Mopar1973Man

Should get a email of what happen to the ECM so let us know.

If you have a live data tool or a Quadzilla you could verify the APPS signal for abnormal spikes or drops. It's possible to fail within specs.

Time to do a W-T ground wire mod if it has not been done. Ground on the VP44 and ECM are ran right beside the alternator lead and AC noise issues don't help either. Seriously I would look at doing the W-T ground wire mod and then look at the +12V side for corroded pins or sockets. VP44 get power from the fuel pump relay. ECM has constant +12V and keyed +12V double check both too.

@JAG1 I just got to got to Riggins ID and turn and go up Seven Devils Road which is 17 miles long to the end. Starting at a elevation of 1,800 feet and at the summit at Heaven Gate it just at close 8,400 feet. I can look from there and see you waving at me with a telescope. Heavens Gate is the highest point in all of Idaho and can see 3 states from that mountain top. I wait for your smoke signals when your in trouble...

If you find a good stater and alternator rebuild shop they do much better than any part store rebuilds. Like myself I use DuroBuilt in Nampa ID which does all rebuilds in store.

What worries me is the P0253, P1688 and P1689 which could be a bad VP44. Then the P1698 is the PCM not communicating...

Stellar idea. I wonder how much weight it can push...

Yeah I was squinting hard but still not quite seeing you wave...

Just a tidbit of info... I worked on a 7.3L with a grind issue. The flexplate was damaged around the ring gear in a about 3 places. I ended up replacing the flexplate. Shortly afterwards it start to do it again. Then found out there is a high torque starter and direct drive starter. We replaced the direct drive with a high torque starter and the problem stopped as far as I know since the owner moved from Idaho to Northern Cally. Cummins starters are all high torque starters. The biggest thing is having the solenoid contacts in good shape and the 4 brushes for the armature in good shape. It's possible the solenoid is getting weak or the solenoid linkage to push the pinion gear out is damaged causing a miss. I've seen even just loose starter bolts do the same thing. I've seen personal on Beast the contacts fail twice on the OEM starter. Then the last go around the armature brushes failed. This cause it to burn up the armature and cause a weak start. Another weird one was a NAPA rebuilt starter that got soaked with a diesel fuel leak and caught on fire and burned up internally. Yes it had smoke coming out of the drain hole in the bottom. Yes it was burning that fuel internally!

I had the wipers fail on Thor. It broke loose the passenger side wiper linkage. Be aware that system technically is not repairable like the old school truck where you could get the new plastic joint cups for the linkage. I ended up replacing the entire assembly as a unit for $250 bucks. Sad part is even Minnie it uses the same system and I had to replace a wiper motor. Cowl bowl was filled with standing water and rotted out the wiper motor internals.

https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/ https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/crm.asp?action=contactus <- Email only no phone number.

I'll admit I've had a few issues will seals leaking on my Blue Top Steering box and @Blue-Top Steering made it right again every time. I love my Quick Ratio steering box over any stock steering box. Super quick response. I'll warn if you running any tires bigger than 31" stock size do not use a quick ratio the stress will damage the steering box rapidly. I had this conversation with Blue Top a while back.

Keep us posted and we will continue to get you on the right track.

Just a heads up I've had a few members have issues later on after the injectors were built and have the pop pressure fail out. Like the one that sticks in my head was @pepsi71ocean had a set of 100 HP injectors and had then built and after 28k miles roughly the pop pressure dropped to 280 bar and created part of his stalling issues. Injectors will settle over time and drop pop pressure some more than others.

Yeah even though the electrical wiring is from a gas engine so that will cause problems. There is actually two separate wiring maps for gas engines and diesel engines. This can be seen in the Dodge FSM books that are in the download area of the website.

I love the LED bulbs I installed in my "Minnie" brand new headlight housings since the lens were fogged over. Then the Factory Halogens were well sub-standard. Then installed Amazon LEDs and love driving that minivan now. Since I normally don't travel in bad weather it works out just fine.

Nope that won't work. The cab should be swapped over to all diesel electrical and then the PCM should be from the diesel cab. Gas PCM runs way different software and electrical.

Ok a little education on CCD Network systems. First off remember that the PCM is the primary computer, not the ECM. So now the PCM wakes up and calls out to all the modules. This being ECM, ABS, cluster, stock stereo, etc. If there is any voltage issues on the bus it will fail to communicate. The bias voltage should be 2.49 and 2.51 volts when all modules stop talking. Now the bias voltage is created by the cluster. This means you need a minimum of the PCM, ECM, and cluster to operate the network. If there is any P1694 or P1698 codes then there are communication issues with either the PCM or ECM. Another thing is all modules are VIN locked. So making sure to have the ECM and PCM with matching VIN numbers helps a bunch and reduces the issues possibly. Make sure you have good solid +12V power to all modules, and no cracked fuses or corroded connections. Ground wise don't go running around grinding paint off the metal and redoing grounds. TRUTH! VP44, ECM, and PCM are grounded to the passenger side battery, there are no body grounds for any main modules! Don't waste your time doing all the body ground most of that is grounds for the lighting. Bad modules like a fried overhead console can and will make the CCD bus fail. The best thing to do is remove all the option modules like stereo, overhead console, etc. Again you need just the cluster, ECM and PCM and this should be all you need for fire up and no issues. If still having issues I would contact @Auto Computer Specialist and chat with them about this and possibly have the ECM and PCM looked at and tested.

Welcome to the family. We all can help in building up your truck just gotta start a new thread in the 24V forum. We can help you spend that money the right way.

Yup getting down to the bitter ends.

I would just go to a local part store and just pick up a radiator for your truck. I got one from NAPA for a fair price and works fine. I kept my OEM so I can get the tank seal replaced later on some day. 460k miles and still going today.

@IBMobile is a wizard with lock up switch set ups. I've seen his truck and it works awesome. He would be the best to chat with. Sadly I've never even played with a automatic and lock up switch.

If the fuse didn't blow out then the current is in check. But.... A weak connection will cause a connector to fail and melt the plug and burn the connector.

Driver side PTO plate I drilled and soldered a 1/8 inch bung into the PTO plate. Just below the PTO gear so the fluid is moving over the sensor.

I would suggest 315 bar for 7 x 0.009 injectors.