Mopar1973Man

The whole valve thing was only for a few years then I know like 2002 does not have it at all. So it was a idea that was short lived and soon forgotten.

The only way to verify if it fixed electronically is to have it bench tested on Bosch 815 test stand which is at least 3 hours from start to end. Last that I know that Blue Chip does not have Bosch 815 test stand.

This is not a good sign to see black silicone. Most likely a used PSG unit and might be damaged or bad flash on it. Truely unmolested PSG unit should be like your old unit where its all clear.

Possible a bad pump?

Remember that auto part store testers test at full load of the alternator. We'll test at resting state idling. So the numbers will be very different.

I'm lucky one then... Rarely ever barrowed. I managed to sell my service of splitting firewood.

Like i had a conversation with @JAG1 about the ground. I typically do not suggest adding extra anything for wiring. Like him I told him to double check again on the ground. I bet the case of the alternator has a thin lacquer coating and make for poor contact. So I suggested to lightly sand the contact points of the case and the test patch. Now I bet the ground plane is improved. You can add the extra grounds but you must remove the wiring mods and filters BEFORE doing AC noise test. These mods will cover over the problem giving false good results on the test. Its so common to find over on CF of all the TQ conv problems and there is one guy fight a random issue and the alternator is passing the AC noise test. Now remove his noise filter, extra ground, etc. Now it fails absolutely. So extra grounds will not solve the problem with bad alternators but it will mask the issues long enough which in turn gives better chances of ECM, PCM or VP44 failure from excessive AC noise in the power. So this why I don't suggest it because I want to see the noise sooner than later and deal with the alternator issue quickly than having it masked and slowly killing the computers.

Basically the higher the pressures go the warmer the discharging temperature. Example: Normal house refrigerator would have a low side of about 2-5 PSI. Our A/C typically is about 35-40 PSI max typically. Again look at the lo side temperature ring and you'll see lower the pressure the colder it gets. Again there is variance in pressure because of outside temperatures and vent temperatures in the cab. So initial startup of the system with high cab temperature might cause a spike in the hi side pressures as well driving up the lo side some. As the cab cools then the pressures will fall. There is fine line of balance between undercharge with compressor cycling and overcharge with the low side flooding out. It's also possible to see the compressor spit. Typically this occurs on a hot day and initial start up the lo side might have liquid or oil and compressor will near hydro-lock and spit out the pop off vent in the rear of the compressor. Sign you gone way too far.

This is where experience helps a bunch in adding on top of existing fill. You base off of pressures more so but also have ot be aware of outside temps at the time. Like This morning I've got to run and do another A/C job this morning. It will be cold when I do it. Current temperature here right now is 46*F. So now the owner admits they added to the system but not work quite right. Small sedan car. So max rule for me is 1.5 can to 2 for a full load. Now considering pressure and temperatures just gotta work with it. Like my previous example it can't always base on pressures.

@IBMobile post is correct. Now this why to some degree you have to look at both measurements weight of freon vs pressures on the gauges. For example the Subaru I repaired yesterday. It had a bad expansion valve. Regardless of the failure I had to completely purge the system to do the repair then recharge. Now on the radiator support it states the amount of freon in kilograms of 0.6 to 0.7 kg. Each 12oz can is 340g. So that means 2 cans should be on the mark. Now in the case of this Subaru it does not even come close to normal table pressures. At full charge it was 28-32 PSI low side and only 120-150 PSI high side. Outside temperature at the time was about 75*F. Vent temperature hovered at about 44*F on high fan. So the table is a good reference but in the same token if you not aware of capacity you can potentially overcharge the system attempting to reach a pressure that is unreachable because of design. You can see the expansion valve needle stuck open...

I carry full coverage on both the 2002 Dodge and my 2000 Jayco. There is other reasons behind the full coverage.

Green line is a vent vacuum. Black line should vacuum source. I font remember the rest.

