Mopar1973Man

TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) this is what actually turns on the fog light. Double check the fuses. Beyond that the fog light are turned on by CANBus message not by a voltage switch we all know. Like the multifunction switch is a mere 5 wires on CANBus system. The headlight switch and fog light controls again are all CANBus message. If you have a second truck with TIPM you can swap it fast in a few minutes just need tools to pull the power lead from the stud. No relays in this system just the TIPM...

Good Gawd... If you boys quit playing with Microsoft Windows and jump to Linux its easy as pie. My PDF viewer has a DOWNLOAD button. Any PDF that I can open on the Internet I can download the entire document then edit the document if needed.

I've got an option for about $2000 for a front mounted snow blower for my ATV but this winter has bee a joke. I've not even shoveled snow at home to clean the step but once. The storm that came did less than 1/2 inch last night. NOAA is calling for 4 to 8 inches here and +10 inch above 6000 feet. I know all you seen me pushing snow with my ATV... I've not even had a good chance at doing that this winter at all.

Ah you ran into the archive section. When post are over 1 year old I would archive the threads for reading only. I would rather have threads start over fresh and new information that might be present today than dragging open a thread might not be current info.

Like the story about the $500 2006 Dodge 3500 I bought the title was here in like less than 7 days. You living in Oregon where the snowflakes want what you have without working for it.

Yes it could... Even though the block heat might make 90 to 100*F temp b ut blowing outside air can upll that down. Then when you start the activation of the high idle 6 CYL just needs. Coolant below 140*F IAT below +32*F with grid heater running. 3 CYL... Coolant below 140*F IAT below +15*F with grid heaters running.

IAT temp has to be below 32°F with the grid heaters running. So it's got to be colder than 32°F to actually trigger 6CYL high idle.

Now your back to replacing the multifunction switch...

Still the fact the issue never changed between new or old part. Same results. If it wasn't right I should got some change like nothing or all working.

Yes. I've got one left let me correct the store... POOF! (Magic dust every where). One sitting on my desk.

Be aware without a tuner the stock ECM is fairly retarded in timing so it does emit more smoke because of this. Then the ECM doesn't know there is a change from Stock to +50 or +75 so the fuel map will be too fat and tends to smoke on launching. Then EGT's will be higher being the retard state of timing. Bigger the injectors the more timing you need to make it efficient. Like I'm running close to 21* @ 2k RPM's. Stock is like 14* @ 2k RPM's. Matter of fact... I've been talking to @dieselautopower (Jacob Kid) and there might be a spot for me as a "tuner tech" for Quadzilla. Still working out how we are going to do this. I've had another vendor ask if I would build tunes for their customers as well. This is still in the "works" right now but soon...

6 CYL Mode requires the coolant <140*F and the IAT <32*F with grid heaters actively heating. Typically close to 25*F outside. 3 CYL Mode requires the coolant <140*F and the IAT <15*F with grid heaters actively heating. Typically close to +5*F outside. Quadzilla anything below your set "Warm up" temp will lock the tuner to level 0. Then waits the delay and then starts 1,200 High idle.

I would say it depends on the tuner that is going to control the timing and fuel aspect of the injectors. Like my old problem was my Edge Comp only basically stacked on +2 or +3 degrees of timing on top of the stock table for the most part. This is part of the fight of why Economy on the Edge sucked. You had to keep your engine load down by slowing down to get the good numbers. The fuel table was more or less treated the same way. Edge Comp had super poor control of fuel and smoke even with +50HP injectors. Consider your tuner. Like today I run just about smokeless on my normal level 2 (stock fuel and added timing) or level 3 (CanBus Fuel and timing). I can handle +150 HP injectors no problem towing even is awesome being close to 18,000 pounds and over 60 feet long and no EGT's issues. ILLEGAL ACTIVITIES Yesterday I knew that @Wet Vette went to the doctor appointment in McCall. She called and ask if I wanted something before she came home from McCall. I was finishing up down at the other shop (Russ). I packed up myself and ran back up canyon towards New Meadows, Found a nice pull out facing toward home and just waited. Eileen found me and pulled over I told her I wanted to "play" on the way home. Needless to say she snagged lead leaving the pull out and as we broke out of the canyon on the first straight I wound the Cummins up passing her at +90 MPH easy and took the lead from her in her Hyundai Elantra. Then we proceeded as a team to run over 80+ in 65 MPH down the windy canyon towards home. Ran like this for over 7 miles and never missed a beat. Pulling corners marked for 65 MPH at 80+ MPH the whole way back. Fresh track bar and Blue Top Steering it was running like a slot car. Eileen stayed tuck in at my rear bumper. Both of use had to hit the 100 mark at least once. Even with 30 inch tires ratio (3.69:1) is awesome pulls super strong on the top end. Brought me back to my old street racing dayz once again. I felt like a teenager once again. Needless to say it was a head rush!!! Both got home smiling...

