Mopar1973Man

LEDs have that issue even the ones in my 1996 dodge do this as well with icing over. Sad to say even my $350 PIAA LED driving lights ice over as well. Now my Morimoto D2S can ice over to only in really bad storms. Typically it can hold a small hole to shine through. The only thing that holds up good in subzero is halogen I';m sorry to say.

1989 to 2002 are strictly "Power Steering Fluid" 2003 to current are are strictly "ATF+4" Why the switch because the old school Sagnaw box was replaced all Ford Hydrobooster and Ford Steering box. You cannot put ATF in a power steering fluid system because the seeals are not design for it nor is the pump design to pump something that thin. Reason for hmm and buzz noise is debris lodged in the power side of either hydro booster or the steering box. With everything is in the neutral position (brake pedal and steering wheel) the pump should just free flow back on the return line. If it humming or grunting like its applying pressure you might have a plugged passage. I've keep my system clean with every 30k miles I dump, flush and refill the system. Never once had a issue in 428k miles and counting. Never used synthetics either, no need. So from 2003 on to current the steering system is fully Ford. Hence the use of ATF+4 for the system. Matter of fact I just had @Blue-Top Steeringrebuild a 2005 Steering box which I get to install this weekend.

Running 245/75 R16 tires, super easy to spin the steering. I've got a quick ratio Blue Top Steering box. Just run NAPA power steering fluid. (Not synthetic). I just went to McCall ID and it was barely +9°F outside. Super tight steering, no Humm of the pump. NOTE: Do not attempt to use a quick ratio box on oversized tires, ratio is not enough for pulling the tires and gear box damage will occur. Oversized tires needs the standard ratio to ease stress on the steering box like running 4.10 axle gears for 35 inch tires and up.

ONLY if the high idle software is enabled. Once enabled it will be rather random hit miss. Be8ng based on IAT to start. Then if you had my switch then you can command what you want.

There is no controls for high idle. It must meet the sensors requirements. The is no steering wheel control like 3rd gens. Hence why the high switch was made to give control over it.

Can you write a bit of code to show the variable for the vanes so you can see if they are actually be set right or is there another bit of code over riding your value. I sometime fight web code the same way and just plop in a more or less "print X" and look at what the software is doing. I've made coding mistakes where the set value was being over written by anothe command.

TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) this is what actually turns on the fog light. Double check the fuses. Beyond that the fog light are turned on by CANBus message not by a voltage switch we all know. Like the multifunction switch is a mere 5 wires on CANBus system. The headlight switch and fog light controls again are all CANBus message. If you have a second truck with TIPM you can swap it fast in a few minutes just need tools to pull the power lead from the stud. No relays in this system just the TIPM...

Good Gawd... If you boys quit playing with Microsoft Windows and jump to Linux its easy as pie. My PDF viewer has a DOWNLOAD button. Any PDF that I can open on the Internet I can download the entire document then edit the document if needed.

I've got an option for about $2000 for a front mounted snow blower for my ATV but this winter has bee a joke. I've not even shoveled snow at home to clean the step but once. The storm that came did less than 1/2 inch last night. NOAA is calling for 4 to 8 inches here and +10 inch above 6000 feet. I know all you seen me pushing snow with my ATV... I've not even had a good chance at doing that this winter at all.

Ah you ran into the archive section. When post are over 1 year old I would archive the threads for reading only. I would rather have threads start over fresh and new information that might be present today than dragging open a thread might not be current info.

Like the story about the $500 2006 Dodge 3500 I bought the title was here in like less than 7 days. You living in Oregon where the snowflakes want what you have without working for it.

Yes it could... Even though the block heat might make 90 to 100*F temp b ut blowing outside air can upll that down. Then when you start the activation of the high idle 6 CYL just needs. Coolant below 140*F IAT below +32*F with grid heater running. 3 CYL... Coolant below 140*F IAT below +15*F with grid heaters running.

IAT temp has to be below 32°F with the grid heaters running. So it's got to be colder than 32°F to actually trigger 6CYL high idle.

Now your back to replacing the multifunction switch...

Still the fact the issue never changed between new or old part. Same results. If it wasn't right I should got some change like nothing or all working.

Yes. I've got one left let me correct the store... POOF! (Magic dust every where). One sitting on my desk.

Be aware without a tuner the stock ECM is fairly retarded in timing so it does emit more smoke because of this. Then the ECM doesn't know there is a change from Stock to +50 or +75 so the fuel map will be too fat and tends to smoke on launching. Then EGT's will be higher being the retard state of timing. Bigger the injectors the more timing you need to make it efficient. Like I'm running close to 21* @ 2k RPM's. Stock is like 14* @ 2k RPM's. Matter of fact... I've been talking to @dieselautopower (Jacob Kid) and there might be a spot for me as a "tuner tech" for Quadzilla. Still working out how we are going to do this. I've had another vendor ask if I would build tunes for their customers as well. This is still in the "works" right now but soon...

6 CYL Mode requires the coolant <140*F and the IAT <32*F with grid heaters actively heating. Typically close to 25*F outside. 3 CYL Mode requires the coolant <140*F and the IAT <15*F with grid heaters actively heating. Typically close to +5*F outside. Quadzilla anything below your set "Warm up" temp will lock the tuner to level 0. Then waits the delay and then starts 1,200 High idle.

I would say it depends on the tuner that is going to control the timing and fuel aspect of the injectors. Like my old problem was my Edge Comp only basically stacked on +2 or +3 degrees of timing on top of the stock table for the most part. This is part of the fight of why Economy on the Edge sucked. You had to keep your engine load down by slowing down to get the good numbers. The fuel table was more or less treated the same way. Edge Comp had super poor control of fuel and smoke even with +50HP injectors. Consider your tuner. Like today I run just about smokeless on my normal level 2 (stock fuel and added timing) or level 3 (CanBus Fuel and timing). I can handle +150 HP injectors no problem towing even is awesome being close to 18,000 pounds and over 60 feet long and no EGT's issues. ILLEGAL ACTIVITIES Yesterday I knew that @Wet Vette went to the doctor appointment in McCall. She called and ask if I wanted something before she came home from McCall. I was finishing up down at the other shop (Russ). I packed up myself and ran back up canyon towards New Meadows, Found a nice pull out facing toward home and just waited. Eileen found me and pulled over I told her I wanted to "play" on the way home. Needless to say she snagged lead leaving the pull out and as we broke out of the canyon on the first straight I wound the Cummins up passing her at +90 MPH easy and took the lead from her in her Hyundai Elantra. Then we proceeded as a team to run over 80+ in 65 MPH down the windy canyon towards home. Ran like this for over 7 miles and never missed a beat. Pulling corners marked for 65 MPH at 80+ MPH the whole way back. Fresh track bar and Blue Top Steering it was running like a slot car. Eileen stayed tuck in at my rear bumper. Both of use had to hit the 100 mark at least once. Even with 30 inch tires ratio (3.69:1) is awesome pulls super strong on the top end. Brought me back to my old street racing dayz once again. I felt like a teenager once again. Needless to say it was a head rush!!! Both got home smiling...

No, he could not even attempt to handle a redneck gal...

(Gotta say thanks for the other info) Basically the fuel get above 150*F creates asphaltenes that make a material that is like a tar sized at about 2 microns. I'm thankful I use quality filter on the AirDog and the stock filter can. I'm double filtering. Then since I don't return and pump out of the sender basket my fuel stay much cooler. Since I kept the stock filter can I still have my WIF light functional, the electric fuel heater is still working, absorbing heat from the manifold, etc. Being my fuel temp hovers with IAT temperature with (+/- 5*F). My filters go upwards of 60,000 miles. Back when the truck was stock everything. I had problems with asphaltenes building in the fuel filter. Now with the AirDog 150 flowe enough to keep the over flow valve open and double filtering my VP44 stays cooler than most and double filter protect the internal parts of the pump from wear. Then if you add 2 cycle oil on top you now just gave the VP44 the best chance of living a super long life.

Other way is to smack the pin in the Torx screw and break it off with a small hammer and punch. Super easy.

That's one thing Morimoto HID's D2S Lens, does not have is pair of hot spots. The light is evenly cast over a surface. Then it cast farther and higher that most all other solutions. Like @dripley photos the two hotspots won't be there. Now expand the light cast along the edge of the road out another 50 feet out both directions.

I think it's a group 27 IIRC. 31 might just squeeze in but typically the tray is quite big enough. Stock requirements is 750 CCA. Like the Walmart batteries I got are 810 CCA. More than enough to handle subzero starts for 10 plus years.

That would not be much of a upgrade looking at the exhaust housing its a 9cm2 or appears to be. A true HX35W would be 54mm in compressor wheel, 60mm on the exhaust turbine, then the housing is 12cm2. My HX35/40 Hybrid is 60mm compressor, then 60mm turbine wheel, then the housing is 12cm2.