Mopar1973Man

Head light ground is in the driver side kick panel. Most likely either the headlight fuse is blown or the bulb is bad. Being that the headlight switch turns the ground off and on. Then the dimmer switch switches the ground for hi and lo beams.

Would of been a lot easier to just change the cam and gear case and keep the cam sensor.

I guess at this point its GM fault...

It sucks being I'm so used to leaving the engine in neutral and the Quadzilla is still cooling the turbo when I walk away. So now I've got to hold it with the brake shut it off with the key. Then tap the throttle to shut down the engine. Then place it in 1st gear and lock up. Typically yes, but they still can roll with a trailer attached.

This kind of goes along with @W-T was saying... http://www.mechman.com/hairpin-stators-1/

Posted the pictures sorry for the delay...

Denso is simple to rebuild with basic hand tools where the Bosch has all the diodes soldered in place. Denso diode pack. Easy bolt on part. Brushes and everything else is easy to replace. Something like this?

Bomb Bug strikes again...

Sorry, for the old links just the site has been upgraded several times so the URL's tend to go bad. But all the information is still here. We continue to grow and add more.

Site has changed a bunch since then... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/

Not a problem. I've got you configured now so if anyone posts on the "Diesel Auto Power Forum" it should send you a email notifying you of the new post. Trying to make communication easy as possible for you. Same to DAP and you as well Jacob!

Now posted up my Daily tune.

Like myself, I use Libre Office on Ubuntu Linux to produce the graphs.

@W-T I've converted your post into an article to keep for all to see thank you for the wonderful explanation of the alternator function.

I'm sure there is tons of drop light users and been burnt by the hot light bulb or dropped it and blown the light bulb out. Well grab your old drop light and buy a 100w LED light bulb. I'll tell you the bulb is super bright being LED it doesn't get hot enough to burn you. If you drop it won't blow the bulb out. I picked up 20-foot drop light and the 100w LED bulb and man I love this light way better than the expensive solutions, simple and cheap.

I'll tell you my opinion that this very scary times. Where cars are driven by computers and we all know how much computers can screw up stuff when they fail. We see that now with our own trucks even the simple electronics we've got. I don't like the idea of letting a computer make the choices of how to drive. I've been in several close calls in just this last year that only human nature and experience would keep you from harm. Something like this would of not been able to make those split-second choices and prevented an accident. I know Google has been working on their version of the driverless car as well.

With minus temperatures outside and IAT down to about 40-50*F will product idling timing as high as 16*.

Personally, if you looking for the optimal connection soldering the wires together is the best connection vs crimp connectors. I avoid crimp butt connectors being they are typically the weak point of a wiring issue. I'd rather have 1 continuous wire or solder and shrink tube the wire together. I've seen all kinds of crimp connectors with shrink tubing etc. Solder or welding the wire together will always be best.

You guys gotta see this. https://www.theverge.com/2018/1/12/16880978/gm-autonomous-car-2019-detroit-auto-show-2018

I really don't like any of the DDRP solutions. Simply the pump is not designed to be on the block it needs to be moved back near the fuel tank and all the fuel lines including the pickup assembly needs to be upgraded to 1/2" plumbing. Where the stock lines are 6mm ID and are too small from the get-go. Comparing 1/2" fitting to 6mm stock fuel line...

I'm looking at it from another angle of attempting to find a solution to the issue instant of limiting parts or pushing towards expensive solutions. I can provide that the diode failure is caused by excessive high amp draw on the system at idle. Like the majority of diode failure is caused by people in the cold country firing up and leaving the truck idle to warm up. This places large load again the alternator and the diodes get overheated from attempting to hold the grid heater at an idle. I'm doing some testing right now to see about resolving this issue.

Can't be done. Once the APPS sensor is return to idle the Quadzilla drops out and ECM takes over.

Yes, there is a 120 amp fuse in the PDC for the alternator.

I know what you mean being the amount of money I dropped in lighting for the front of the Cummins. I've got a total of $1,000 dollar in lighting sounds expensive but well worth as well. So I really do understand what you are saying in money well spent.

Typically I would dip the copper ends in flux and heat them a little bit to get the flux to flow into the strains of copper. The brush some flux into the copper lug and heat. Then start adding the solder to the lug and dip the cable into the lug and heat for a few seconds longer on the lug this should get the solder to start wicking up the cable.