Check your pressures again then do like @IBMobile suggested too.

Sounds like your rather pleased with your new truck there Dorkweed. I'm curious of what the life span is like for he newer gasoline powered trucks? Another thing I'm curious about what is the oil change interval like too?

Personally with +50HP injectors you fine with a stock turbo. Larger turbo is just going to increase turbo lag and smoke during launching.I think I remember @Wild and Free running +100 HP injectors with his HX35 turbo back in the day.

Some of the test are ohming from point to point. Them the the other test is ohm to ground looking for shorts to ground. so that why it seem weird probing the loom and then ground with both unhooked.

Might want to do the AC noise test.

I know a few "green horn" hotshot drivers that destroyed a clutch rather quickly from reverse loading of the disc like KATOOM mentions. When you towing heavy loads like 20,000 pounds you cannot just simple clutch in, gear down and ease on the clutch. Because what's happening is your attempting to use the clutch like a brake as you re-engage the friction material. Lot of the fire trucks I drive are older transmissions that either non-syncro'ed or just super old and tired. You learn quickly how to RPM match. It's all about reducing the initial contact stress, once the clutch if fully clamped by the pressure plate then the clutch with withstand the load. Of course as long as you are not gearing down too hard for said load.

Just looking over the price on reclaiming machines which is outrageous. Like this little guy is nearly $500 and prices go as high as $6,000 for the fancy computer device ones. Most of the machines are not very portable with weights as high as 200 pounds. Even the simpler one are nothing more that compressor than pumps freon from the system back into a storage vessel. So... Say for example your compressor was low on oil and created a bit "black death" (wear debris) in the system. So now if your hook up and reclaim that without knowing you've just contaminated your storage vessel. So now all you freon in your storage vessel has wear debris in the freon. Now it unusable. I would much rather vent to the freon of and use fresh "clean" freon back in a vehicle knowing there is absolutely no contaminates in the freon being used in the system.

Yeah, Yeah, EPA this, EPA that... I'm sorry but if I was to hit a deer tonight my entire load of freon will be dumped into the atmosphere. If I T-bone another vehicle again freon is lost. So why create material that common to buy in part store, no license or training required to use. Think of all the older vehicles with slow leaks and everyone pumping cans of freon into there systems. Where is that leaking freon going? You got it... Into the atmosphere. You might want to look at what it used for... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane

I've got my tire pressures figured out for these tires and set the pressures at 60 PSI in the front and 40 PSI in the rear for daily empty truck travel. Then towing the trailers its 60 PSI in the front and 60-65 PSI in the rear. I've got close to 1,000 miles on these tires so far and doing well. Very low noise if any at all. MPG's are still great capable of tipping 24-26 MPG empty running.

This is all I'm using is 1/4" x 1/4" hardware mesh. Little stiffer than window screen and easy to work with. Do not attach any screen to the condenser itself. This will in fact rub holes in the tubing and later cause leaks in the system. It best to attach the screen to the grill this way it never makes contact to the condenser or tubing. Yes you can recharge the system yourself after replacing any A/C parts but you'll need a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set. The vacuum pump is to draw a vacuum on the system to remove all moisture from the A/C system before charging. The the manifold gauge set always you to monitor your hi and lo pressures while charging. This is really close to what I current use to charge A/C systems gauges are bit more fancy than mine are...

Now you know what I've got hardware mesh zip tied to the grill on the inside and then tuck hardware mesh in the bumper holes. This is to possible prevent object like stones and large bugs like beetles hitting the condenser and bending the fins over. Yeah simple things like this can make huge improvement. For the cheap fix would be to do like @leathermaneod did and carefully straighten out all the fins or the quick way is to just replace the entire condenser for around $100 bucks.

Or... Just give me a shout at (208) 628-3645 we can talk about it.

Just thinking about this @IBMobile might be a good idea of teaming up building a new A/C article built around both of our ideas. It would be awesome.