Mopar1973Man

Like today I've got to cancel working and take mom to her medical appointments. Snowing and going to be slick in McCall. I've got the only 4WD vehicle right now till I can get time to fix the 1996 Dodge then I would of just let Eileen take the 1996 Dodge. I'm currently buried in more work than I can handle. Between needing time chasing medical offices, paperwork on Power Of Attorneys, and keeping bills paid between the 3 of us. I've gotta say thanks to you BoDs for the new Samsung S10+ phone. It's been used a considerable amount already. Then I've got to pull my transmission again 2and gear synchro is screwing up. Already contacted Weller truck and got to get the 1996 Dodge running first. Then I can visit the other shop and use the 2 post this time. Barely lasted 800 miles.

Excessive AC noise comes out as a cruise control surge because the tach signal is a AC signal and the alternator noise will flood the PCM and ECM with noise fouling everything from transmission shift issues to even speedometer issues.

PCM only charges what it needs. The charging system is basically the same from 1963. The only difference we have battery temp sensor where old school used air temp around the external regulator which was poor design at best. Typically 13.2 at the lowest and 14.8 at the highest.

Well I went on @AH64ID suggestion and took a trip on down to Durobilt yesterday with the alternator from the 1996 Dodge 1500. Its a small shop in Nampa ID. Amazing to walk in and look at his stock he carries everything for starter and alternator from small cars to full size industrial application. Now moving on to my alternator he bench it quickly and it passed. I quickly told him I was having high AC noise issues. So he hands off the alternator to his crew man there while he show me around the building. Within about 2 to 3 minutes his employee had it pulled apart and the brushes were at thew limits just barely making contact. This would be my source of AC noise from the arcing of the brushes. He cleans up the slip rings and installs a new set of brushes. Re-test and good to go. Maybe 15 minutes total. My total cost was $40.50 for that alternator fix. That was way cheaper than a full replacement. Thank you @AH64ID for the suggestion that was worth it!

Serious issue. There should be a 140A fuse protecting the alternator in the PDC. Is the alternator fuse in place? Has there been any electrical modified? Large electrical loads added like winch or high wattage lighting? Even with the W-T ground mod I used a 150A circuit breaker on the charge lead. It's mounted behind the passenger battery tray facing the firewall. Side notes. I just had a alternator rebuilt and talking to the rebuilder and he told me alternator diodes or alternator failure is typically other electric issue like bad grounds or bad connection that backfeeds the electrical system causing the damage. It is not common for alternator failure and it should be investigated deeper.

Ummm... Not seen. Eileen was home all day unless its in the mail that my neighbor picks up. I'll look today. As for returning back to the oil temp the lowest I got was running +2*F outside, winter front, and the oil temp was 162*F and so was the oil filter measured with IR gun. On the way home in 40*F weather it was 171*F maxed out climbing 6% grade. I've even bumped the timing up trying a tweak in my winter tune. Coolant still running 192*F to 195*F constantly. Double check and triple checked that temperature is absolutely correct. The only thing I can say is this is the oil AFTER the cooler. Being the radiator on the suction side is cool to the touch. But yes that temperature shown by the Quadzilla is 100% correct.

It could be air leak in the suction side of the pump. He mentions that the fuel pressure gets unstable then it stalls. I've seen a truck with a bad pick up tube in the tank and would do something similar and start bouncing fuel pressure and then die. The fuel gauge still shows 3/8 of a tank and the tank had fuel but the stock pick up tube was cracked and get low enough it would suck air and quit. I would look towards filling the tank and trying again. Also after filling the tank and it stands for a period of time look at all the external plumbing on the frame rail and up for moisture or possible outward leaks. Suction side plumbing typically will not leak outwards but constantly sucking air inwards even parked. This makes it difficult but not impossible to find. On a partial tank use a shop vacuum and reverse it to the blow. Using the hose you can pressurize the fuel tank. This will help in finding any external leaks possibly. Fuel pressure should not bounce or change a bunch while driving.

Haven't seen it yet... most likely will some time.

Hence why CAD axle design has been obsoleted and no longer used. All future trucks are all solid axle design now.

No there is no loss to perma-locked axle. When my high mark on the diesel is 27.2 MPG. Typically doing 19 to 20 MPG.

More... So yeah I went back to work on trucks. Still MoparMom is going downhill. This is going to expand more medical appointments. Now this is where Eileen is filling the void she is running MoparMom to her appointments today. I was working on transmission cooler lines and looking for oil smell on another 4the gen...

I've got a CAD axle in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and absolutely hate the dang thing. Sometimes it will lock quickly and then fight to get it unlocked for +10 miles. I've replaced the vacuum motor, fork shoes, double check vacuum lines. Still a pain in the tail to get locked and unlocked. I agree with Evan either consider manual cable control or change axle. Another rare one is be climbing a grade but the manifold vacuum is low and have it unlock the axles when you least expect it and really need the 4WD. 2002 Dodge with a solid axles never a single problem. Clutch in shift to 4WD. Click. Clutch in and shift to 2WD no problem. Never hangs up or have any issues with locking into 4WD or 2WD. Works every time.

Back to the shop and still behind... 3rd gen truck with trans cooler line leak. What a pain in the tail. The fuel filter has to come out then the starter. Oh my gawd Mopar really screwed the pooch on this lay out. I've got the long line stuck and can't get it out of the truck yet. Stopped and came home for lunch after being rained on with melting snow and ATF+4.

Overflow valve... Overflow valve removed. Testing of the overflow valve is inside the article above.

If the injectors are stock and over 100k miles they are wasted. These engines are rather retarded in timing why most of us use a tuner like Quadzilla to crank the timing up where needed. There is a lot of upgrades to making good power.

He'll need to key off for 10 seconds. Then do the starter bump. Then it will run the 20 seconds. The stall will be counted and key bump will not function. The ECM has to be down for 10 seconds and do a fresh reboot for starter bump to work. Watch the fuel pressure.

When you figure out the upgrade to D2S lens and the D2S shroud then the rush shipping you can see the increased price I paid. Still in all the Morimoto lighting is awesome.

Mine failed on the FM side. Tuner no longer works.

Remember grid heaters will cycle still pull voltage down. Grid heaters draw 95 maps per element.

What is you fuel pressure?

Yup. Got my transmission back in and haven't been home in nearly 5 days. Seems like I get up drive to doctors appt and to dialysis. Got home last night went to sleep got up and now eating breakfast in Weiser ID. I only worked 1 day. Close to 1,200 miles this week. So my shop is a trainwreck tools on the floor, dirty rags, bench is full of junk, yup it's a mess.

Better stay away from here too. Too many tools stuck in the walls. Then too many tools left out from previous jobs.

Mine are still zipzied to the fender as of yet... PIAA 530 LED driving lights (not fog pattern). Super bright. They are brighter than the Morimoto's. Look up from the bottom there is a star wheel you can slide a #2 philips screw driver into from the bumper gap. Only up and down of the beam. No left to right adjustment.

Sure.

Neither of those sensor control idle speed. Only IVS idle validation switch controls idle. When the APPS grounds the idle pin the ECM will control idle speed directly. The only sensor that controls idle speed is coolant.