Mopar1973Man

Yeah commonly people have a 1 to 2 inch leveling kit and it causes the axle to be pushed down more so that tend to make the caster more neutral so the wondering is more pronounced. I've got a 2005 sitting here with a 3 inch kit and wonders bad. Then I've got my 2006 Dodge with 2 inch leveling kit it wonders as well. Both have little to zero caster and over sized tires. Makes it even worse. But hey this what I see come and go through my shop. Just remember if you use a lift kit you not lifting off the axle but pushing the axle down if the lift is too much then it can pull the axle to the driver side because the track bar is now too short. (Thrust angle error) Then with the downward travel the axle rotates forward and makes the caster neutral. Hence the steering issue most lifted truck deal with. (caster angle error)

ECM and PCM are both fried. Start with sending them both out for repair. Then pull the entire harness out and send it to Auto Computer Specialist and they do full wiring harness repairs. The external regulator is a sign you fried the blue wire with a short fried the PCM voltage regulator. I do have a fix to prevent that. Then as for the ECM you need to do a new alternator and the W-T ground wire mod. This will protect the ECM from frying. You WTS light issues stems from excessive AC noise and burned the ECM up. So all you did to remove the VP44 because of electronics you still got shot in the foot. I still recommend to ditch the P-pump and return to a VP44 becuase they have way better street manners. Way better diagnostics and power to be made vs a static timed pump. Still in all you nedd ECM, PCM and the wiring fixed. All came be done through Auto Computer Specialist. The VP44 world we can make some serious power with the Quadzilla and VP44 pumps. No smoke and all pure power. I'm roughly 500 HP and leaving 3rd gear with stock fuel (Quad Timing only Level 2) I can break the tires loose in the 3rd on dry pavement. Still little low in MPG but 18 to 19 MPG is shabby. Got a new idea for a new fuel map. When your tuning from your phone vs a tool box... Something a p-pump cant do without HOUR of tool time and setting plunger lift but still no dynamic timing. I typically cruise at 19° t o 21° at 2,000 RPM.

Warm up mode needs to be ON as well as the high idle delay time ON. I just did a demo here yesterday of that feature and it work like normal. I can switch to level 0 and it runs forever until throttle is seen or movement.

Ahhh... yeah that would do it.

Yup drop the Quad in and im going and doing some new testing myself more for MPG purpose. I've got a different idea for the fuel map.

Or you have a lift kit without adjustable track bar will do the same thing.

Yeah I had the check valve fall out on me while doing a customers rig. I at least seen it fall was able to see where it went. His the came apart super easy.

Damn! That looks COLD! (Brrrr!)

Gotta ask how did you tighten the injectors? Crossover tubes first then the hold downs on top of the injectors. You could have a crossover tube not sealing.

Skip the DEFAULT tune it won't fit. If your true stock maybe it would work OK. You upgrade injectors, turbo, and few other items so now the default tune would work but not optimally. Personally since most of the performance is in the timing I would start there. Run level 2 without CANBus fuel or Wiretap then you can build the the defuel curve to control launching smoke. I'm 7 x 0.010 and start my fuel curve at 80% for most everything. Like economy tune doesn't reach stock 100% level till 14 PSI. Then at the 30+ PSI position I'm only 123% over. (Beside the point). You need to focus and get the timing good for just your stock fuel. Right now I'm 13.0, 17.5, 22.0, 26,5 Max 27.0 That is max timing. I would twist this down to a +4 step. 13, 17, 21, 25. This will be better fit for timing. It will have good launching power. You light throttle timing advance would be +2 to above so 17 +2 will make 19 degrees for cruise timing. Low pressure timing reduct 2.5 with the scaling at 40%. Currently I did it yesterday on dry pavement pulled up 3rd gear and rolled into the power and rear tires let go instantly. (full wire tap - I know the timing for my setup is wicked). Max Load Timing Offset is 1 degree. Fuel curve you can build at any time dear but for you in "Commie Fornia" you better start on level 2 and get timing and stock fuel looking good then work up. Suggestion for staying clean. Measure your normal cruise boost level, then watch your rolling hills throttle, you want your wire tap above that. Like my normal cruise is like 5 PSI. Then mild grades and rolling hills I can hit 10 to 15 PSI. After 15 PSI the wire tap starts. The give great stability to running in snow as well without the sudden shock of the wire tap as when set lower also when it comes on the turbo is spooled so it just cleanly continues to eat while creating new smoke off the tires. Two things to watch for shuddering is a sign of over advanced timing. When it sound flat and quiet your retarded in timing too far. When making changes its best to run a full tank through and see how it impacts the MPG number which is the best method to verifying if your gaining or losing performance to fuel. This is a +4.5 degree step might be too wide for your setup. Again start with 13 degrees and step up only +4.0. This should fit you well.

