Mopar1973Man

With either 150 series pump you have to pull the fuel tank... With either 100 series pump you can use the stock sender... But Size is the big issue! Can't mount a FASS here...

Actually with the Emission junk on you can't run the 2 cycle oil because of the DPF and EGR problems... But if you mod it later in life and yank that stuff out I know of a small handful of guy using 2 cycle in 6.7L that are moded... But the biggest problem is the filter... You need to add a 2 micron filter... The electronic injector are a weird duck but the fact is there is a very small BB that seats in the head of the to control the injector firing well the debris will hone the seat out where the BB seats and then it bleeds pressure causing the injector to bleed constantly... Hence hard starting and whit smoke issues.

As for 2 cycle oil I've been using it now for 4 year continueously without no harm to the injectors. As a matter of fact the injectors I got from CajFlynn just got a double shot of 2 cycle oil and finally fixed the miss problem... It was unbelieveable but it worked no more miss... As for the VP44 is still going strong without problem or issues... But I will admit exceeding 100:1 ratio (lower number) will change the smoke color more grey. 128:1 is a good starting place...

Glow shift are good gauge from what I've been told but you must protect the fuel pressure sensor with a snubber or needle valve...

now that is a good question for the vendors of the site for a price... As for how to do it... Well the first person to mind is Wild & free could tell ya...

That was true for the older 24V trucks like what I own... As for what the 6.7L trucks have I'm not sure... But the cords can be had a local NAPA store for much less...

Yeap that Auto is your weak link for getting the most out of your truck. If you did a Valve Body and TQ Conv at least it would hold the extra juice from a Chip and/or injectors. If your upgraded on the trans I would suggest trying a "Mystery Switch" for MPG's because then the Trans operates like a manual trans.

Myself I installed a industrial injection in a customers rig last summer and no issues as of yet... Might check with the vendors...

Go with stock VP44... Stock VP44's except the electronics better than the HR VP44...

Like here is a older PDF doc of my MPGs. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/pdf/2002-dodge-fuel-records.pdf (Go to page 13 for the graph) I know I need to update this... Now take notice everything from start to 50K miles is completely stock, 50K to 90K is stock fuel, BHAF and Straight pipe, 90K Edge Comp was installed. By 120K I bought my ScanGauge II as a guide and BOOM! The numbers took off. But I've been hovering in the 20-21 bracket now empty. I do most of my trailer towing work in the summer. What worse about mine is I start from 2,800 ft and drive down to Lucile Idaho. Then turn up a single lane dirt road wind 6 miles to the saddle at 7-8% grade. Then head up the hill to about 7,800 ft to cut firewood. Then haul it back down. Even then going back though my notebook and Excel sheet the lowest is 14.30 MPG ever. Now as for Chip I found that a performance chip that ties t othe VP44 does the best for MPG because of the sole fact it can adjust timing farther than factory ECM limitations. Like it the morning getting rolling with a cold engine it rattles to beat all this is the advancement of timing. But if you just turn off the Edge Comp its gone. Or even un plug the wire tap it gone... The other thing I found is the rattle is completely gone after 7-10 PSI (timing canceled) So Edge EZ is not going to do more than ECM rate. Now as for setting I leave it on 5x5 (max'ed) and control the fuel with my foot just like the old days of 4 bbl carbs. I keep my boost low if possible (more boost means more fuel and less timing). Another thing that helped a bunch is the RV275 injectors. I gain about 1-2 MPG from those because of the change in spray pattern.

I'm running AD 150 with no issues at temps as high as 120*F outside... Maybe the extra shot of 2 cycle oil is helping who knows...

Ok... Here I'm loaded with nearly 3 cords of firewood... My lowest MPG is 14 MPG ever on reocrd. As for weight... (empty)Total Weight 7,300# = 4,440# Front Axle + 2,860# Rear AxleI'm running a Edge Comp on 5x5 and keep my boost below 5 PSI anf pyro under 600*F and I see 20+ MPG empty. But towing the only advise is to set your cruise at 55 MPh and leave it alone...

Here something funny...

Well the ring gear and the clutch are toast... But the great aprt is a SB Clutch comes with flywheel and ring gear... As for the rear seal it look good to me there is no oil weeping out... Look at the back side of the flywheel is it oily???

Should be... But you never know if there was a change in software....

