Mopar1973Man

Running a stealth plate for over 10 years now without issues.

I've stayed away from this upgrade. I will not upgrade to 3rd gen brakes. The reason being is your adding more rotational mass ot the axles and reducing MPG's. For every 1 pound in rotational mass added is like 8 pounds added to the frame. You might gain better braking now but the added rotation mass reduces power output and MPG number. Same reason I went down a tire size just shedding 96 pounds in tire mass gained me 2-3 MPG more. I did my first brake pad change at 180k miles... I'm at 277k miles now I just checked my pads yesterday I'm at 75% of pads remaining so I'll reach my 360k change mileage easy. Even my 1996 Dodge 1500 with auto went 160k miles on the factory pads with an automatic V8 gasser. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html I would rather reduce the rotational mass so the brake can stop easier than adding more mass and attempting to slow down heavier mass. This all comes out as heat.

New Performance Tune... +50 HP injectors, HX35W Turbo, BHAF, and 3" Exhaust. It still smoke-free. Pulls like a crazed mule. 3rd gear on dry pavement it will spin the tire just rolling into the throttle. MPG's are down about 2-3 MPG but the power is much greater. It stupid powerful out in the snow really have to watch your throttle foot closely it takes very little throttle to get all 4 tires (4WD) to light up even on wet pavement now. No problems with EGT's either very cool running. Power Levels: 7 Fuel Load timing: 2 Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3 Timing Reduct Scaling: 100 Light Throttle Timing Adv:2 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 Timing vs rpm 1500: 16 2000: 18 2500: 23 3000: 25 Timing Max: 26 Pump Stretch: 2000 microseconds TPS Pump max: 100% TPS Pump Min: 20% Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:0 Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 5 Boost Scaling: 40 PSI RPM Limit: 3400 Power Reduction: 10% 0 PSI %: 105% 1 PSI %: 106% 2 PSI %: 107% 3 PSI %: 109% 4 PSI %: 111% 5 PSI %: 112% 6 PSI %: 114% 7 PSI %: 115% 8 PSI %: 117% 9 PSI %: 118% 10 PSI %: 120% 11 PSI %: 122% 12 PSI %: 124% 13 PSI %: 125% 14 PSI %: 127% 15 PSI %: 129% 16 PSI %: 131% 18 PSI %: 138% 20 PSI %: 138% 22 PSI %: 142% 24 PSI %: 142% 26 PSI %: 150% 28 PSI %: 150% 30 PSI %: 150%

I think this "boost elbow" issue should be brought up to Spencer. I think if you buy a Quadzilla Adrenaline you should be provided all the bit and pieces for full install to make it work.

Just checked Quadzilla doesn't come with boost elbow I just checked my box... I was thinking I could give it to @Taz that need one for his 06 Cummins.

Not sure about the trailer specs it Tyler Jones trailer he wanted it loaded and hauled. So I supplied the Cummins using my RV 2 5/16 ball hitch. Still in all the power is great. I ended up losing my towing tune with all the phone switch I've done for MoparMom. So I'm going to rename my Empty Truck tune to "Clean Tune" being it works very well for towing too. Now I'm going to build a performance tune that is more aggressive like the Edge Comp was on 5x5.

I can tell you your going to have poor reading on that sensor. I would pull it back out and remove all the sealant tape and clean the threads and reinstall. Brass fitting are typically self-sealing.

Be aware of the thing other things P-pump will create issues as well. Also will not resolve electronics issues like the ECM and PCM. I would do two things... First pull all the injector have then pop tested then do a compression test. This will verify the injectors that there isn't another problem. Then compression test since the injectors are out and have the knowledge of the cylinder health. We've had one member here that had a cracked piston that created a odd miss. Now Once you go back together then do the hot wire test on "Blue Chips" page and see if the skip is still there. If the VP44 is damaged and you do P-pump do realize if you don't fix the problem your ECM and PCM will be next to eat the bullet. In other words AC noise issues..

Since everything on CR truck is part of the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) I would say the TIPM is maybe causing the issue. Fuse box and the TIPM are the same.

Like myself I'm in the Quadzilla game for the MPG angle and towing power. So welcome to the family I'm sure all these guys will help you out and get you where you need to be.

Even with just the Quadzilla Adrenaline, +50 HP injectors, 3" Exhaust, I'm tipping 40 PSI of boost. So, the guys are right test for boost leaks first. Most build a boost leak cap for the turbo and pressurize the system with compressed air and look for leaks. It going to have to be a regulated air source so you can hook up like 10-20 PSI and soap down the system and look for bubbles. Lot of them you can just hear the air hissing.

Been wonderful to run the tune I've got. I've been hauling hay for a job. Excellent power, still very smoke free for the most part. I do see a light puff of smoke but clears up rather quickly even towing. EGT's are still really low even running the highway at 60-65 MPH. Even climbing grades. What I've got on the trailer is five one ton hay bails. Still got enough power that in 3rd gear if I get into the power it will break the tires loose.

Polarity issues would have caused a huge explosion of sparks. As for the winch motor if it hooked up backwards it just runs backward so reel in is now reel out and visa vera.

Possibly motor noise from the winch tripped the lights.

If I was home i could do some digging but I'm in the field right now tending to MoparMom. Ill see what I can find.

Kind of like I'll get in McCall around January some time. Always has a warm up and the freeze again gets nasty up there for ice.

I run winter fronts some times as high as 70*F except I'm not towing. Towing and grades with winter front is dangerous...

Totally intergrated power module. It was Dodges way of controlling power to devices over the CCD network.

I could plug in at home but quit doing that. Great to have quick heat but always in the field with minus weather in the winter. Never have power in the field for plugging in. I've never had an issue starting or rough starts. Has to do with the injectors how fine you get the fuel atomized and grid heater function. Also I'm Not even using grid heaters yet. Not cold enough yet.

Even with minus temps I've never gelled up in 14 years. I use quality fuels and 2 cycle oil. Also using double filters on my fuel system. So there is no need for injector cleaners or cetane booster. PPD are typically high quality with the name brand fuels. Again 14 years never gelled once...

I've been dipping into the +10-20*F in the early morning hours.

I told you... Beating on any bearings is a bad deal...

Too cold... Need to get above 190 for better MPG..

Possible a seized caliper. Dragging parking brakes. I just did this yesterday were I drove off with my parking brake on (shoes wet) and started hopping violently at 25-30 MPH. Realized what I did released the brake and stopped hopping.

1400 microseconds... But I'm only running 6* of total timing. Wire tap isn't even used in my set up because my boost is below the trip point and I only give 5% pre wire tap signal. This is mostly CANBus and timing... 65 MPH giving me roughly 25-27 MPG 80 MPH still able to hold close to 22-23 MPG.