Mopar1973Man

Double check the wiring from the cam sensor to the ECM and verify the connection is good.

Hmmm... I'm just a lucky one I guess I'm still running stock OEM parts on both front and rear axle with out a problem yet... :confused: Moog is a good brand for tie rod ends... So you did good there... :thumbsup So for the ball joints I would look for Moog's as well for them too. I know its going to be spendy but there good. As for the steering stabilizer I would look toward Rancho's for that shock. So far I'm in love with them for shock... Opps! I did change shocks at 140K miles... Now talk to Dorkweed he's got a steering brace for his 3rd Gen and he's says its day and night difference... 8| viewtopic.php?f=42&t=344

Try a wrecking yard and see if you can get a 2002 drain plug you'll love it... :thumbsup

BHAF tend to work great... I've got a BHAF on my 02 that is over 10K miles and 5 years old and the filter minder has never moved. I spray the intake tube with WD40 to check for dirt/dust but never do I find any when I wipe the tube out at the next oil change. BHAF sell for about $40 at VulcanPerformance.com you also can pick up a Outerwears to extend the life of the filter too. The nice part is you never oil it, wash it, blow it off with compressed air, vacuum it, or anything... It just works... As for adding the filter minder you just need to drill a hole in the end of the filter and use you filter minder and rubber grommet...

I would tap the ECM lead and find out what the voltage is to ECM. While the DVM is tapped to the lead and your watching the voltage twist the sensors slightly up or down to adjust the voltage. It does help to have the screw semi-snug. When you hit your mark lock the screw down tight watching the voltage. You done...

Well the CHECK ENGINE light is the first thing... I would dump the error codes and see whats going on... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm With the stumble it could be a lot of thing but the error codes will give a clue to whats going on... The second thing is I would find out the fuel pressure to be safe... You should have at least 10 PSI at all times to be safe...

I personally like to see a few extra pound of pressure more that the overflow valve trip point. This means that there is extra fuel flowing through the pump for sure cooling it... Not to mention it gives a wider range of pressure from the minimum limit of 10 PSI... So if I'm at 18 PSI that means I got 8 PSI worth of room... Where you only got 3 PSI worth of room but with the 18 PSI you know the overflow valve is open for sure and flowing...

Naw... Go for it... The AirDog pump can go way up to 20-25 PSI easily... Just for kicks and giggles I grabbed the return line and kinked it to see what it would do... I buried my 30 PSI fuel pressure gauge quickly... So the AirDog pump is capable of really high pressures. But if you use you head and keep the fuel prtessure between 10-20 PSI your total safe. I'll have to grab a short video of my new pressures... ;)

Well I found a way to adjust the fuel pressure upwards on my truck. I started out with 16-17 PSI when I first installed it nearly a year ago. But now the pressure slipped down to about 14-15 PSI. I had some time on my hands a found a way to adjust the fuel pressure. Adjusting Shim... I was digging around the shop and found a exactly prefect fitting washer that doesn't interfer with fuel flow and fits inside the pump. Its a cheap 5/16" flat washer but you going to need to match it up against the fitting to bet sure it not blocking the hole nor too large for the fitting. This is stuffed back in behind the return line fitting. Order of install... Ball, Spring, Washer, Fitting... Now I started out with 3 thinking there thin... OMG! 25 PSI... Pull one out 22 PSI... Pull another one out... 18 PSI... I happy again... ;)

Hmmm... I hate to say it but my drain plug is way different then... I got a square dimple that fits 3/8" ratchet. No socket required. :confused: Why don't you consider a Frantz Filter then... The filter media is cheap being its toilet paper rolls... It works good... :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/frantz-filter/frantz-filter.htm

Your wish is my command... (POOF!) :wow http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm (Bottom of the page)

Marvel Mystery Oil... One of the poorly rank ones...

I don't remember the size of the grommet but the hole is bigger than a 1/2" drill bit...

Usually 100*F worth of IAT and MPGs will climb... Warmer the better... :confused:

Yeap... you use the rubber grommet and the filter minder from the stock air box... As for the needle valve you barely crack it open... :thumbsup

I know that truck doesn't work for a living... 8| LOL

Take a look at this truck its happens to be the cleanest truck I've seen with only 40K mies... :wow http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.j ... 5665272112

I go to my local Cummins/John Deere shop and get my oil and fuel filters for cheap... Fuel filter was always $12 bucks and oil filters were $8 bucks. Both are fleetguard... ;) For my AirDog 150 the fleetguard filter from Dieselmanor is $9 bucks for 2 micron fleetguard... 8|

I actual got a pic of a filter at 12K miles and what it looked like with a sample of fuel...

Hmmm... :confused: A/C Modes in a 2002... MAX A/C A/C Bi-Level Floor-Def Def NON-A/C Vent Floor

I would check the control panel for good connection. Sound like a wiring issue... Maybe the HVAC controls are wore out? :confused:

Wow! That just crazy... Well if I got my butt in gear and followed your steps I could actually extend out my oil changes from the 6K the dealer had me at to my current 7.5K. Then bump up to 10K without thinking about it... ;)

Dr. P... That consider a poor programmer... As fr the TST I'm clueless... :confused:

This post is rather old and I'm sorry the pics are gone again but the Slealth plate allows you to tap the wire without cutting it. It makes a weather tight connection that never goes bad. Not to mention will not void your warrnaty by most shops... Plate shown here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/edge-comp/edge-comp.htm

Yeap... But remember bare aluminum will darken and turn black on you... So if there is polished aluminum on your engine I highly suggest you don't get any on it...