Mopar1973Man

Today every thing is slick in Ontario but Tuesday and back was good. Frosty in the late evening and early morning for my travels.

Works good in locks assemblies and doesn't dry out. Then exterior locks it keeps them from freezing in the cold winters. Even my gate lock get a shot of this because last week the ice froze in it and wouldn't open at all. Now no problems. Like I said...

Arrrghhh! I've been running VirtualBox of Windows 7 for a long time but as of this morning, Microsoft detected a hardware change and locked my copy of Windows 7. SOB! Crappy MicroJunk software. I hate this about Microsoft product stupid activation locks that lock you out when you need to use your machine. At least Linux doesn't do this. Then Windows Crashed... Just flipping great... At least the Linux machine is still going. Now I've got to tear down the entire Virtual Machine start over and reinstall Windows, all the drivers, reactivate, reinstall all the software again. Big PITA for me. This one of the huge reason I walked away from Microsoft World back in 2012. Still, I would have to buy a copy of Microsoft Office Excel for one tiny tuning table... Rather expensive. Why not convert to Open Office or Libre Office which are free versions.

I think so... I've not read the page yet. It would be helpful to have the tool for diagnostics.

Maybe I should get in on the re-popping too? Seriously if it was summer time I would I could down the Cummins and then driver the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 for a week or so why the injectors are re-popped.

Not everyone has a dedicated device for this purpose.

Take some spray slicone lube with a straw and shot a good amount in the lock assembly. This should help a bunch.

Do you want to make some money? I'll sell them if you make them... Make an assembly plug for doing the Blue Chip testing of the VP44.

The whole thing depends on pressure stability. Larger fuel lines will have better pressure stability compared to smaller lines that will have drastic pressure changes from idle to WOT operation. Personally, I would use a slightly larger line than stock sized fuel line then pressure stability will be optimal.

I'll let you know... Connection to the tablet or phone is NOT required. It is required to change tunes or levels. As for connection issues I do have that problem myself you have to shut down and start up the app at least 5 times to get a connection. Then after that it works fine. That's also a good reason I haven't tapped my wire as of yet being I know the VP44 is going to hold up fine but I don't need the risk. There is other solutions. Level 2 only does fuel up to 100% without wire tap. Level 3 does full CANBus fuel. So in snow and ice conditions level 2 is a good one to limit back the fuel and keep things from breaking lose.

No. I never suggest that method. Disconnect the gear box return. Now with the front axle jacked up off the ground. Go lock to lock this will pump the fluid out of the system. Keep this going till the fluid is clean. Only takes a half hour and about 2 quarts. The gear box holds nearly a quart by itself.

I wish Linux guys like myself could use that tool.

He needs to flash it to v2 tunning...

Hmmmm... anyone around you with 2nd Gen truck you can swap ECM's??? If the problem swaps to the other truck then the ECM is damaged and needs to be repaired.

The article for the VP44 pins I already moved it for you just gotta add the update info to that...

Cam on the late series engine is the tach sensor. Crank sensor on the early series engines is the tach sensor. So both report the engine speed to the ECM so it can throttle accordingly for idle speed only when the IVS switch in the APPS is set for idle position.

@Bobalos could you edit this into your current article please...

Might be a good investment for the shop...

Remember as long as the APPS IVS (Idle Validation Switches) is telling it idle position then it all ECM software controlling idle speed detect from the cam sensor (later) or crank sensor (early). So the ECM attempts to make the engine idle at 800 RPM. The only thing I've found that may affect the idle performance is valve lash but this will not cause it to jump up 2,100 RPM. You might test for AC noise from the alternator it might be fouling the ECM ability to see the sensor correctly.

Pins are backwards yet. Remember your common is POSITIVE and the hi / lo are NEGATIVE.

That's the thing most are for the look not for the performance.

Bingo!

Like I said sometimes the fuse will crack and not blow. I've had the very same thing happen for the starter fuse and the truck won't start. The fuse was not blown just cracked. So could be something easy like replacing a fuse and moving on with life.

I'm going to bet the 50A fuse in the PDC Fuse #10. It covers everything you are talking about. Be aware these fuses can crack and appear fine but tested with ohm meter they will show an open circuit.