Mopar1973Man

Still easier here... https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/ Five-year warranty against return failure... For $130 I hardly doubt you can get a used one for that cheap nor with a 5 year warranty.

All I can say is if you do install these, I'm going to be bright lighting you back with two 100w aircraft lights. Most of these have really poor beam pattern. Should talk to @Me78569 about the projector headlights way better, more money but excellent quality.

... but the cause could stem from AC noise from the alternator that creates more heat on the electronics and causes failures like this one. You'll need to call Module Masters in Moscow, ID and have them rebuild the ABS unit for $130. Then while that is being done then you need to have the alternator tested for excessive AC noise. Yes, you can drive the truck without the ABS unit. The only thing you'll notice is no cruise control, no speedometer and grid heater do not shut off at 20 MPH like they should.

Yeah... The HX35W is a 54/60/12 my current HX35/40 hybrid is 60/60/12.

The first number is the size of the compressor wheel in mm. The second number is the size of the turbine wheel in mm The third number is the size of the exhaust housing in cm 2 .

One in each front wheel bearing. Then one in the top of the rear diff housing. Only 3 sensors.

Biggest problem on dually truck is most people over inflate the rear tires making the ride very stiff and harsh. At 60 PSI you should be able to carry the full GVWR of the truck so this means you need to be below 60 PSI on the rear axle for empty daily driving.

There are only a few things that trip the ABS light that I've found... Bad speed sensor(s) Bad tone-ring or misaligned tone-ring. Metal debris in the tone-ring or stuck to the end on the sensor.

Yes sir...

Why I like @Dynamic he does the right thing for the owner. I knew we opted out of the whole lock up thing on my 46RE. I kind of knew about 2nd lock up on the 47RE (bit fuzzy) but now I learned about 48RE and 1st and 2nd lock up. That's Neat! Thanks for your knowledge on the topic.

There is holes in the cowl above. Just push out the rubber plugs and lift the push rods into the holes to remove.

Just a passing thought... When was the last time you wash all your coolers? I've been doing A/C repairs in the valley and had several people come to me saying that A/C was poor or weak. Checked everything and pressures is good but the cooler was plugged up with mud and bugs. I wonder if this is your problem as well. You going to want a high-pressure garden hose with a spray gun or remove all the coolers and radiator and clean all them outside the truck. Either way, if the coolers are pack with bugs performance will degrade. Just with my past trip back and forth to Boise at 100-110*F out I tend to power wash the coolers weekly by then after 1,100 miles roughly they are looking a bit buggy and nasty. I know this is not going to fix the slow towing up hill problem but it might just help.

As I thought deep pans with cooling fins won't cool unless you moving at highway speeds. Stock cooler is rather small and without a fan. It relies on the engine fan for slow speed cooling.

Sites I manage or have managed... http://idahoturbodiesels.com/ http://smartyresource.net/ http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com/ http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/ Specialize in Linux OS with Apache Server, MySQL Database, and PHP compiler or as some call it LAMP stack (Linux, Apache, MySQL, PHP). Then have better than 10-year experience in forum software (vBulletin, Invision Power Board, PHPbb, etc.) and CMS software (Wordpress, Joomla, etc.) Also have experience working with Shared hosting and Virtual Private Servers. My next dream is to start another business. I'm going to kick off my "web management business" and possible web hosting. I just got to put it together and get a domain name and business name.

I'm in the process of moving the download section from the old software to the new software. Trying to tie the forum to the download section properly so any updates are posted on the forum. If you follow the forum or the download then your notified instantly when updates of your Smarty files. In the mean time also attempting to get the store laid out so we can start moving the store items over and hook it up. Then after all that the old software will be no longer.

As long as the transmission is modified to lock up in 1st or 2nd gears. Other than that stock transmission only locks in 3rd and 4th. So if your road speed is way down there is no way to lock up still. So this now fall back on being able to dump the heat rapidly which is mostly the torque converter shearing the fluid. So back at the OP, we need to know if you modified to lock up in 1st or 2nd gears? If it's still stock transmission, there is nothing a lock up switch would have done. You would be still unlocked and creating heat. So either you can have the transmission modified to lock up in lower gears and/or add a larger cooler and electric fan.

The whole tranny temp problem is really common out here. There are roads out her with grades around the 12-18% bracket. Most don't have signs. People will attempt to drag large RV's or stock trailers into the back country and blindly end up overheating the transmission. Deeper pan with stock cooler just means you get to go farther before it overheats. Now if you have a stock pan and oversized cooler you might not ever over heat. It's about shedding the heat in the cooler with limited air flow. So an oversized transmission cooler and electric fan do more for keeping the temperatures down.

Typical idle speed is about 800 RPM's

I'll admit the work @Dynamic did do to my valve body made a huge improvement even towing with the 1996 Dodge. Hold back much better and pulls excellent without getting hot. I just ran it down to Boise on one of my trips and transmission shift good and crisp and holds back on grades nicely. As for temperatures I've not been over 190*F yet.

I knew the 2nd lock up... I've never seen lock up in first though. Wow!

Excuse me...1996 Dodge 1500 is a 46RE. I'm the one that took my 46RE to Jon and posted all the install and rebuild. I've got a modified valve body but without the 2nd and 1st lock up.

Sad part is lock up can't be done in 1st or 2nd gear. If you have a modified valve body you can lock up in 2nd gear. So a lock up switch won't do much good. I've not seen any that can lock up in 1st though. A better transmission cooler is needed possibly an electric fan as well being that mechanical fan most likely wasn't locked. Deeper pan just mean longer time till its hot and longer time till it cools. I would vote for bigger transmission cooler though.

Don't go there... Between the old hosting company, the new hosting company doing the transfer, then everyone changing ideas in midflight. Now we are heading in the right direction and at least the forum is back up and running. I'm more or less test driving looking for configuration issues and setting up all the new features for the staff. There is going to be a lot of teaching and explaining of features and how to use them. Still got a store front to convert over by hand as well as getting all the Smarty Flash files in the download area. Then get the static pages built as well.

Just to let you Smarty owners know... SMARTY RESOURCE is back ONLINE http://smartyresource.net

I would rather install a BHAF that even attempt to make the stock box work.