Mopar1973Man

I don't suggest any Moog parts... No longer USA made but China. Quality has gone down. Been using NAPA stuff no issues really.

Ask @pepsi71ocean he got a set of DAP injectors 100 HP. Ran them about 28k miles and they had dropped to 280 to 290 bar IIRC. So just because they were set perfect at 310 bar they will still settle in after a break in period typically lose about 10 bar at the worse case. Another way... My 7 x 0.010 injectors were popped at 320 bar. My engine idle was a perfect 800 RPM but the engine load was higher at 13% when the injectors are new. I've got roughly 60k miles on these injectors at just about a year old or so. Now the engine load has dropped to 6% at idle. Idle speed is still correct but the engine load is dropping out and eventually the injectors will be below minimum pop. I figure right at 100k miles these will be wiped out. My stock injectors had 150k miles on them. I had them sent in to be popped and rebuilt. Fun was the stock injectors idled high at 850 to 875 RPM. Didn't have a Quad then... But the pop pressure was 260 bar. I bet for sure engine load was a ZERO.

Right from the FSM. So stock is 310 bar. The bottom end is 293 bar. Within about 20k to 40k miles you can lose up to 10 bar with everything settling. Few member here have seen this. Range of use is... Lower limit is 4,250 PSI which is equal to 293 bar. STOCK - 4,500 PSI which is equal to 310 bar. Upper limit is 4,750 PSI which is equal to 327 bar. Like my 7 x 0.010 were popped at 320 bar (+10 bar over stock). This gave a good bump in MPG and reduced smoke. Some will argue that increasing pop reduces flow some. Then it also affects timing as well making it retarded you can make that up on a Quadzilla though. Another way to check pop pressure... This method does work and found several truck with zero engine load and idle RPM above 800 RPM's. This is because the injector is opening too early and flowing too much fuel. The ECM and VP44 can't defuel any more. Hence the pop pressure is most likely below 280 bar at this point.

Yup that's why I never wanted to give up my 3" exhaust because is was super quiet and never had a EGT issue. 3 inch exhaust can support quite a bit before needing to step up to 4 inch exhaust.

Same I was making 45 PSI and still holding the gasket too. My gasket failure was rear passenger side coolant jacket. I'm going to say I over extended my coolant change a few times.

Actually stock can handle quite a bit. I was upwards of 25 and 27 degrees of timing yet. It between the boost pressure and the timing. Figure the boost pressure 30 PSI being compressed is 1,100 PSI in the cylinder. Then add lots of timing that is enough to spike cylinder pressures. But timing is based on nozzle size, pop pressure, and a few other factors like cetane... So the timing number will vary because of the other factors.

3 years ago... But worth every penny.

Walmart battery work great I'm almost to 10 years on these batteries. Tidbit there is only 3 companies that manufacture batteries. Then on top of that Walmart batteries are the very same battery the factory installed back in the day typically an upgrade to 810 CCA or so. AGM batteries I'm no fond of at all seen several explode, can't add distill water. Then you can't equalize charge the batteries to clean the plates of sulphation. Being all the battery in my vehicles last over 10 years I'll stick with lead acid batteries. Even the batteries power my home are going to surpass 10 years soon. I've got a 1,000 pounds of lead acid batteries. (Solar and hydro powered home).

Funny... 3" exhaust I ran straight pipe for year never had drone. Now running 4" muffled and have drone only while towing on 6% and 7% grades. Basically bigger the pipe the more the drone issues and being loud.

Actually it reduces the AC noise because its is NOT running beside the ground for the ECM and VP44. Then the grounds are over 4 feet shorter. The charge lead is now on the passenger side and the grounds go to the driver side. There is distance between the ground leads and the alternator charge lead now. Stock setup you can see the ground and charge lead running parallel to each other. After the mod... ECM and VP44 grounds are tied to the gear case. Then the alternator charge line goes to the passenger battery but passing through a 150A circuit breaker.

I want to do the 62/68/12 so bad yet... Current the HX325/40 I'm running is 60/60/12 which is close to HE351 turbo from a 3rd gen.

Yup. I've got to do this mod here very soon for my landlord at my other shop hes got a bad AC noise issues. I've already ordered his circuit breaker and its on my desk...

So do I. Bluetooth connection to my stereo / handfree Bluetooth connection to my Quadzilla Work great. The bluetooth connection now since I upgraded from LG G5 to Samsung S10 has greatly improved. Just a few hiccups but working better than my old LG G5 phone was. Handles handfree calls at the same time handling Quadzilla.

Same, I would run studs. 425 ARP studs now and upwards of 47 PSI for boost. Somewhere around 500 HP. Ahhh... Here is the link to all my mods. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

Another product... https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380112-Contact-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B008VK0JS4/

Need to back up from the the wall to show pattern better.

Straight pipe has always been the best flowing exhaust. Even my muffled exhaust will have a loss to it. How much? I'm not sure... But remember this is during WOT operation on the dyno. Daily driver always going to be partial throttle unless your showing off.

How many miles on the clock? Stock injectors?

Bingo!

That is for the rear drop pipe. It has to be threaded to install and remove.

Fusible link in the harness can be fried. 3rd gens have a fusible link buried in the loom. No alternator fuse like 2nd Gens but have a fusible link that burns in two inside the loom where you can't see. Why I say that is the ECM is telling full field to charge at max rate but the alternato can't reach the batteries because the fusible link is burnt in two.

Just remember you have all the oven baking the lens off, setting up and testing, putting the new leans on and hope they are water tight. If there is a screw up you'll have to bake them off again to fix. Kind of the reason I went my direction I didn't have the time for all this and needed them promptly to keep driving back and forth. So it adds the assemble and shipping (2nd day). Hence why my price was 750 for the set.

Down my a-pillar I've got boost 0-60 PSI, Fuel pressure 0-30 PSI and EGT's 0-1,600*F. Then Trans temp on the column. All gauges are ISSPro EV2 and programmed all the warning light for proper values. Boost gauge is set for 45 PSI. Fuel pressure is set for 13 PSI and the EGT's are set for 1,200*F. Then the Trans Temp is set for 220*F. No longer do you have to watch gauges I can tell by location of the warning light what to do without looking.

Needle valve is a wonderful thing!

The stock charge lead is too small for 180A alternator and the PDC fuse is too small. So the W-T mod and the PCM protection fuse is requirement to make it work correctly. You'll need a circuit breaker most likely 200A. You can do fuses but make sure to buy more than just one or two. Then make sure to care tools for said fuse so you can change it. I like the circuit breaker is reset-able works pretty good as long as it hidden from hi heat. I've got mine buried on the firewall side of the passenger side battery tray.