Mopar1973Man

Just replace the terminals. Go buy some military-style terminals and the cut off the old terminals. Solder on new copper eyelet terminals on the cables and just bolt them to the military terminals. While have the old terminal cut off take notice if the cable has corrosion in the strands or not. If so the cable got to be either replaced or trimmed back to get rid of it.

Bingo... Frequency range is only 50 to 60 Hz.

Typically the AC scale is in the 10 to 40 mV AC range. Be aware the meter has to be able to handle varying frequency. In other words, a lot of cheaper meters are designed for household 60 Hz 120, 240, 480 and up voltages. To find a meter that can measure mV range AC and any frequency it's a hard trick. That might explain some of the wandering. Because the ripple pattern is not a smooth pattern is a very random and choppy pattern the meter has to be able to work with that.

Don't feel bad mine was the reverse problem my went to full advance and barely limp me home at 30 MPH. No white smoke just lots of hammering and knocking. I did have a P0216 code only if you used a code reader. My failure I contribute to pure wear. 243k miles and like 11 year if I'm not mistaken. I'm not complaining one bit. I grew up in age where it was normal to pull an engine and refresh it at 100k miles. Now to have a VP44 that last 243k miles not a problem. As for protection... 14-20 PSI fuel pressure is optimal 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil optimal. (Bocsh requires <420 HFRR today fuel is ~520 HFRR) AC noise below 0.04 (40 mV AC) Double filtering is optimal 3-micron filters.

typically yes. I bought like 3 gallon yard sprayer and thought to mix up in that. Pump it up. Then spray the truck down. Little spray bottles work but the cleaner will eat the pump on little spray bottles.

Very nice looking!

Not a problem.

Error Codes (Deal with any codes present) Fuel pressure (14-20 PSI) Front suspension and steering (Inspect for damage or loose links) Injectors (If there is more than 100-150k miles) All fluids and filters changed. Engine oil Transmission fluid (and filter if applicable) Coolant flush Power Steering fluid Brake fluid Axle gear lube Transfer case (if applicable) Brakes (Inspection) AC Noise check

Look at B6 and B8 there are the turn signals. Again here...

Another way to just check is to mark your driveshaft and the tires. Now rotate the driveshaft until you make one revolution of the tire. The number times the driveshaft spins is going to be your gear ratio. So if you are a bit over 3 and half turns then you've got 3.55 gears. If your barely over 4 turns then you have 4.10 gears.

I promise the gearing will change a ton load of the EGT's really quick.

Might have to hook up for the winter time when deep cold sets in but only to start in the morning. After the truck is warmed it won't need grid heaters afterwards. I do want to resolve this issue and figure out exactly causing these issues and not just educated guessing...

Let's put it this way. Either change alternators every 4-9 months with the grid heaters hooked up and take the risk of excessive AC noise. Or... Like I unhooked my grid heaters and not looked back nor had any alternator problems. Another way I look at it. My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has never had an alternator replaced ever in 22 years. Wonder why? No grid heaters. Same alternator, Same make of truck less the Cummins diesel (grid heaters).

Yes. The Grid heaters can draw upwards of 195 Amps with both heaters active and the alternator only produces 140 Amps at 2,000 RPM but at idle it's much lower. So the PCM tells the alternator full speed ahead and ramps up the field lead to max voltage which now creates a huge load on the engine. Then when the grid heater turns off the PCM throttles back and the engine load decreases again.

This is a for sure solution. This isn't a for sure bet yet.

The only theory I've got is the heater elements are drawing more current as they age, putting this load on the alternator. The relay are just a switch if the contact were bad the current flow would be reduced just like starter contacts. But in this case the load is increased and alternator diodes are overheating and blowing out.

HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12).

Directly from Peter at South Bend Clutch. In Jan 2017 because it was Christmas I was coming back from seeing MoparMom in the care unit and in Weiser, ID the clutch slipped big time. Now its April 2018 and I've got over 59k miles on that clutch since I installed it Jan 2017. I've got 76k miles on the NV4500 since it was rebuilt. I've been traveling...

Yes sir.

Ahhh... That explains the roll over noise I got with my first Con OFE and the poly springs. My second clutch has normal springs and its silent.

Never did like that spray terminal stuff. Every time I lean over the terminal rub my arm on it end up with red spray junk all over my clothes and my arm. Engine oil leaves just a minor oily film on the terminals and will not get back you or your clothes. The felt pads don't do anything either being only protecting what its touching. So just the bottom of the terminal and the top of the battery.

Just looking more friction material. https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/1947-OHD-10170/ https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/1947-OFE-10171/

Looks like someone is due for filter change getting rather dirty looking...

Smoother I could understand being the OFE can be a bit grabby. The quieter I don't understand being mine is silent.

May I ask what the difference is? Where are you dyno'ing at these days?