Mopar1973Man

With all the time I'm down in Ontario, OR and being in the big city for 4 to 5 hours. I see plenty of people that are looking for the easy way to everything. When you panhandling on the street corner and you got enough money for propane heater while you stand there I think you're just being too lazy. You have no respect for yourself or others. As for automotive work, it's getting pretty bad. I'm watchful of everything. Even simple thing like tire rotation or rebalance I watch the guys like a hawk. Sorry, I'm just not very trusting being the number of miles I put down. I need the failure rate as low as possible. The number of people I hear from and the stories of shops and repairs done and the crap that was half baked. OMG!

Let me get back to that... I'll gather intel on that and show you want that town has to offer.

Sad to say... Todays younger generation are not wanting to work, so the work they do is substandard. I'm the type to double and triple check stuff like installing a clutch because I don't want to pull a transmission back out because I was lazy and not torqued the bolts with torque wrench and done it twice.

@Cowboy is one member with 12V. Hmmm... If I think of other members I link them.

It part of the warranty process. If you just change out the pump you take the risk of debris in the lines that damaging the new pump. All pump suppliers all request a full system flush before installing a new pump. Power Steering pumps on 2003 and above are Ford pump and gearbox.

At least on the 24V the alternator charge line runs beside the ground for the PCM, ECM and VP44. Creates that issue. Being the 12V doesn't have a ECM and VP44 PSG those are out. But as for grounding of the PCM I'm not sure.

That's the whole problem to measure at the time of the problem. You could just have the alternator bench tested.

Now measure at highway speed. Start watching when the TQ conv starts hunting.

Ask @Me78569 about his Spicer ball joints...

I changed them early at 30k miles. Yea I need to leave them in longer. I'm changing too early at 30k miles. Factory rate 15k miles is like fresh out the box yet. Running good ol' petroleum diesel. Mostly from Maverik Fuel Stations here on the west side.

Just select the normal front amber bulb then. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/front-sidemarker-light-bulb/3156-3157-ck-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/7522/?year=2002&make=22&model=1351&scc_id=1396 Here you go. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/back-up-light-bulb/3156-3157-ck-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/?year=2002&make=22&model=1351&scc_id=1427 Actually once outside in bright daylight not bad.

AC noise from the alternator affects all sensors with speed. Like tachometer, output speed sensor, ABS speed sensors, etc. The bad part is the only tool that can see the noise is o-scope.

Alternator noise issue possibly. Here is the fix for the 24V I'm not sure how it will pan out for the 12V.

I highly suggest not to do a sump. If you do you take a huge risk at ruining a fuel tank there is already been a few members here done a sump and ended up replacing a fuel tank from leaking. Not to mention there are issues law wise about bottom draw tanks which may not be DOT legal. might be fine for the track but I do not suggest it on the highway. Not to mention more fuel line exposed to cold air blowing under the truck and greater chance of gelling up.

Ahh... Opps... Ok he need to upgrade..

That because New Venture went out of business after 124 years. There are very few cores left in the world so the core prices are even monster high. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Venture_Gear More on the article of the shut down. https://www.syracuse.com/news/index.ssf/2012/08/new_process_gear_closes_this_w.html

Set the warmup mode temperature. Like I've got 170*F for this setting. Then you need to set the high idle delay time which I've got 15-second delay. Warning don't run the Quadzilla high idle with the factory high idle on the ECM enabled. If for chance the 3 CYL mode is kicked in while the Quadzilla running 6 CYL it will create a heck of a problem.

Sounds like it. This is one of the problems of "Canned Tuners" as you keep upgrading the truck with different turbos and injectors the canned tune no longer fits correctly. Just the mere fact of the injectors wearing out and pop pressure falling off will require adjustments to the tune to keep it running efficiently.

The play is most likely the pump. What you'll need to do is pull the belt and check the shaft play for the pump. If the pump is the problem make sure to flush the system BEFORE removing the old pump. This will flush the system of any debris before installing the new pump.

Tap point -> Needle valve -> Snubber -> 5 to 7 feet of tubing -> Fuel pressure sensor.

Absolutely. Even on low the new Ford truck suck. Horridly bright and always in your face. Must be that Ford squatting problem.

If you figure from -40 to 204 That is 255 degree (have to count zero too) span which is exactly FF in hexadecimal. Strange though the OBDII port reports correctly all the way to 240*F. This is part of the CCD Network. Where the Quadzilla is on the ECM CANBus.

Be aware... Now with mechanical gauges typically there is 5 to 7 feet of tubing between the tap point and the gauge. Now with electric gauges you need the same amount of tubing distance as well. A lot of people just screw the sensor directly into the tap point. This is wrong. You need to have that 5 to 7 feet of tubing yet this what allows the pulses to fade into the distances of the tubing. Still need a snubber too..

One of the few reasons I do my own mechanic work.

I deal with those every single day. More so in the big city areas more. Up here it mostly people get huge light bars with massive wattages and running them on the highway. Which is illegal to run cab top light bar on the highway.