Mopar1973Man

Here is a tidbit of HP/TQ curves for the 12V... Simple method of explaining HP and TQ... HP is how fast you can make it to the wall. TQ is how far your going to take the wall with you...

That's up to you... But I'm going to crawl into bed with my stuff up beak... Sure sucks to catch a cold...

Geez... After all that I've been through with you... Geez... Your breaking my heart here... I see how I rate... The pump test was more important that the phone call... It's all good... You guys just keep piling on the problems and making me think even harder...:shocked2:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=bhaf Holy C__p! I got mine at $39.99... But still a good price compare to locally at $85

Now hold the K&N filter up to the light if you see light passing through it time to send it back to the part store... (99% of them are like this)These light holes are prefect holes to let dirt and dust pass through... Personally I won't touch them...

Ok... Then you covered your bases and the SG II is still at fault...

Well just playing I've seen a few time at 0.00 MPG displayed and watch the Today's MPG and the Total MPG fall like rocks off a cliff... :shocked2:

Like a few article I've read that a dirt filter can actually filter better than a clean one... But this is without distorting the filter or blowing it out...Like with the BHAF... That you can visually see sitting under the hood and can use the filter minder to monitor filter life. As with the stock filter housing its poor at best. Even with a new filter I found you need to grease the rubber seal to keep dirt and dust from leaking though... Why? Because over time the engine heat would allow the plastic box to distort and the seal would be compromised. So to fix this problem just put a bead of grease all the way around the rubber lip...Myself since I drive more dirt than paved roads it was best to switch to a BHAF...

With the fuel pressure gauge present try and keep the pressure up as much as possible... You might want to add a dose of 2 cycle oil, biodiesel or similar to protect the Vp44 during low pressure moments...

I know a lot of daily driver guys that don't do much more that drive it and add fuel work work awesome for them so the idea is valid...Another crazy way... Funny but true if you are really cheap and don't have time for any of the above... Can of WD40 does wonders too...

Did you try it in another vehicle to rule out the problem is your truck?

Just to be a wise arse...I just spin my filter on dry and bump the starter... AD 150 is nice because I don't have to mess with stock filter for a very long time... I kept my stock filter for the fuel heater and WIF sensor. Personally I'm not to fond of the stock filter system because its a great trap spot for air bubbles...

Valid idea... But comes up short though... Everytime you use jumper cables your eatting holes in the shellac and opening up fo new corrosion. So you would have to remember to coat the terminals again... The idea of the terminal coating in the spray can is basically colored grease. Around here jump cable are used a lot bailing people out.

I added my tidbit again... Because as for BC post is rather general and doesn't give important information... The only number he gives is the 5 PSI number... So what I can place my truck on a dyno and product max power at 5 PSI... But there is nothing said about max lifespan... Remember if he told the truth about that then he'd be out of a job...

In the same breathe he says "5 PSI is enough", but Bosch turns around and says " That diaphram damage is caused from low fuel pressure". Then your 5 PSI buddy mentions that if there is a "diaphram rupture" no one will warranty the pump!So is it worth the risk? (Personally No.)Has our 5 PSI buddy done any long testing of this? 100K, 200K, or 500K miles? (None documented as of yet!)

Sound like your lift pump is getting weak... Minimum lift pump ressure is 10 PSI... I'm going to garther your running stock fuel lines yet so I would suggest you think about a Big Line Kit From Vulcan Performance. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm

From what I've learn from the synthetic guys is that the synthetic oil tend to clean scrub away the parafin wax sludge build up and this causes the leaks to occur typical at a gasket or seal. So basically time to start replacing gaskets where there are leaks occuring. If you switch back to petroluem you might find the leak disappears over time...As for personal experience... I don't have any to speak off so Duluth Diesel or Crow Synthetic will have to speak up...

[ATTACH]516[/ATTACH]Check and see if the plastic hub falls out..Then you might talk to Racer Dan he's got a re-worked rotor that fits directly into the stock motor but doesn't have the plastic hub. Bit pricey but it a solid fix...

I was never very fond of the stock air filter box. The fact is the sealing abiliity of the box is poor at best. I seen several includding miy own leak dirt past the filter.As for the filter minder it does work well and is very sensitive to vacuum. But as for using a BHAF I've gone a long ways now without a need to change filters... 6 years now and 111K miles and still going... No dust in the tube, no movement of the filter minder, no problems...

Depends if I drive the highways to and from towns or go up in the mountain gather firewood... When on the pavement doing long haul is when I hit 20-21 but when I'm on the dirt road I can just forget about it... Climbing 25 miles from 1,800 feet elevation to 7,500 or 9,900 max elevation tends to eat fuel.... I don't see much over about 6-8 MPG on the SG II display... (Ugh!)

How about like this... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/crankcase-vent.htm

Hmmm... Geez I feel old listen to you too ramble on... October 26, 1970... Heading for 40!But I still play like a kid most days...

I'll be adding this to my download library very soon... Thanks for the good find...

Well you could disable the on board controller and add a new controller card...