Mopar1973Man

Most with CAD axles rave about the idea of having the manual pull cable to allow for 2WD LO for backing trailers and other stuff around.

Not even cold yet. 55*F in the morning is a typical summer morning for me. Cold is when you start diving below 0*F now that's cold now you should consider using the block heater. Right around 32*F I start using grid heaters on the first start of the day. I don't even worry about plugging in the block heater till it diving below ZERO. Sad, part is when I'm traveling I don't have an option to plug in if it below zero. I just cycle the grid heaters twice and fire up and let it warm up for just a bit. This is why I don't panic about plugging in because once I travel somewhere there is no way to plug in again. Why worry...

It seems the non-returning fuel pumps like DDRP's tend to have a problem with cold temperatures. They will attempt to return a large amount of fuel back to the inlet side of the pump when the fuel thickens. This will typically create cavitation. This is where the pump will create its own air in the pump. The returning pumps like the AirDog and FASS don't seem to have this problem nearly as much. It's returned full to the fuel tank and not to the inlet of the pump. Another reason I'm not a fan of drawing from the basket is if the fuel is foaming up from return it will drop fuel pressure. My return and supply are not in the same basket.

Kind of like I've got the CAD axle on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500... Personally, I hate that damn thing. Doesn't lock when its suppose to and then hangs up to unlock sometimes. That truck is going cross 180k miles soon. Never done any front end work on that truck ever. The only thing I've replaced was rotors and front brake pads. Still completely OEM everything yet. The factor is the weight on the front axle and the wheel and tire configuration. This is what makes the leveraging forces on the unit bearing and front end suspension parts and a key reason for the failure.

I'm the odd duck of the pile. Still running solid front axle. Just changed out my wheel joints for the first time. Being my all-time hand math high MPG is 27.2 MPG I seriously doubt there is anything to gain by the free spin hub. My previous truck which was a 1972 Dodge Power Wagon with manual hubs and drum brakes. That thing was a huge pain in my ... I ended up breaking wheel joints all the time. I broke several locking hubs. Always packing the damn wheel bearing being the drum brakes would torch the grease so fast. I traded that in on my current truck and only replaced 2 sets of unit bearing in 360k miles. The biggest problem is when people putting large tires on unit bearing they tend to fail quickly they are not designed for wide profile tires and tall tires.

On a DDRP I'm not sure if you can get access to the regulator or not. There might be a screw adjustable regulator you might run it all the way down as low and then back up just in case the regulator is sticking. This is a AirDog 150 which is most likely a different animal from the DDRP. I use washers to shim adjust my fuel pressure up and down. The last coil of the spring I typically just egg shape it a bit. This spring I bent a L in the tip of the last coil and creating my problem.

When you can drive -40*F weather without gelling and never use anti-gel products we'll talk about that. I'm already morning lows of +19*F now.

You want your cruise timing to float about 20* at 2,000 RPM's. I'm much higher at 22 to 23 degrees of timing at cruise for 2K RPM. My 2,000 RPM happens at 66 MPH which is 3.69:1 final ratio to the ground (245/75 R16 with 3.55 gears). Set up your cruise timing there and then road test. Then nudge the timing up another degree and check the engine load and pyrometer. As you advance timing EGT and Engine Load will fall. The other factor is quality of the injectors and the pressure they are pop tested for. As injectors slide on pop pressure the timing will naturally advance but the droplets will become larger. Once a injector drop below about 280 bar efficiency falls off fast. I don't see any injectors list ed in the signature so I'm assuming it stock 235 HP injectors. If so I'm going to bet they are worn out.

Look at the regulator. I've got a similar problem right now and know might is because how I bent the last coil of the spring. It's causing the regulator to wander up and down the same way. When my check ball gets on center and stays then the whole floating up and down goes away and nearly rock solid 17 PSI at idle and stays above 15 at WOT. Lately it random drops will make the drop worse at WOT operation. I know it all the regulator screwing up on my AirDog 150. DDRP has the other flaw being your plumbing is too small if it's still hooking up to banjo bolts and stock fuel lines.