No, he could not even attempt to handle a redneck gal...

(Gotta say thanks for the other info) Basically the fuel get above 150*F creates asphaltenes that make a material that is like a tar sized at about 2 microns. I'm thankful I use quality filter on the AirDog and the stock filter can. I'm double filtering. Then since I don't return and pump out of the sender basket my fuel stay much cooler. Since I kept the stock filter can I still have my WIF light functional, the electric fuel heater is still working, absorbing heat from the manifold, etc. Being my fuel temp hovers with IAT temperature with (+/- 5*F). My filters go upwards of 60,000 miles. Back when the truck was stock everything. I had problems with asphaltenes building in the fuel filter. Now with the AirDog 150 flowe enough to keep the over flow valve open and double filtering my VP44 stays cooler than most and double filter protect the internal parts of the pump from wear. Then if you add 2 cycle oil on top you now just gave the VP44 the best chance of living a super long life.

Other way is to smack the pin in the Torx screw and break it off with a small hammer and punch. Super easy.

That's one thing Morimoto HID's D2S Lens, does not have is pair of hot spots. The light is evenly cast over a surface. Then it cast farther and higher that most all other solutions. Like @dripley photos the two hotspots won't be there. Now expand the light cast along the edge of the road out another 50 feet out both directions.

I think it's a group 27 IIRC. 31 might just squeeze in but typically the tray is quite big enough. Stock requirements is 750 CCA. Like the Walmart batteries I got are 810 CCA. More than enough to handle subzero starts for 10 plus years.

That would not be much of a upgrade looking at the exhaust housing its a 9cm2 or appears to be. A true HX35W would be 54mm in compressor wheel, 60mm on the exhaust turbine, then the housing is 12cm2. My HX35/40 Hybrid is 60mm compressor, then 60mm turbine wheel, then the housing is 12cm2.

Yes that is good. I'm set to the same time delay. Quadzilla yes. Cummins ECM No. The ECM software will cancel if you touch the brakes. Usually as the time runs out mine snaps instantly to 1000 to1200 RPM. On cold morning it might hang a bit low hanging at 1000 to 1100 RPM it not set by RPM on the Quadzilla but rough fuel amount. Yeah. That normal as the grid heater fires it drawing roughly 95 Amp and with cold start and batteries needing charged the alternator is most likely maxed out hence why when the grid hit the volt needle falls a bit.

Hence why my filter go 60,000 miles with any issues. I rarely ever see fuel temp even near 140*F. @LorenS thanks for posting that temp so now we know 150*F is the point asphaltene start to create. Again I'm not drawing from the fuel basket but from the tank.

Yes that is the AirDog water separator and prefilter. It does work pretty good at both typically there is most of the water caught here rarley do I ever see water in my stock filter can. I've used Donaldson, AirDog and Fleetgaurd filter all look to be about the same design.

Could be as short as 15k miles if your getting farm fuel from tank or if you going to the fuel station maybe 60k miles. All depends on your source of fuel and how clean said fuel is before you pump in your tank. AirDog 150 pre-filter and water separator. Now the filter never really ever fills up or plugs on these. When you change the main filter I will shake this on up a bit and the dump it out. Just screw it back on. I only check for rust damage and keep reusing the pre-filter. Now as for that little in-line filter you have to throw it out after a cycle you can't wash then out very difficult...

I just got my 2005 Dodge Ram customers steering box back on Monday. Now Wednesday I'll go to install this box. I'll try and remember pictures. I've got a Blue Top (Quick Ratio) in my truck and its Tight! Like Race car Tight! I did readjust the sector adjustment of the output shaft to get the last bit a of slack out.

Can you post a picture of this turbo so we all can see what your working with and then could you shot a clear picture of any tag or model numbers so we can look pu specs if possible?