Mopar1973Man

Really simple... Build my setup... Now on the second relay all light hook to 87 or 87a just cant remember... As for the violet wire in the diagram goes where the green and brown wire is in the pic. Your setup you will have a relay there so you'll have to tuck the wire like my trailer relay. Then the trailer wire the green one in the drawing that would have a second switch one leg to the trailer relay like now, the center to the green wire, and the other leg would be to 12V.

Fog lamp relay in the PDC...

Welcome to the group... Well hang around there is going to be plenty of talk on cold weather here really quick so I'm sure if you start asking questions well get you geared up for the season... I just ate the last of my Idaho Smoked Salmon last night...

If it was me I would leave the banjo head ther but cut the tubing back flare the end slighly (homemade barb) and use a good fuel grade hose. The problem is the fitting in the VP44 is a Overflow valve so that can't be replaced. The overflow valve is a regulator to keep the fuel pressure up like ISX mention...

That's my thought on it too...Because if the valve is burnt, seat cracked, maybe cracked between exhaust seats, etc you not going to that on a blow by test. I also vote for compression test...

Naw... It's sweating horsepower...

Being your this far I would replace the... [*]Cam Cover Gasket [*]Both front and rear main crank seals

NO! I just here for the information... You need to find a new injection pump like ISX said...

I say with the lights... Because of one thing... If you got stock fog lamps now that means they are on with the lights now so if you aim the other light higher for a high beam position you going to want to drop them if you got on coming traffic. So if you got a toggle switch and a dimmer switch to worry about it just way too confusing on a later night when your tired... Keep the controls simple... Old controls wihch no longer exist... The jake still there but the other 2 switch are gone... Now here is the new controls... Fog lamps left, reverse lights center, red emergency light right... Everything else is controlled by standard head light switch and dimmer controls...

VP44 is dead... P1688 - Internal Fuel Injection Pump Controller Failure Internal problem within the fuel injection pump. Low power, engine derated, or engine stops. A tip... Any error code should be looked up in the manufacture factory service manual for that make and model so you get the right information about the error codes... Error code listing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/error-codes.pdf So sorry to say time to break out the check book...

If its a temporary test gauge there is a shrader valve on the Vp44 for a test port. If its a in cab gauge you'll need a tapped banjo bolt and hook the gauge up at the fuel filter outlet.

Then just bind all the light on one side of the second relay on the right. But be aware you can never upgrade to 100w bulbs then because you'll be 16.6 Amps with 4 50w bulbs load across the relay which is fine and you would use a 20 Amp fuse and 30 amp Aux Relay.

Interested in seeing this completed...

Then all you need to do on my setup is add 1 more rocker switch and tap the wire that goes to the trailer lights relay. So on one position is forced ON, OFF, Auto ON... So the terminal of the SPDT would be 1. +12V2. To light trigger relay3. To trailer relay Problem solved...

Ok... Few questions back at you? Q: What Version of Edge do you have Comp, EZ, Juice? Q: What did you unhook when you tested without the Edge? Cleaning rarely resolves a issue with a MAP sensor. Now as for the P1693 code that bothers me because you can't have a P1693 without another code present. Are you seeing 2 P-Done's???

Ok... Keep in mind ofr legal highway use there can only be 4 bulb burning in front. As for my setup I got a set that follow the dimmer switch with 2 relays... Nice part is they come on with the parking lights, and are controlled by the dimmer switch. Only 1 toggle switch to over ride and to FORCED OFF or AUTO. As for the 100w bulbs... I can see up to 1/3 of mile like daylight...

Welcome to the site... 2 things you need information on... 1. Error Codes - Yes you got to get a code reader of some sort (98.5 and 99 din't have the key feature)2. Fuel pressure - I highly suggest you mount a a gauge in the cab they are really cheap. ~$40

I question the solo P1693 code... There was another code in the process of being generated but what we'll never know... Error code from the TQ Conv lockup switch? Did you add the resistor to the wire? Guessin'

I got to admit its deserves a "Thank You!" good looking truck...

Release tools... Slide it up the tube into the spring. Push the collar hard and with a push and pull of the tube it should release... If not make sure the release tool is thick enough.

Another tidbit... (Information) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane

Ummm... Just for tossing out for information value... 2 Cords loaded on my truck each trip for total of 3 trips at 38 miles one way... 38 x 2 = 76 Miles round trip x 3 trips = 228 Miles total. Then a cord of dry wood is roughly 2,000 pounds so between the truck and trailer I had 4,000 pound of wood on. I know my truck gross weight is 7,900 empty. With 235/85 R16 hauling this wood for 1 day I still pulled 16.76 MPG (Hand Calc'ed) hauling heavy... Just to rub it just a little I'm looking at my SGII and its displaying 20.7 MPG right now... Oh yeah my Record lowest MPG ever is 14.10 MPG...

Not to argue but... Some people don't live near large cities with reclaiming equiptment (~180 miles)... Then looking at the cost of reclaiming equiptment its not user friendly for price... Maybe we should switch over to charging AC with propane? http://hackaday.com/2010/06/15/recharging-ac-with-propane/

According to the tire calculator on the internet at... http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html If your stock tire size was 265/75 R16 (637 Rev/Mile) then to 315/75 R16 (583 Revs/Mile) makes you... 9.3% off and if your travelling 60 MPH your actually travelling 65.6 MPH

Smarty or Dodge Dealer... The flash has to recalibrate the ABS and Speedometer. Oh... If your speedometer is off say 10% then so is the odometer off by the same amount...