Mopar1973Man

Gotta take a poke at him again...

No. Absolutely not. I agree with that. The only thing I don't want to do is hand over good money for a logo'ed part (Mopar or Cummins) to find out its made by a company that you can buy directly from them instead at a huge reduction of price. Few of the past things I bought like a MAP sensor from Cummins and the adapter for 2001 to 2002 that cost me over $200 for the two pieces. Another waste of money being these sensors can be had for a better price and with the adapter cable for free. Another one, I ended up replacing APPS sensor early in life no aftermarket parts available and went to Dodge Dealer and got hosed for $480 for APPS sensor. Now know there is Timbo's APPS at the fraction of the price and way better design. Still running my Timbo's without any issues. Another one, I was told by Eric @ Vulcan Performance to just call Cummins Dealer and order crossover tubes. OMG! $420 bucks for all 6 connector tubes. I refused to pay the $70 a piece price for Cummins logo'ed crossover tube. I had Eric order the set from his supplier took a huge savings. Just few example of wasteful spending just for OEM parts.

I want to bring up something that i think is rather weird. Majority of people here are quick to make changes to there truck and ditch OEM stuff. For the 2nd Gen 24V the OEM lift pump is removed and upgraded to FASS, AirDog or mechanical pump. Stock OEM injectors pull out and aftermarket oversized injectors installed. Then the Factory ECM tune is ditched for Quadzilla, Smarty, Edge, etc. Why in the heck does any one want to hold so dearly to a thermostat, water pump or a fan clutch that MUST be OEM? First off if you do your research Moprar and Cummins don't make very many parts. Like the last blow up over a thermostat. There is only a small handful of companies making thermostats. Again Mopar and Cummins don't manufacture any thermostats, fan clutches, or water pumps. The other thing is comments of all the failures on forums. Wow. Sure everyone is quick to complain about a failure of a part. But... There is lots of different things that could of gone wrong. Improper installation, defective part, abusing the vehicle, radiator plugged up, etc. Then rarely if at all does anyone say anything about great results with a aftermarket parts. So that is a very skewed method picking parts. My point is Mopar and Cummins is NOT doing any research to improve parts for our trucks they are done. There is entire aftermarket world where companies are actually improving parts and products. What is there just the handful of parts that MUST be OEM? I've got no clue... I've watch as @Me78569 use OEM Dana Ball joints which end up failing early too. I watch people do this all the time thinking that the same parts are still there from back in 1998.5 to 2002. Nope those parts are long gone and someone else is making the replacement parts for Mopar and Cummins. Kind of like the original fuel pickup basket of the 1998.5 to 2002 that no longer produced period. The only thing I want to point out before jumping into Cummins or Mopar for OEM parts. First do a bit of research. First off is the old part going to be the same part manufacturer? Most likely not. Second find out who is manufacturing said part now. Pretty sure you'll find out you can have the very same part but a reasonable price from the manufacturer that is supplying Mopar or Cummins. You don't have to buy the logo on the box. Then there is the entire aftermarket world of parts where other companies are making better parts and supplies for our trucks. Kind of like saying you want a OEM 47RE transmission which everyone here knows was a weak transmission won't hold the power. That where the aftermarket world comes in and making thing better with heavy duty parts. If OEM is so great I offer anyone to return there truck back to OEM let's go back to the OEM lift pump on the block or the OEM lift pump in the tank... I'm sure that won't last very long at all. Why even ask for OEM anything knowing that 99% of all parts today have been improved over the OEM of 1998.5 to 2002... Some people forget... I just don't work on my own truck but tons of vehicles. I work on Dodge's, Ram's, Chevy's, Ford's, etc. Now I will admit there is some parts I've seen low service rates. I'm not going to beat anyone up over it I just use something that works better. Very very rare do I ever go to a dealer for parts this is plain foolish. Like there are sometimes that OEM is the only choice. I did a A/C job on a Subaru few years back and it was a hybrid car (6 cylinder) this made the A/C parts rather rare. I needed the pressure switch on the accumulator. Hunted all over the place for that switch come to find out its a dealer only item. What was worse was you had to buy it with the accumulator at the price of $520 dollars. Just because it came from Subaru dealer it was priced extremely high. I had no other choice. If there was a aftermarket part I would of jump in a heart beat and left Subaru dealer in a hurry. My job to all you is to help you fix your truck and help you get parts that are reasonable in price and good service life. I really do have a problem when people are push into dealer parts and prices because it not always the best parts either. Again why do we pull all the OEM stuff and replace it with aftermarket stuff?

PCM controls the OD shift. So you need to verify the the transmission power relay and fuse are good. Then make sure the ORG/BLK wire is not damaged. Basically the PCM just grounds that wire to make 4th gear shift.

The rest of the wiring loom needs to be swapped too the pins are not the same order, there is wiring differences.

Do a bit of testing and diagnostics. Most of the steps you can do with a normal DVM meter. P1693 code just means there is more error codes on the other module.

Pin 37 is the Wait To Start light.

Have you tested the injectors? Good bet they are starting to hang open and wash the cylinders down too.

I've ran... Smarty S-03 Smarty touch Edge Comp Quadzilla Adrenaline Still say for the VP44 Quadzilla hands down with the most tuning ability and best power. Edge Comp is second where its the most easiest tuner to set up and use, but the worse for smoke control being its design only for stock injectors.