I got pulled over a while back for no mud flaps... I look back in my mirrior and ask why his vehicle didn't have any... Funny he gave me a warning and left... As for being straight piped... Just use your head and you can control the loudness of your pipe. If you got a heavy foot you going to attract every police offier around. But if you cool hand Luke you can cruise right on by and smiley every time. When I'm in Boise, ID I can run right beside police officer and just smile without a second thought... But I keep my foot light on the throotle... Been straight piped for 6 years now and never had a issues about it yet!

I'm posting this for Taz... He's looking for front end part for his truck which happens to be a 1992 Dodge cummins - 2WD - 1 Ton. He needs the tierods, center link, and the idler arm. With over 630K miles on the truck I can understand why they are wore out... But let help Taz get his truck running...

Here is a article that has a pic of a offset balljoint but the article offer a solution to the death wobble as well... http://dodgetruckworld.tenmagazines.com/articles.asp?page=tenarticle&aid=3849

Here is my write up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/muffler-delete/muffler-delete.htm I was so cheap I even re-used my old clamps. I went a extra step with a piece of re-bar and bent some hangers and welded them to my pipe for extra support. (not in pic)

As for pressurizing the fuel tank take a rag and blow gun and pack it in the filler neck. Give it a burst of air where you feel it leaking back out through the rag. (1-2 PSI at the most). This will pressure the suction system and allow for a second person looking for fresh leaking fuel that is wet at connectors, flex tubing and such. This will pressurize the system to the VP44 and the return line so check those too while your at it... Hmmm... Valve adjustment could be a issue... If you want to clean the injectors hook that truck to a trailer and find a steep hill and get the pyrometer up to about 1,000 to 1,100 and make her work for awhile. This will cook the tips clean. Being that all injectors are protected by the Edge filter inside the connector tubes... As for starting a Cummins without grid heater on a cold morning isn't a good thing in my mind... Like right now my grid heater are hooked up and I use then on the first start of the day if parked outside. After that I don't even bother... But once spring comes and I'm sure the <30*F weather is gone I disconnect mine and forget about them for the rest of the summer. Then in the fall I hook them up again... As for 0*F and colder weather I seen my truck nearly refuse to start on a single grid heater run... After two cycles it runs but still missing a beat or two for a few seconds... But thankfully enough this year we are seeing global warming (climate change)...

Head over to the VP44 error code list and read some of the diagnostic it might give a clue... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm

Well... Its possible it a bad tank of fuel or the station you buying form has poor filters at the pump. At least I buy fuel with confindence because I know the owner of my local store and understand when and what type of filters he uses on his pumps. But when I travel out and about I normal hit the bigger diesel places like flying J or simular with high volume of diesel traffic this insures the fuel is fresh and the pump filters are kept up to par. Stop in a quiet mom and pop place and take a risk for cheaper fuel...

I'm going to be totally honest and straight forward... Back in 2002 if you asked me about a Cummins diesel I would give you a weird look and go huh? Well all my knowledge is from read post on forum, asking questions, and talking to people. Now the web site started out really small back in 2003 with basically write ups of my BOMBs and common issues like gauges, and fuel pressure. By 2007 I bought my domain then added a forum and extend the web site even more. Now in the late 2009 I had to upgrade the server because of the amount of traffic. This web site is basically collection of information found on the internet that started out being just my personal notes then other had get idea or suggestion so they came forward and helped as well. As these new tidbits come, or I repair my truck, or other trucks, I've learned from past experiences. So as I do something new i learn from these experiences so I either update a current write up or I'll create a new write up. I'm not ASE certified... I did not go to college for this... But I'm be turning wrenches and doing repairs on my own vehicles since I was 15 years old. I still own my first vehicle which is a 1973 Dodge Charger SE. This is where is started from. Then led me down the rock bumpy road of visiting wrecking yards, part houses, talking to people, and learning. I never given up or quit I just kept going forward knowing one thing... "It worked before... It's broke now... So I can't hurt it any more that what it is!" always kept the logical mind about myself and kept going... Sorry to steal the thread...

I've seen brand new Carter pumps, Campaign Pumps, and yes even a Carter 4601 fail right out of the box... Make you sick to hook up a brand new pump and it performing worse than the one you just replaced! :banghead: Yes I've been here many of time and that is one of the reason I pushed for the AirDog and bit the bullet... So that's my view on it but doesn't mean its the right choice for you... I'm going to guess a WIF sensor??

Hmmm... That's odd... I'm running AirDog 150 with 2 micron filter and only change the filter once a year (30K miles). Even then I was only losing 3 PSI...