Mopar1973Man

The green wire varies the ground to vary the charge rate. Since the vehicles has current draws the alternator will always charge some all the time match current loads.

Be aware that if the battery voltage shows 12.00 volts it will show normal on the volt gauge. After the voltage falls to 11.99 volts it will slam the needle down to 8 Volts and throw the light and chime. Once the voltage rises back above 11.99 volts to 12.00 volts it will turn off the check gauge light and then show normal voltage. The only reason I know this is my USB charge point shows actual battery voltage with the key on. I can see actual voltage numbers on my USB port. @Tractorman is correct your best off with a Digital Volt Meter. You will be able to check each battery for its charging voltage. I've found several trucks that show correct voltage on the gauge but like the passenger battery is low like 12.3 volts and the driver side battery is 14.8 volts. This shows the battery terminals and/or cables are bad.

No change between the HX35W (54/60/12) vs the HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12). Spool is better on the HX35W and with proper tuning I'm running near zero boost at highway speeds. Watch my Tiktok...

Minnie (1999 Dodge Grand Caravan) I did a fresh set of headlight cases and installed a set of $70 Amazon LEDs. I went with mid-line bulbs. After replacing the headlight case where the lens were fogged over. Now the LEDs are very close to my HIDs but do have a hot spot vs HIDs are very clean light. Total was about $180. Took less than 30 minutes to change it all out.

Thank you @IBMobile that video is spot on... This is why I weighed my 31 foot Jayco before rolling to Cally to go camping with you boys and girls. With my RV fully load and myself in the truck my truck weight is right at 8,800 pounds. Then my RV comes in at 8,020 pounds. This is a total of 16,820 pounds total. I'm registered for 26,000 pound on my plates but I still check to make sure the truck or trailer doesn't exceed its ratings too. 2500 Ram - 8,800 pounds GVWR scaled 8,800 pound 100% loaded no more! Jayco Eagle - 8,500 pounds GVWR scaled at 8.020 pounds 94% loaded tight but got wiggle room just a little.

No. I'm going to pack up again and make my second trip to the moon again.

There are some of us that let there Cummins sweat horsepower. After 458k miles they tend to get well rather greasy grimey and dirty from being driven to numerous other states. 476k miles I will be to the moon and back.

@Tractorman could you clear out your PM box. I was going to PM you but its full.

Just to explain a bit... The first 02 sensor is going to create a mild lean rich sine-wave of signal. This is normal it will go rich and then lean and back to rich and continues. Now the downstream O2 sensor is expecting a typical lean signal showing the catalysis is function by burning the excess hydrocarbons that are coming out of the engine. When the sine-wave is seen in the second O2 sensor then the P0420 code is typically thrown for a failing catalysis since its showing that same sine-wave downstream and the cat is functioning. @IBMobile posted is true I've seen a video of this showing the code issue and then using two spark plug anti-foolers it will help correct this issue.

Sorry for the down time on the tunes we had some internal issues here. I will be working at resolving this Monday morning.

Jon did the transmission in Lil Red which was my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 46RE which he upgraded to a 47RE and make it shift strong.

As long as the cam cover is complete flat you don't need to replace the cover. The gasket is a slip on o-ring and you use ZERO sealants. Just reinstall and properly torque the bolts evenly. Nothing more. I've done at least a dozen cam covers in my time and never had a return leak yet. The key to this is cover is flat and not warped and that you instal the gasket the right way. NAPA has a small tab stating which way toward engine. I've never had the need to install a aftermarket cam cover yet.

More like a bad cam sensor it's about a 15 minute job to change. I just changed mine last for the first time for lack of tach signal. Be aware if the tach is dead then the alternator is too.

Then why is USFS burning hundreds of thousands of acres of forests that destroyed all the trees, a lumber industry, price of lumber is high. But every forest fire produces more CO2 in one hour than my truck will in its entire life time. 747 Boeing consumes 5 gallons of JET-A fuel for every mile in the air. Jets are polluting more than any diesel truck. Propane is just a good at promoting early ignition on a diesel hence why the propane has to have a regulator and then some sort of control valve to dust the intake with the right amount propane to what the throttle is able applied. Then this would be a optimal setup but I don't know of any propane kits that are this in a package.

Take in account every biofuel of any type has less energy than petroleum (gasoline or diesel). When they introduced ethanol to gasoline it reduced the BTU's of the fuel. Same as when Oregon mandated biodiesel to B15 IIRC (125,000 BTU's per gallon) it has less BTU's than straight diesel (135,000 BTU's per gallon). So I'm not a believer in any alternative energy fuels.

You can Thank @Honey Badger she was the one that suggested I do reviews of products and post them up as videos and/or articles.

Yup. Now I can handle all the rust locked fasteners on truck frames like anti-siezed buttered on the threads. Kwel magic wand eh?

Yup. That is spot on.

Problem isn't the water... The problem is being able to deliver lots of amps of power to create enough HHO to make it viable fuel. Back in 2008 there was kits for diesel but they were needing at least 100 amp to make enough hydrogen to make it worth while. So what current load that on the alternator would be used by the hygrogen fuel to power its self and bit more diesel. That was the entire problem with hydrogen genrators trying to create enough to be consider a fuel source on the intake. As you seen the small bubble was a pretty violent explosion for just a small bubble. It would take much to blow the hood off your truck with a leak and spark like on the slip rings of the alternator. BOOM! You don't get something for nothing... Thinking you can create enough hydrogen it will never happen being the alternator load will always cause a loss. Remember one thing man can neither create or destroy anything. Meaning that even though you converted water with electricity into the two gases hydrogen or oxygen. Then burn the hydrogen it will convert back into water again. Yes its bio-friendly but creating enough explosive hygrogen and not blowing up your truck doing it. Just like propane injection that is another one used to gain MPG's being the propane fogged in the intake will promote complete burning of the diesel fuel. @MnTom back in the day was making high 20's MPG on his truck doing Propane injection. Me... I want to do high 20's without drugs (no propane or hydrogen). I've touched there but cant always keep it but I'm going to continue to work at getting closer to that goal as a constant.

Nope... No need for those things... Now I might be doing that... I'll make sure to smoke it outside. Heck look up the HHO plans you can produce from water hydrogen and Oxygen with a little electric current. Less toxic like the draino and tin foil idea...

I picked this tool up off of Amazon for about $179 dollars. Now I've used torches for heating bolts and fastners in the past and end up burning rubber parts or wires etc. This tool I used yesterday to remove a rusted Pyrometer fitting from a 2005 Dodge that I wanted to install a new pyrometer probe. Being I didn't record that in video I created a quick TikTok for posting this up today. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086BQJD85

Then there are some of us that live off a 4kw solar system and only live off 30A service for entire house. This is one reason I would never own a EV. Being my system would never be able to recharge a EV even the current draw would be too much and the system would never handle it. Most of my travel I'm upwards of 300 to 400 miles a trip just for food and supplies.

Leave the heavy red wire to the PDC alone don't remove it. Goes from the driver side positive to the PDC this is the main power lead to the PDC.

Double check the pins in the OBDII port I've had one pin push out and not make contact and cause this very issue. Pop the socket from the dash frame so you have a bit of slack. Then check each wire and you find one that pulls out really easy and the tab that locks has most likely bent just enough not to stay locked.

All I would do is shut the fiel off when it's running and run the fuel out off the carbs. Then unhook the battery and that's it.