This stems back from Marco in Italy. The S-03 Smarty just never got the proper attention it should have. There has never been any explanation of the setting and what the fuel and timing maps are like. Then after going down the Smarty Touch route and finding out it is still only a +60 HP tuner but costing $1,700 to get the full package. Not to mention the Smarty Touch is just a over priced version of the Smarty S-03. Still only 60 HP tuner. Not worth it. This stems from the fact Marco in Italy focused more so on the CR engines more so and left the VP44 truck in the cold. The effort into the tuners for the VP44 wasn't there. I've even asked directly to Marco long ago for more info. Even then when I was working for SmartyResource information was extremely limited for the VP44 truck and still is. Now for CR engines there is a ton of information and tuning abilities are way way better. Smarty was given the offer long ago to interface with members here but refused to take the time. The biggest thing I always work towards was trying to build a article database for Smarty that provided all the information on the tuner. To this day even the Smarty Touch is extremely limited. Marco's comment was its a living and breathing device that doesn't require documentation. What?!?! There is a lot of promises I've heard about where Smarty was going to add functions but people have been waiting far too long and the promises never happened. This is because Quadzilla has focused directly on the VP44 platform more so. Bringing all the power, tuning and other options to the table. Which is completely missing on both of the Smarty S-03 and Smarty Touch. Now with Quadzilla they have been direct working with the members of the site here and still are.

What ever... You guys can keep going I quit... Bye!

Only thing I asking for is to look past the logo. Look at who manufacture the thermostat. Again Cummins and Mopar do not manufacture thermostats. 375-190 (190F) and 375-180 (180F) SS1956247 - Safety Stant only in the 190F series. Just called the NAPA store for the 3 numbers...

It is the right application just failed. That is the new 2019 thermostat from Cummins. That is the new on on the left. Dead and no good. That is for the 2002 ISB Cummins 190F thermostat. No. The right thermostat is the previous Cummins thermostat way different. But the right part and just changed manufactures. Cummins no longer sells the previous version and changed manufactures. He even asked if he could get that same MotorRad thermostat but no longer used by Cummins. Again just because its OEM doesn't mean you get the same part. Umm... 190F thermostat staying cold is not a failure? Doubt that, Cummins thermostat failed to open at the proper temperature period. Point is I'm trying to get people to look at the manufacture more so than logo on the box. Being there is only a handful of manufactures of thermostats and these logos like Cummins just buy from one of these. Now if we knew who made the thermostat we could go to the company directly without the logo'ed box. Like there is Gates, Stant, etc. Who made it?

Umm... Both Cummins and the new one was dead in the box... Hmmm... But this is NOT a OEM on the left being OEM is on the right. Both are Cummins thermostats. Also people are quick to complain about something but rarely give praise for something that does work. Being I've been using NAPA I've not had one failure YET. All thermostats have worked without an issue. I will give NAPA thermostats some kudo's.

I've used Prestone (Yellow), NAPA (Green), Walmart SuperTech (Yellow), and many other names of green or yellow coolant zero issues.

Why I'm asking for the manufacture than the vendor because then you can go directly to the source for a the thermostat and most likely get a better price and still get a Cummins thermostat. Cummins, Mopar, NAPA, Autozone are just vendors that sell what is put in the box and know nothing about what is in the box. I've ask at the Dodge Dealer for manufacture info and they are clueless like usual. Still in all there is only a handful of companies manufacturing these thermostats and you should just go directly to the manufacture and skip the logo'ed box.

I know that your point. But... Who manufactures the thermostats? Being that even Cummins thermostat I've seen is different and never the same. Like yours is 2018 and standard style. Then 2019 went to a different design all together. Again WHO is manufacturing the thermostats for Cummins and Mopar? This is the only thing I want to know. Because neither Cummins or Mopar manufacture thermostats.

I'm not sure at this time I can find out from @mr.obvious. His was a 190°F bought in May of 2019. Purchase from Kenworth dealer in Ontario, OR. My point is that neither Cummins or Mopar produce thermostats. They change manufactures when they wish at any time. There is only a few companies that actually do produce thermostats. What they are listed as doesn't matter either being NAPA doesn't produce thermostats either. NAPA changes manufactures at the drop of a hat as well. It more about who made the thermostat than the vendor that sold the thermostat. So far no one had been able identify the manufacture of any thermostats and just chase brand names.

No. The bottom end typically is not that accurate and hard to feel the click. Better off getting a 3/8 Torque Wrench with smaller foot pound rating.

I've been using economy brake pads since the OEM pads wore out. My rotors lated over 350k miles before replacing. Never cracked or warped.

I can tell you that Cummins and Mopar do NOT produce any thermostats and will randomly change manufacture at the drop of a hat. That is NOT a current Cummins thermostat they have changed again. Out of date... New Cummins on the far left (2019). Then the old Cummins on the right. (2002). New Cummins thermostat failed right out of the box. Excessively cold.

Never found a compound kit that is exhaust brake friendly yet. That is my only hold up. I'm not giving up my exhaust brake I use that way too much. With the Quadzilla and the "Econo Tune" I'm running I'm smoke free and EGT's are low anyways.

Sad but true after 17 year the passenger side of my dash went POP. Long crack had form from the airbag to the 2/3 to the defrost vent. Hit some rough road patch yesterday and just the rough road was enough to pop the plastic. Can't complain got this far with my dash in one piece.

Current "Econo Tune" Timing... 1500 - 15.0 2000 - 18.3 2500 - 21.7 3000 - 25.0 MAX - 26.0 This so far is giving me the 21+ MPG but allows for 18.5 MPG at 80+ MPH. Non-towing tune. 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar injectors, HX35/40 (60/60/12), and the Quadzilla. One of these days we'll have to make time to meet up.