Mopar1973Man

So now you can understand why both Wells and OEM APPS are so expensive because of the electronics that do the job of flip flopping the IVS switches. Now as you see the Timbo's is very very simple design and no electronics to control the IVS. All mechanical device.

Go ahead and give me a shout I'll help you out. My Sunday has been more of house cleaning and shop cleaning most of the morning. Then haul up the mountain and clean the silt away from the dam wall intake. Like a rain forest up there grass and ferns are like 4 foot tall and really super humid near the creek. So now I'm just hiding in the house out of the heat (95*F). The teeth on the piston that's from excessive slop and the teeth banging back and forth. I kind of figured that the file wouldn't do much being all the parts inside the gear box are harden steel.

So far looking good. I'd say the pitting in that shaft is no problem it not in the seal area. So it should be fine. As for some of those internal pics can you imagine someone swapping a new power pump on and having that stuff flow through the new pump. Ugh... As for the pin as long as it holds to the valve collar it should be fine.

0.01 to 0.03 is typically good. 0.05 is marginal some have reported odd behavior issues. 0.1 is a fail... My first alternator was a bad front bearing. My second was a bad case and allowing the rear bearing and shaft to bounce making random AC noise issues. Then last one was causing the cruise control to rev and drop randomly. My cruise is fly by wire not vacuum. So my first test was unhooking the alternator field on my way home. Problem gone. Then hooked back up and tested I got for sure a mid 0.3 AC volts. Even NAPA bench tester failed it too.

Here is the video on how to do the AC noise test... As for the P1689 code here is the article on testing that out...

On site search engine is not that great... As for Google its just now catching up with the article section and posting URL's for it. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/ The only full map right now I got is the 1999 year. I will do more of the wiring maps this fall and winter. The link above should take you over to the article section under engine and electrical.

I got the new parking brake shoes installed and the new brake cables. Sad to say I did make a bit of contact with all 4 shoes. Parking brake drums where OK and I'll just re-use them. Personally if I had a shop that could turn drums I would of had them cleaned up. Both rear cables were shot and binding up. The few things I learned about this is double check the place and rotation of the adjuster. In either side the adjuster is turned away from the axle to tighten the shoes. Also pay close attention to the lever side and the shoe placement really easy to miss the notch. As for adjusting the brakes like this time I adjusted till they stopped and backed off about 2 clicks still had a bit of drag. As for the cables I found a small secret for getting the old ones removed easy. There is 3 locking tabs using a flat blade screwdriver press the tabs in on the 2 hardest tab on the easy one swivel it to the notch and it should slide out. Cable slack adjustment took me a bit of playing with. I wanted a good holding power at about 3/4 to nearly full pedal. My driveway was a perfect slope for testing and adjusting on. I wanted to make sure not to over adjust and be stretching out the cables.

Ok... Before replacement I need you to verify the alternator noise voltage before you even go down that road. Now if the alternator passes and still having issues then the only thing I can suggest is finding a ECM rebuilder and have them re-man'ed the ECM. There is no more new ECM's to be had as far as I know.

Seriously it looks like @JAG1 and @IBMobile had fun on their camping trip. Where was that at?

I would... Just out of the sake of the rust and the threads are going to be weak now. Oh when you ready give me a shout I'll guide through the rebuild of the box.

Might be time for a bit of propane heat to the pitman arm.

Now I know what happens when you mix Oregon member with California member you end up with... "No time schedule, just sleep, eat, fish, shoot targets and bullshit." When you mix Oregon and Idaho Members you end up with work, work, work, "Oh where does this go?" plink down the intercooler tube it goes on someones black Dodge with a camper... Seriously JAG1 you know I'm yankin' your chain nice and hard there...

The injector o-ring seals the fuel return from pumping into engine oil. The copper shim is a multi-function part. It seals compression gases to fuel return, transfer heat from the injector tip into the coolant jacket and set the spray depth in the piston. Crossover tube o-ring seals the return fuel rail from leaking on the manifold. Little better?

Injector o-rings would push fuel into the oil. Crossover tube o-rings would leak fuel onto the manifold.

Turn it down till your comfortable with the spray pressure. Soap feature on some pump require a soap nozzle like mine has a high volume soap nozzle.

Most likely the White Dodge in the video... LOL.

All right here on the site in the articles section.

I would assume so.

Thanks Bill that is rather nifty way of modernizing an older muscle car with a bit better transmission performance.

Still curious about the Chevy lockup conversion though... Neat to see people cross breding parts and making them work for older vehicles.

Typically there is a black knob that says "Regulator <- down or up ->" I would just turn it down to a level that is acceptable.

Sounds like the spring collapsed or it jammed... Might take a rubber hammer and rap on it a few time from the opposite side to see if it falls out with a bit of shock.

I never bother to cover my filter with a plastic bag. I just spray around the filter and attempt to keep it from getting wet. Afterwards if I have got it wet, I just leave the hood open on a 90-100*F degree day its dry in no time at all. Sorry Tyler for you misfortune still not as a bad as feeding a turbo a hose clamp.

Shouldn't. It's only a 5V circuit. 3 wires are 5V, signal to ECM and Ground. The other 3 is IVS with two 5V signal only one will ground for throttle and then flip flop and ground the other for idle. Really simple device.

Mopar Man isn't allowed...