Mopar1973Man

Minimum limits on oil pressure: 10 PSI at idle and 30 PSI at 2,000 RPM. Most likely bearing issue or piston issues. I was helping a guy with the same problem I can tell you that we went as far as pulling the transmission and starting with just a flywheel. After that we knew that its internal to the engine. Sorry to say I've never seen the out come of that particular case but I'm sure its bearings or piston issues.

Again another point, the two guys I did the replacements for, have some fly by night shop do the clutch replacement. Of course the shop pushed the ceramic for daily driving and towing purpose. Just because a shop tech suggest a clutch doesn't mean it the correct clutch for the purpose. Then again none of these people did any research on proper clutch to install.

Some people don't understand "For It's Purpose" that's why I had to post those pictures too many people thought ceramic clutches are for a daily driver or towing applications which both trucks were used for. This is only reason I'm bringing this up. Not to point finger at you...

Why I never put the straw in the basket. 12 years later still working just fine... No sunp needed and no straw in the fuel sender.

Kind of like when I replace a steering wheel in a Ford truck. Had all the same color wires. But, the colors went to different places year to year. I ended up pulling pins on the plug and sorting wire out going to all different places. You might have to break each connection and check for source signal and then find the proper lead to feed.

Another solution is an FM transmitter. This is how I do it in my old 1996 Dodge Ram since its an aftermarket CD deck. https://www.amazon.com/Doosl-Universal-Wireless-Transmitter-Adapter/dp/B018QN4INM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522242049&sr=8-3&keywords=fm+transmitter

Actually, the ABS module does. Then transmitted on the CCD bus. Then either ECM or the PCM can pick it up at that point. So that would go to the RAD box again.

After replacing two clutch because the owners installed ceramic clutches and seeing them only last 40k on both trucks and eating the pressure plate in both trucks. Not a good clutch in my mind. Friction disc was like brand new in both cases.

Interesting to say the least. I'm just sitting here thinking about all the people that bought the RAD box for TQ Management issues.

But it's not going to change the performance nor lube or cool it any better. Return port is on the left. So raising the fuel pressure above 20 PSI is not going to improve anything.

Interesting idea. Personally, I couldn't give up the center vents. I'm looking towards a flip down face stereo in the future.

My money is on this connection. I bet if you cut the fitting off and just hose clamped it temporarily it would solve the problem. Those fitting even back in the AirDog days in the early 2000's had issues.

I'm not sure what kind of connection fittings you are using. I'm using strictly Parker push lock JIC fittings. If you got any kind of Quick Connect fitting that will be part of the problem. The newer AirDogs I known use Quick Connect Fittings and are know for the o-rings to roll back and start an air leak only while pumping. Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performace about this he can explain it.

No change. I'm already in that position now. It has no effect on pressures.

As for the sump idea... At any rate the seal or o-ring will fail eventually on that sump. Sure would suck later in life that sump seal is no longer manufactured. Then end up trying to patch a massive hole in the bottom of your fuel tank. I've already had two people down this road and fought to replace the fuel tank.

Go to a true Alternator Shop. The report back the full load AC ripple voltage.

What was the final AC ripple voltage?

I cut my straw flat on the bottom with the thickness of a single quarter coin. I lightly notched the tip with an angle grinder. I did all my measurements on an EMPTY fuel tank this way as the fuel weight will bow the tank away from the straw tip. This way as the fuel tank empties it will pull the bottom up towards the tip of the straw.

If you are using your truck offroad at all I would steer clear of any sumps. If you hook that sump its game over for the fuel tank. Finding replacement fuel tanks are rather tough these days.

Might just consider upgrading to 4" exhaust that's all.

I would suggest the draw straw. I'm still using my 12 year old AirDog old school draw straw without issues. Matter of fact I rolled into the fuel station with a 1/8 of tank.

Would you mind contacting @pepsi71ocean and getting this information added to the database of ECM rebuilders? This would become very helpful to other Dodge Cummins owners that have failed ECM and needs it rebuilt. Nice to know there is several rebuilders out there that actually do good work!

I've got the same thing but no extra fittings really. Just the two male JIC fittings for the Carter. No it's not mounted on the block. It would hang in the AirDog location. Just swap power leads. But my AirDog 150 has been running non-stop for 12 years now. I've long given up on the secondary lift pump long ago.

Dang... I thought it would be some sort of data within the actual App itself. Oh Well...

Absolutely! That would be awesome if Quadzilla would add that.