Mopar1973Man

I pull the fuel drain off of my landlord truck. (Other Shop). I used a T15 and just pull it off and change the 2 o-rings in the valve. Re-assembled and installed again just cost me about 10 minutes and 2 o-rings from my A/C stuff.

Just gotta smell the sweet smell and know that the heater core is done. If the glass is fogging the glass then you for sure have a bad heater core.

Yeah... I've destroyed my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon from lifting and oversized tires. Even since I figured it all out now. I get plenty of chances of driving other peoples truck most all of them with lifts and oversized tires have issues with lane centering and darting issues just like this 2005. Hence the owner brought to my shop because he's burned up two steering box in a very short time I found out. Like my 2006 Dodge is on 18 wheels (275/70 R18 - 33 inch tires) even this truck has a 2 inch leveling kit too, and this truck doesn't hold center good, darty and lack lane centering the last time I drove the truck. I'm going to ditch those 18 inch wheels find some stock 17 inch wheel and pull the leveling kit out as well. I plan on making that 2006 into my service truck and tow rig. If I get a job where I might travel to say @JAG1 place with the RV towed to his place and then have all the tools on the truck I could do about anything then.

Again Quadzilla Tip. Figure your max timing out first. Then stack your cruise timing on top. Figure like I do in the winter time with high cetane I've got to back off the timing since the fuel lights super easy. Here is what I would suggest. This is a +4° step timing starting at 13°. 1,500 RPM - 13° 2,000 RPM - 17° 2,500 RPM - 21° 3,000 RPM - 25° Now figure your cruise timing on top. Set your Light throttle Timing Adv. for +2° will give you 19° at 2k RPM. 1,500 RPM - 13° +2 = 15° 2,000 RPM - 17° +2 = 19° 2,500 RPM - 21° +2 = 23° 3,000 RPM - 25° +2 = 27° As for the cruise timing for load value I usually watch my flat ground engine load at 65 MPH cruise set and then maybe at the most add 2% on top. I float about 19% to 20% engine load right now. Add the +2 to that and now the cruise limit is 22% then it drops to the load based timing. This should get you started...

So... What happened I bought a Blue Top (Quick Ratio) Steering box. So fast forward to about year later the output shaft seal started to leak. I ask Ryan to send me a seal kit for it. Took the pitman arm off and pull the output shaft out. Once I got the shaft out I notice a small ding in the shaft right at the seal line. During this time I was still running @MoparMomto dialysis. I figured if the leak came back up again I would call Ryan. The problem returns again... I called Ryan and explain what was going on. He warranty the pump for me. Needless to say it took 2 week for a large flat rate box to ship from Idaho to North Dakota. Then Ryan only took a few moments to fix the pump and get it back in the mail. Then problem is again taking another 2 weeks for his flat box to come back 1 month of waiting for mail. So yes mine was a PITA. As for the one I'm currently working on is a 2005 Dodge with 35 inch tires and wiped out the steering box. Not to mention this same truck needs a set of injectors.

Only thing is the oil will rot rubber parts. Be careful about rubber things like sway bar mounts, etc.

I'm sure enjoying the fact that I'm no longer driving 1,100 miles a week. Yeah I'm stuck driving either to Lewiston or Ontario for most stuff. Local stores have gone up in prices. Even fuel price in the valley is high. So we attempt to round up every ones shopping list and make a full day of getting supplies about every other week. Yeah it was nice when I was running @MoparMomback and forth I could do shopping and part gather every other day. (Tues, Thurs, Sat.).

Seems to be my garage today... I get to lay in the snow and pull a steering box off a 3rd Gen truck for Ryan @Blue-Top Steering. I don't want to commit my shop to a vehicle that I gotta wait for parts to be ship in for rebuild and then ship back for install. Mine just getting my steering box sent back to Ryan and fix under warranty it still took one month for turn around time. So, off to work I go with about 6 inches of snow on the ground.

Like fuel prices out here are about $2.709 for diesel. On my last trip to Lewiston, ID I saw $2.409 at the Indian reservation. Good price then drop into Lewiston its $2.559.

Talk to @Me78569 he's already done the stand alone controller for VGT turbo and made it all work on a 2nd Gen 24V engine actually reading the ECM through the CANBus plug. Exhaust brake and and full control of the vanes.

Touche` Just like you I've gotta duct tape your hands to the chair arms. If you let this man loose near my bolt pile he will make sure the entire can of bolts is stuffed in his charge air pipe. @JAG1would pick up a bolt and ask "where does this go?" the proceed to drop it and of course doesn't make it to the floor. After several moments of hunting I found the bolt in the intercooler on the drivers side.

Start at about 19° @ 2k RPM in cruise state. As for cetane, higher the cetane the lower the BTUs. Lower the cetane the higher the BTUs.

The WIF sensor / WIF plug is sensitive to just the water touching the contacts. All you got to do is blow it dry and push dielectric grease into the plug.

Back in the day I found that if you want to get good MPG you had to limit your speed to about 55 MPH. Above that the engine load was too high and stripped off the cruise timing. Being the Edge Comp basically adds timing on top of stock. With the Quadzilla you set all your timing yourself. Just like I'm finding out on level 2 your completely stock fuel (limited to 100%). Now any and efficiency is based on timing. Just "close" timing should get you to the 19-20 MPG range with winterized fuel.

