Mopar1973Man

I'm in the same boat but... Alias my stock batteries from 2002 finally giving up...

Yeah that is rather old...http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm Or the latest high idle thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?t=977& http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?t=788&

Either pop the little thumb nuts out of the stock air box... Or build a heatshield and use 6 nuts... 3 below the plate to raise it up slightly and 3 on top to tighten it up. This way the studs are nearly flush with the heatshield. But still cover your A/C line with a piece of hose to protect it from rubbing...

You got air in the system... Once the fluid gets aerated it tends to foam up and expand. So this is kind of a long process but let it settle and fill it up again. Start it up and run the steering from lock to lock. Then Shutdown and check again... If foamy let it settle before adding. But you got to get the air out to get it stable again...

Comments in blue...

Gassernomore is right... You need to see 2 P Done's... This is a common issue on 2001 trucks for smoe reason. You should see both P-PCU and P-ECU...

Here is how to calibrate the SG II http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bombs/scangauge2/calibration/calibration.htm Now Setup the Xgauge to display the Gallons remaining... But remember you MUST fill the tank everytime to keep the SG II accurate... You don't need to change calibrate everytime but you must reset the SG II by going through the fillup process just don't change the settings...

Ummm... Well you might not in Florida... But here in Idaho its... Ummm... 25*F and falling might get down to about 10*F tonight...

ScanGauge doesn't report the MAP sensor properly... But is will show if the sensor is changing at best... The 98.5 to 02 are mis reported but the 2003 and up is correct....

Ok... I would consider the weather conditions and fuels... Being Veggie Oil will gel quickier I would be careful in cold country. The other factor is that Veggie Oil mixed in Diesel will seperate and settle to the bottom of the fuel in a gelled state. (Like bacon grease) The other problem is that Veggie oil in thicken state will cause strain on the injection pump. Then also might cause issues with injectors spraying the thicken fuel. (Poor performance) Just a few tidbit I heard about...

Not required with Biodiesel... You could but it not required with BioDiesel being it exceed the requirement by Bosch (<400 HFRR). B2 Bio is roughly 221 HFRR...

I got some steel puzzle toyz... But the funny part is like the rings and such I had gone though most of them in under a hour... Then the trapped satellite in a cage I figured that out in about 10 minutes... Mom though she had got me a toy I couldn't solve quick... LMAO... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123&stc=1&d=1261806029 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124&stc=1&d=1261806029

PM Dorkweed about his Blackstone labs results...

Ok... Simple the only controls for the cruise are in the steering wheel. But let me back up a second. Back in the old days the steering just had a horn 1 contact on a ring. Well today there is... [*]Cruise On/Off [*]Cruise Set [*]Resume [*]Coast [*]Canel [*]Horn [*]AirBag Trigger [*]Stereo Controls (Behind the steering wheel on some models) Now this mean there is no way to communicate all this on 1 wire. So that mean there is multi-wire strip that is wound up like a clock-spring in the steering shaft. There has been issues with the contact starting to show up on forums from wear and such. Then the clock springs have been know to fail over time too. Now as for the rest of the cruise system the PCM on the firewall controls this the early models used a vacuum module that pulls the throttle and the newer model are completely fly by wire now (electronic) the PCM just tells the ECM how fast to go... So back to failur points... Since you said... That means the controls or wiring to the PCM from the steering wheel are to blame... You might even check for error codes it might give a clue... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

Yeah he changes his filters main and bypass but still running the same old oil.

Dorkweed is serious... He's running a bypass filter and never change oil yet...

Ok it could be the rocker switch in the steeering wheel or the clock spring in the steering wheel...

The ECM doesn't have the function... No... Diesela

Well... M E R R Y - C H R I S T M A S What did you all get for christmas?? Any new toyz??

Most are moving over to like a AirDog 100/150 pump with a 2 micron filter to protect the fuel system but also the enhanced fuel volume helps with keeping it lubed up. But also looking at Bosch requirements on fuel lubricity is <400 HFRR... Most today fuel is averaged out at ~520 HFRR which is too dry...

Cover my tail again... Yeah he's right you need to try that to before doing serious changes...

Well since Christmas really is kind of late here... we plan on heading down to Boise, ID or Ontario, OR to go shopping for gifts and such after the holiday rush is over. Not to mention the weather and road conditions are nasty. I've been pricing out batteries so when I'm down there I'll most likely just pick up a pair of new batteries like Wally World or something...

Any error codes? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Might try re-grounding the APPS sensor... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=12

Actually no... One member donated the injectors (used) and another member donated the copper shims and O-rings!

That cool I never bothered to look at the climp very close... Maybe because I've never blown the fuse??? :confused: