Mopar1973Man

Well the jobs here are getting cleaned up and only got 2 left to finish in less than 2 weeks time. 1996 Chevy Pickup with a oil cooler hose blown 1987 Chevy 454 powered motor-home to finish up with fluid changes and fixing things. Now on the flip side I got smart and fired up a NAPA ProLink Account. Already tested it out and I can place an order for parts and have them sitting and waiting for me. Being I'll be back and forth to McCall on a daily routine I'd figure that would be a much better option. Like my first order was front drive shaft u-joints and ran up this morning to get them and install. Smooth no sitting on the phone trying to find the right parts. Now I can look at them and match up in real time and save a bunch of headache.

Not always but some PSG issues on the VP44 will show up without codes sometimes. White smoke is a timing issues there should be error codes present... P0216, or P1689, or P1688... If your got over 100k to 150k on the current injectors you might think of getting tested or replaced.

Look for the VOID sticker on the VP44 electric connector if the stick is still there and not torn then yes its the OEM pump from the factory. Grid heat has been sticking on. Hence the burnt appearance of the coating on the intake. Lift pump is a factory location but hard to tell if its been changed or not. But still in all you need to test the fuel pressure. 14 to 20 PSI is optimal. Stock is 10 to 14 PSI. Marginal... But I seriously doubt that pump is still going strong. Need to to the crankcase vent mod... Then do the W-T ground wire mod...

Still that about the only time I've seen coolant getting burnt carbon back into the cooling system but never lost coolant which was weird. As for Dodge never seen it yet with EGR leaks (coolant vs. exhaust). Still in all pressurize the coolant system would push coolant out of its leak. Like my first head gasket did always leak on the floor being block was hot enough to dry up before the floor. As in my 1996 Dodge never leaked on the floor either but was leaking from the intake manifold gasket and drying up before hitting the floor. In both cases the pressure tester after pumping pressure into cooling system cold made it show the leak in both cases.

Yeah the terminals are oxidized and should be replaced. Nice truck. You'll enjoy the flatbed kind of like me and the 2006 with a flatbed.

Actually working for one person will be nice. I can set up once and continue working. It will be nice not working at home and leaving the job in McCall. As for the website I still want to do more. Still working on errors and server issues. When I get free time I've got more to do. I "promise" I won't lose focus for all your guys. I want to keep the website going. Right now I've just got to get stable and not doing good for one month then doing weak next month. With all I've invested in the 2006 I need to pay back loans to the website. Just like picking up a Lincoln wire feed welder. Then the injectors on "Thor" and the dual disc clutch on "Thor". Just this job insures this can be paid back to the website. Yeah I know it a business investment, but I like to pay the business back.

Usually in Fords the EGR cooler will leak soot into the coolant. The coolant gets a burnt smell. I think it would be the same on a Dodge.

Been here... Sucks driving like that at times...

Test the power lead pin to ground on ohms of the DVM.

Most the body bolts I deal with I will soak with PB blaster and then hit it with a impact gun and 90% of the time they come right out. There is a few time where I used a breaker bar and cheater pipe to get it started or broke loose and then return back to the impact gun. Very small percentage have I broke a bolt and had to EZ out it...

Cutting out isn't normal... Any error codes? What your fuel pressure like as well? Even my setup with the Quadzilla and the 7 x 0.010 injectors with warm up mode I'm limited to 80% stock fuel but I can use full WOT throttle without cutting out or loss of power for the most part. Just out of thought I would consider the PSG on the VP44 is problem at this point being as it warms up the problem leaves. Sad to say you'll end up replacing the VP44 to get a new PSG. The only thing I can think of mechanical is the injectors but typically it creates a misfire as it warms up typically. Your is doing it till it warms up.

I know the cost is much higher but sometimes it best to just replace the entire control arms as a set with new bushing already installed in the arms. Yeah I know you still gotta get the old bolts out but but trying to press new joints in and old ones out. Sometimes the peace of mind is being able ot pay for arm with bushings already. I'm in your shoes this time going to do Thor's driver side top control arm and the bushing at the cab. Time to break out my new battery powered impact guns.

First trip to there shop was back at 350k miles roughly. I blew the back of the head gasket for the coolant jacket. It cost me $2,100 for 18 of the 24 valve guide, valve seat ground to spec again. This trip 431k miles, I blew the head gasket on the front driver corner leaking oil. I was only $425 to straight out the head that 0.006 of warp. New set of valve seals. Ron and Justin are wonderful people to deal with and prompt on getting the job done. Both trips it was a mere 3 days as quoted. I would use Northwest Machine for my future rebuild of the engine as well.

Hence why my set up is on the fender for this exact reason... Now I can unscrew the fuel pressure sender add a tee and hook up my test gauge and my sender back and then go for ride and test the a-pillar gauge in real time without the fuss or mess. I've even got all the fitting for any system I've got to tie into... As for my protection its... Tap point in-between the VP44 and the stock fuel filter. Needle valve for emergency shut down of fuel in this plumbing then a snubber. I used PTC (push to connect) fittings. Then 5 feet of 1/8 inch air brake line the over to my relocation bracket and sensor is last. After the needle valve you'll see a brass fitting that is the snubber (sinstered metal).

I chose Northwest Motor Machine Northwest Motor Machine 4218 Dearborn St, Caldwell, ID 83605 (208) 453-1292 https://northwestmotormachine.com/ These guys work mostly with Cummins engines. Matter of fact they are looking for core engines they are short on Common Rail cores right now.

look close I did the replacement of the flexplate on this 97 Ford F250 7.3L diesel. Pulled driveline, transfer case, and transmission in the gravel in North Riggins. My shop has my 2002 in it currently. I would of been in the dirt at my place too. So I did it on site at the owners place.

$85 an hour and all travel is paid for. No time limits and they will handle all parts and supplies I need. If I need any special tools they will handle it for me. All I've got to do is ask. I've seen some of the toys. The owner has 8 personal jets and I missed the fly over I left to early. Dune Buggy, wave runners, snowmobiles, tractor, etc plenty to work on. I've been hired on as a "FULL TIME" mechanic for the property. What was the selling edge was this website. The fact I've been dealing with 2,500 people day and 60,000 a month. I was showing "Neal" the property manager stats from the website and my client base. At that point pretty much sold myself being how many people in the area let alone the world could have a website showing all my exploits. Hmmm? I'll be paid $85 an hour for all work. Then on top of that I will be paid for my travel back and forth to work. Neal said to toss an extra hour to my time sheet for travel. Heck its only a $100 to fill Thor once a week. I've got to say thank you to Andrew and his wife for talking to Neal and getting me a chance at this awesome job. So today I've got wheel joints to do on Thor, Control arm bushing to replace, and valve cover o-ring I managed to screw up when I did the valve lash adjustment. Then out on the yard I've got my 8 foot long tool boxes for both side of the bed on Thor. I've got 2 weeks to clean up the truck, clear my work load and be ready to work at McCall. As for Neal he's a rough looking individual. Kind of loud way he talks but you can tell he's got a very caring heart. Like I told him I'm not the type to try to rush through for time schedules I prefer to take my time and do the job right. This comment I uttered and Neal agreed on. Like Neal told me do my job safely and take my time and do it right. Like one toy I was looking at was a full track snow toy (not sure of the name yet). 2 cycle gas engine been standing for many years and now the owner wants it up and running. It got exhaust leaks and not running right with low compression (possibly sticky rings). I wish I would of got photos of the property it inside McCall city limits. 104 acres, with private air strip. My buddy Andrew and his family take care of the 104 acres of land with landscaping. Andrews son AJ was try to help out with the mechanical stuff but he's a young pup yet. This goes beyond doing simple oil changes and greasing stuff.

I've got awesome news. I've been doing some thinking. I've got a buddy that works for a single billionaire doing all the landscaping for his 104 acre property. Well after a bit of talking to my buddy about a week later I ended up with a job interview with the property manager. Needless to say I aced the interview. I've been given 2 weeks to get my truck in order and finish my other jobs. I've already bought 2 toolboxes for Thor. My job for the owner will to be to maintain all vehicles and equipment for the owner. This includes ATVs, tractors, lawn mowers, any vehicles left on the property. The property manager wants me fully mobile and he'll pay for fuel and travel.

Four bolts under the center seat. I think 10mm IIRC.

Let the truck cool down completely over night. Now take a coolant pressure tester and pump the system up to 16 PSI and let it sit come back in 30 minutes and look for the coolant either on the floor or in the cab.

Short is in the transmission. Time to pull the pan.

All of my gauges share the same ground. In both the 2002 and 2006 trucks.

Check control arm bushings and track bar. Track bar should move at all when steering back and forth. Control arms should wiggle or move. Like my 06 has the driver side control arm with a bad bushing. It pops or clunk when turning feel otherwise the floor.

Slushbox... yuk... 4 pedals is much better.

Yeah the biggest thing is making sure the cable are not binding and you have enough pull to hold it tight. Like my truck (2002) I'm at the end of my slack adjustment to make it hold this tells me the cables are stretched. Now on the (2006) the driver side cable bound up and crushed the outer jacket pulling the brake. No good and no holding power.