Basically the ECM is shot and will require to be pull and tested and repaired. The articles above are to prevent future failures or testing for conditions that might cause a failure. Sine your ECM has failed your going to need to repair it first but you not going to want to install a ECM to possible bad condition that might cause it to fail again in short time. Basically in a nutshell AC noise is really hard on electronics the AC pulses force apon thing like digital chips and other part that ain the family of diodes and transistors will take damage fairly quick. When the polarity swap back and forth this creates heat on these parts and hence the failure.

That's why I love being here in the forest of Idaho less BS. Less crowds. Less problems. Most city folk can't handle the life out here. I've got my weapons, food, self contained power and water. Do not require city services at all. Like this morning its snowing in McCall and something happened and the power went out briefly. The inverter kicked in instantly and still here at the computer. Even got fuel (gasoline and diesel) on the property nothing is going to slow me down much. I don't expect much to happen out here but watching the bigger cities like Los Angeles, CA fall apart...

Then my 3 articles about this topic.

Already strike one with the wait start light. Strike two with the WOT after starting. I'm betting you have not done the W-T ground wire mod? Then I'm also betting your alternator has excessive AC noise issues?

I've got plenty of weapons, Thank You...

Turns on the blue wire and green both with tach signal. I'm going to bet your alternator shorted out the blue lead like mine did and fried the PCM. The PCM is protected by a 20 amp fuse and the circuit board can't handle the full 20 amp short. The PCM circuit board burns up. Mine was so bad the fiberglass burn away (physical hole in the board) there was nothing to fix. Still going to need to have the PCM tested and repaired. (Thumb nail is a picture of another members damage!) I did create a fix for protecting that so it never happens again.

Gotta ask a few questions? Does the WAIT TO START light come on instantly? Does it still do it with the Edge Comp removed? What does the live data tool show the TPS value to be with just the key on? Does the TPS show normal reaction without the engine running?

This is what the scientist wear to protect themselves from COVID-19... But hey your little cloth mask will do just fine.

Happy New Years to all the family here... The only thing that has me seriously worried is the simple fact Biden is coming into office and he's not all mentally there up stairs and a few fries short of a "Happy Meal".

Head bolt tightening after you do the first lap around its super simple to keep track. Starting from the center and working in a circular pattern growing larger with each pass. I've gotten to the point I do this with about everything. Exhaust manifolds same thing start in the center work your way out.

Just remember that your battery life span will be greatly shortened. The old school voltage regulators like your one wire and the old school Mopar Voltage Regulator does not monitor battery temperature so it really easy to have that alternator boil the electrolytes out of the battery. At least the Mopar Regulator does have some temperature regulation but all depends on the under hood temperature for the voltage supplied. I would suggest getting back to the PCM if possible. Battery temp sensor does actually does a great job of preventing battery from boiling or loss of electrolyte.

Well last few I've picked up from HF. Don't do any plastic creepers mine was only rated for 230 pounds at the time I killed the plastic one I just crossed over 240 pounds. I've got another one from HF which is steel framed and padded back board with tilt head rest, not bad. Part that sucks is it seems to be always falling apart screws and bolts loosening up.

Out here the whole mask this is optional. Go to any bigger town or city like McCall, Boise, etc. All required masks. Still see many people without mask being worn.

Not so much the air flow but the washing rains.

Stay up and played AD&D with @Jthor and @Wet Vette last night lasted to about 10pm then started to fall asleep.