Mopar1973Man

Just for information purpose... Hoesli Diesel Service 5716 E. Morgan Ave. Evansville, IN 47715 1-800-487-1001 (USA) 1-800-955-6384 (OUTSIDE USA) 812-473-5604 812-473-5611 (FAX) Email: hoedie@evansville.net http://www.hoeslidiesel.com/

Ok... back to stock and miss is GONE! I double checked everything and I got it done in nearly half the time as I did the first time... But I took the truck out and got it nice and warm and brought in back and it just purrs like it use to... Now I'm going to contact Idaho Diesel Tech after Christmas and see about getting these RV275 popped test and fixed up...

As for replace skins I've got no info... But as for prevention of this problem is rather simple. I normal take my time and wash either about the truck doors, door jambs, etc. Make sure you spray some water up through the drain holes to rinse any mud or debris out. Then in the salt area I hear people using waste engine oil in a bug sprayer and hosing down the inside of the door with waste engine oil. Just the bottom half.

Sounds good but I truely wonder if its just another Obama speech... Saying anything to get the reaction but when it comes time then do the direct opposite... :confused: I truely given up on our government system... I've been working with local Idaho government on trying to help the fire dept get a piece of land and then after 1 year of jumping through hoop and loops find out you still don't have the land and being lied too by all the government and they seem to be enjoying it too...

Sorry about that but when I changed over to the VBulletin the links died... Thanks ISX for covering that for me...:shades:

Here is my piece meal write up of the gasser starter I did for contacts... Rather easy and quick to do... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?p=4286#post4286 I split the thread so we are not hijacking the OP's thread...

Well like I said I found a local place here in Idaho that will to pop test them for cheap. As a matter of fact I can round it into a shopping trip and make it worth while. As for parts I might have to talk to him about that. Well I got to admit I'm green to doing injectors... I read tons of article but this is my first...

Now that something to look at...:eek: I never knew that... wow! I learned something new! :thumbsup:

Sorry Russ... What I meant was the the tension on the nut will take quite a bit to twist even with the screw gun or drill but after a few seasons of working the nut on and off the nyloc will start to loosen up to the point that it won't rattle loose but you can about take it off with your fingers. (assuming myself). Once again I'd should of known better...

True... APPS and TPS are the same in general function but the name changed so you could tell the difference in parts... (Best guess...) Smiley's... I got too many now...

No they won't fit that the problem Geno's sells the 94-98 series but it seem that the 24V 98.5 to 02 is hard to find (either series early or late).

Give him some time because he's out in the back country right now working on a Cattle ranch. There trying to move cows before the snow close the roads up... I normally stay in contact with him quite well... I know he's going to call me as soon as he gets home being his starter contact are gone...

GW... No ball busting here but trying to stir the pot... I guess I did...

Well as for the smoke cold thatis normal even my truck does that with the Edge Comp cranked up in the mornings... Then if I leave quickly without much warm up it rattles to beat all. (timming rattle).

OK gang... I've been busy working the site and now all the documents are up in the download area... But here is the catch you got to have experience points (which I want to rename). To download the files or documents... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php So now you got to visit the Experience Shop and buy the files... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/xperience.php?go=shop

Maybe not the first few times but after a few winters you can almost twist it with you bare hands...

Ok... So I did so calling around and found a diesel shop in Lewiston, ID that willing to pop test these injectors for a few bucks a piece. But he's swapped right now and won't be available till after the holidays... so I got to put my stock back in for now maybe there is hope...:confused2:

Well I got the connector tube polished up and scratch is gone and so is the leak but the miss is still there... So I'm going to pull these back out and take a downgrade back to stock... Well I got to admit the power is great but the miss sounds nasty like a old Chevy gasser with bad spark plugs... Back to stock here I come...

P0622 Generator Field Not Switching Properly An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit This is caused by either a wiring issue or bad brushes in the alternator. It best to have the alternator removed and bech tested. Then if the alternator failed then just rebuild it... P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Ctrl Circuit Current state of solenoid output port is different than expected (4-speed auto. trans. only).Well I can't answer that one too good but i'm sure some our trans gurus will be able to help ya...

No pull from a running vehicle and the O-rings and copper shim replaced... CajFlynn donated the injectors to me... Then another member donated the coppers shims and O-rings (can't remember the name now) As for this morning I went out and fired up the truck and it fired up just fine but still a random miss and #1 tube in leaking fuel... so I'm going to see about polishing the scratch out that I put in the #1 connector tube... If that doesn't work then I'll buy a new tube I guess...

Here is a few pics from the job... Quick easy way to pull injectors using a intake bolt and a claw hammer you can also pry up using a screwdriver which up got to do for 5 & 6. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=179 Here is my stock injectors after 159K miles and 75K miles of 2 cycle oil. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=178 The engine area all cleared out. APPS sensor, Air intake, Grid heaters, and injection lines. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=177

Might be true but I'm still without a list to define your codes to verify them or to give more diagnostic information. Sorry!

Well... I pulled both batteries out and charged both at 10 Amps for several hours to stir the electrolyte back up. Then gave the battery cases a wash in mineral spirit (degreaser) to remove the grime and gunk. Cleaned the terminals on the batteries and the cables. Stuck them back in the truck 12.8 Volts shown at rest. Key off. Short time later 12.5 Votls at rest. So I'm going to assume there is a dieing battery cell and the batteries are finally getting tried of cranking up this monster. Funny part is that during my re-prime process for my injector install the batteries held up fine. :confused: Cold charging volts is about 14.2 to 14.3 but warm then it drop to 13.9 to 14.0 but now its at least stable for the time.... Very well possible a bad cell is the cause of the unusual charging voltage.

Yeah they do... http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3907766S

Wild and free is refering to Centinel... https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/qsol/products/newparts/centinel.html