Ummm... @Wet Vette is right now on the floor with Ruby and she already is getting the concept of fetching a tennis ball. She runs after it and brings it back a few times but she is already chasing a tennis ball on the living room floor.

Yup. Zero smoke emission.

Same here I would rather force clean grease in and push the dirty grease out. Be careful that you don't ruin the boots on the tie rods and track bar pushing grease out. You don't want to create a hole that water and grit can enter.

Called lazy loading. This delays the photo to the last second. This is so the page renders quickly but if a photo is in the veiw window then it loads the photo last. All other photos not in the view area those are not loaded till you scroll over them. Then it loads the photos to the page when needed. Instead of burning massive bandwidth to render a long page. This way the pages load faster and only burn what is needed for that viewing position of the browser.

I would have to say more so Cummins. Still in all the mechanical pump did poorly for volume. Here is the article on the mechanical pump and how poor they are... http://www.torkteknology.com/technical-article-1-cummins-lift-pump/ Hence why most pull the mechanic pump off and install a FASS or AirDog with increase pressure spring for the P-pump requirements. Kind of hard to compare stock Cummins lift pump of mere 2.36 GPM (calc) or 0.44 GPM (actual) to AirDog or FASS at 150 GPH (2.5 GPM actual)

Being away from people is super simple for us here. I'm 15 miles from Riggins, ID and 20 miles from New Meadows, ID. Now being out here and working from home makes it better again don't have to mess with people. Now so far like yesterday I stopped in my buddies shop to have my tires rebalanced on the Cummins. Steve has been through the COVID-19 also his wife and son all went through the infection he told me is like a nasty chest cold and flu. 2 weeks later he's doing good. Steve never had any hospital stay either. Eileen's @Wet Vette daughter (Jessica) had got the COVID-19 as well again like a nasty flu bug. Jessica's ex-husband that was caring for there son they both got it too. Again after 2 week they done and over it. I will admit she was spooked a few times with breathing problems and every time the hospital sent her home again. She was was check for fluid on the lungs but she never stayed in the hospital. Now around home, I never wear a mask even in Riggins ID. No need. But in McCall ID mask is required. Lewiston ID mask is required. Boise mask is required Required. Ontario, OR mask is required. I just do the basics, keep my distance from people, wear a mask while in larger crowds, and wash your hands.

With winterized fuels this winter I'm been floating about 18 MPG. Dec 29 - 18.11 MPG Dec 26 - 18.29 MPG

Just at idle in park or neutral and 8 to 10% is good yet. When it hits zero engine load and the RPM is higher than 800 RPM. Your injectors are done.

I'm like yourself I prefer grease-able parts. Not like I'm going to jump through hoops for it though. My ball joints are only upper grease-able but since I've never ran oversized tires I'm up to 200k miles and counting on this set of ball joints. U-joints are another story being the bearing cup typically fail to water / salt failure for me by spring I will of wiped out at least one u-joint in the rear shaft. Carrier bearing on my truck was more so the rubber failing and the shaft had one bad joint adding excessive vibration to the cab. I looked at this way it already cover like 200k miles back when I changed the carrier bearing last time. With all the salt and water I'm going to be look at changing again soon. Like my front wheel joints (U-Joints for the axle) I changed the first set at 350k miles. The problem was it took over 60 tons of pressure to break the caps free on the passenger side shaft. The driver side shaft took me 4 hours of beating on the caps to remove them. I learned even if the part is still good at hundreds of thousand miles later it might be a good though to just replace it because it will be well rusted and locked in place and nearly impossible to remove. Just consider I do brake jobs every +200k miles. No joke, not a typo either... Everything on my truck typically last a good long time.

We were all sitting around the bedroom last night. (Breck and Jacob, then Eileen and myself) and talking about the pup we see small amounts of the Border Collie. Mostly the Chocolate lab in this pup. She is extremely smart. She is only 7 weeks old and already whining to go out but not quite understand to go to the door yet. Getting there. She is about half and half to respond to her name. More so whistle she comes. It's time for a new pup anyways I' lost Diesel two years ago. I see a very intelligent dog that is going to be sucker for water. Opps there is a about 2,000 gallon pond out back I'm sure as that dog grows up and spring gets here we will have troubles keep her dry. Oh yeah the fetch idea she has down already but the return is kind of like "I'm busy Dad I'm killing this tennis ball, Grrr!" She has a good health appetite, sleeps often and plays hard when she gets up. Nice to hear that little bark come out that tiny body. Or when you roll on here side kind of pinning her down and she growls back at you, fighting back. Heck I've already had her draw blood on me with those needle teeth.

Yes I've got grill inserts I bolt on in the winter but I've been forgetting to install this winter. My engine oil temp is now as low as 158 to 162*F which is getting to cold for my liking. Coolant is 188 to 195*F. MPG is down about 18 MPG without the winter fronts. Engine needs more heat to light the fuel off properly. My winter front does not interfere with the radiator or the intercooler. If the coolant temperature rises too much the fan can still lock and pull the heat out. Same with the intercooler if there is heat generated the fan can still cool the charge air without a huge loss. Majority of the grill face is covered and the direct cold is not blowing direct through the face at 65 MPH. BHAF typically gains me about +10*F after the grill is covered. MPG should rises again.