Wow. That is extremely high. I'm typically 19 to 22% engine load at 65 MPH for +75HP injectors. You got to look into you total drag, tires are a factor still rotational weight.

What we need is to find out RPM, engine load, at lets say 65 MPH.

Sound those need pop testing too. You should be able to clean those up.

At least final ratio is close enough 3.55 to work with. Working with MPG tuning I suggest you grab an app called Simply Auto. Now you want to start tracking your MPG number. Now only make one change at a time. Don't change too much stuff at once. If you start your cruise timing at 20 degrees at 2,000 RPM it will be close.

Build another tune for those sticks.

I would talk to @Dynamic he sells kits so you can rebuild transmissions yourself or supply you local rebuilder. Its a solution to youtransmission issues. Electrical stuff isn't so bad as long as your capable of understanding electricity and electrical test tools. Some people are not electrical minded.

You might still cut the filter open and check the filter media condition. Like Dodge owners manual states 15,000 miles but I cut my AirDog filter open and found a near new filter yet. I kept expanding the interval till I reached 60k miles and found filter that is getting dirty looking. Still even that far out I never had any fuel pressure drop.

Sure don't help when Moog selling incomplete parts.

Now that is what I expect for prices about $1,000 to $2,000 for an engine. I can see $2,000 to $2,500 for a complete engine with ECM and fuel system intact.

I would say stay safe at 20 PSI. Above that I can't tell you how much pressure it will take to blow the front seal out of the VP44 pump. Now if you capped the fuel line at the VP44 and then pressurize the line would be a different story. I would say then you can push it up to 40 PSI without damaging the plastic lines.

No longer exist anymore. Castrol Syntorque is no longer manufactured. Yeah, I know the AMSOil claim to have an oil that meets all the spec comes at quite a price. This is why I started breaking the bond of name brands and scares of wrong fluids. Basically what it requires is GL-4 lubricant. You can be anywhere from 75 weight to 90 weight gear oil. Like PenzOil Syncromesh is used in the NV5600 transmission but it doesn't meet the GL-4 spec because its too thin. It could be used because its designed for all the GL-4 specs like yellow metal protection which the syncros require. Like I said before people tend to favor the light viscosity of oil because of better shift performance. The down side is that it will become to thin in the summer under working loads.

What pump are you using? It looks like a regulator issue. Filter would fall to low pressure or zero under load. Electrical typically is really wild swings hi and lo. This mild swing up and down looks like a regulator sticking or hanging up and the kicking shut when the pressure falls and builds again. Be aware you can program the hysteresis of the gauge needle and slow the reaction time or speed it up. There is an extra plug on the back for programming.

Right the hell on... An actual photo of the Dripley and IBMobile... Heck, your longs ways from home IBMobile. I'm glad the Mopar1973Man is bringing people together and meeting face to face. What would of been crazy is tossing JAG1 in the pile. Two carpenter telling tales. Hopefully I still get the chance to meet you Dripley.

Out here a used Cummins engine are rare as hen's teeth and then cost a small fortune to just buy someone junk engine. Heck, they still sell truck up here for $15,000 and up yet. Man, I'd love to be able to find an engine like that to build for my own truck.

Heck I just used a normal propane torch and heated the crimp up good and hot and touch the solder to the crimp instant flow. Let cool and I was done. No soldering iron used. As for shrink tube I'm not worried being I've NEVER had battery terminal corrosion yet. Yeap, still got my factory battery cables and terminals in perfect condition yet... Just use a bit of engine oil that's all. Heck, you can even see the burn spot that my propane torch produced on the air tube.

180*F and 190*F are the normal book listing for thermostats. If you want a 200*F you have to use a 6.7L thermostat from like 2007 and up.