knowing the filler neck is steel I would remove it find a piece of copper pipe and soldier a patch over the hole in the filter neck. I done this kind of patch work on steel fuel tanks when the owner got over zealous and drilled into the fuel tank. (Not me!)

Welcome to the group... Sound like you got a good deal on a truck that was repaired and freshen up...

Chip is technically like the enhancement box... This comes from the gasoline engines where people phyiscally pulled the the "Chip" out of the early GM vehicle and replaced them with a "Enhanced Chip". But as you know there is no way to do this on our trucks so its either "Re-Flash" the ECM with a "Programmer" or use a "Enhancement Box"...

All elbows are 90* fittings... But there is a male/female threaded coupling to allow removal of the down pipe.

Passing on a message for CajFlynn from a cell call... Could someone take a look at a truck for me down in the Houston, TX area... Please contact CajFlynn at 303-570-4325

I think that's 1/2" or 5/8" ID hose...

Shopping list... 3 slip-slip elbows1 slip-male thread elbow1 slip-female thread coupling2 hose clamps6" of 3/4" heater hose4-5 feet of 1/2" PVC pipe

Most programmers are limited to 60 HP that's it... I think there is only so far you can go with values before the ECM just goes . But Now most fueling/timing boxes max out at 120 HP... Except Quadzilla Adrenaline at 150 HP... But since most fueling/timing boxes alter the signal after the ECM and can extend well beyond the limits of the ECM software so this why most boxes tend to produce more power. But like I told you ISX on the phone the wire tap to the solenoid on the VP44 is the factor that adds the fuel beyond the ECM's abilities. So without the wire tap most boxes limit to 40-60 HP period... So the theory is if you beef up the ECM signal and getting more fuel then the box would add more fuel on top of that signal too. Now Smarty is able to cut back the torque management and get the fuel started heavy and hard down low were most boxes can't do it because they are at the mercy of the ECM's torque management. So with the stack it should produce a wicked combo. But now running 3 fueling mods with White's idea...

Theory of it... Programmer (Smarty) -> ECM -> External Box (Edge) -> VP44 So the programmer like Smarty alters the timing and fuel tables within the ECM so they are enhanced over stock values. Now the ECM assumes these are normal now. Edge modules sees the "Stock Values" and adds more fuel and timing to this and send this signal to the VP44... But thing to be careful of is not to stock 2 timing products together because over advancement of timing can occur and wipe out your pistons and rings... So like in the example above Smarty is normally ran in a non-timing program and the Edge would add more fuel and timing against the signal. The old school combo I remember was TST and Smarty... TST was a fuel only box and Smarty was a fueling and timing programmer so you got the best of both worlds. This fad slowly kind of faded away for awhile because with the Smarty people were finding certain combonations of boxes and programers where canceling out and other combos did better... --- Update to the previous post... Stacking is like what you run without a AFC and Plate...

Most critical numbers in my mind is... 1. HFRR score of the current fuel meeting the requirements of the VP44. (Lubricity value) 2. The fuel pressure at wide open throttle operation. Bosch requires the fuel lubricity to be of a score less than 400 HFRR for long life of the injection pump. But todays fuel averages right around 520 HFRR. I'm using 2 cycle oil to beef up the fuel lubricity but there are several products that do a really good job of adding lubricity. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm Then since there is only fuel to lubricate the injection pump during its maximum amount of stress at WOT operations should be enough fuel pressure to keep it lubed. Dodge/Cummins suggest 10 PSI as a minimum I suggest a minimum of 14 PSI. Beyond that enjoy your Dodge Cummins Truck...

I kind of wonder how much timing it going to produce? Is it going to be too much or not? I seen several different setup ans listings of setups but I tend to be wary about excessive stacking...