Mopar1973Man

Made a phone call and asked Abe at Weller Truck about the working limitations of the fluid and had him look it up for me.

Really killer setup... I like that!

I think the TPS buffer idea is the best so far. Wrapping my brain around the idea.

No. Harm. Just like pulling the fuel pump relay.

Early morning spelling error with a cellphone...

Maybe a good reason "Diesel" my dog goes with us everywhere. No one wants to attempt to deal with a smiling dobberman puncher. Then all the locals know I open carry a 9mm pistol not many people like the odds.

Dave the only differences will be trailer weight and road speeds. BigTex is a 7,000 pound GVWR typically haul it up hill empty and down hill loaded. As for the RV I'm right close to 8,000 pounds but typically avoid interstate travels. So in either case max towing speed will not exceed 65 MPH typically. Gear ratio wise my 5th to your 6th are basically the same as my 4th to your 5th are both direct. So from that point on its a matter of driver, weight, speed, and other factors.

Yes... I'm running Mobil Delvac 50 SAE Synthetic Transmission Fluid GL-4. Also you right the Mopar Fluid is 75w-85. http://pds.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_Synthetic_Transmission_Fluid_50.aspx

Quadzilla and Edge Juice both can read the fuel temp.

True story the only thing that saved my 1973 charger from being stolen is I had a set of gauge mount below my stereo in a wood box. The stole the entire wood box and yanked out the power leads to the amp gauge so the car went dead. Still in all you got to make your defeat device very hidden. If they can figure it out its stolen. If its hidden good and can't be figured out the valuables of the cab will be stolen most likely. If they really want the truck they will load the entire truck on a flatbed and tow it away.

Again it needs to wire to complete the signal. Remember mine is only one wire looking for a ground path. It will crank till the battery is dead because the VP44 is not powered up. Single wire is really easy to hide where 2 wire of heavier gauge will be a bit tricky.

Both... As they increased the amperage of the alternator the wattage gets higher and heat becomes the issues on the diodes. As for the electronics they are just simple computers like your laptop or cellphone. Now try charging your cell phone with a bad charger and tell me what it does to the cell phone? So the ECM has everything just like a laptop. A CPU, (Hard drive) which is a PROM (Programmable Read Only Memory), then RAM to excute the software from once booted up and interfaces like MOSFET's turning power on and off to different things. VP44 is it own standalone computer with its own PROM, CPU, RAM, etc. Since you can do the BlueChip hot wire test this proves there is some logic there to control it as a standalone.

Wood hauling season is just around the corner. I'm just waiting for the rain storm to stop here and I'm packing up to head out cut firewood. So lots of steep climbing, trailer pulling and working the truck.

Actually I think most failures are more AC noise related than actual heat related. All the people in southern states with unruly high temperatures in the desert and like I do here in the Riggins valley reaching over 110*F just about every year.

Yes. But there is only one case in 11 years have I ever seen a P0168...

Quick connectors... Like I said grease the male fitting with thick axle grease if the problem goes away the connectors need replacing. It's a known issue. Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performance he'll tell you about the suction line issues with quick connects.

Like the last few days leaving early for New Meadows and having morning temperature of 45*F it takes for ever for the transmission to warm up. I'm really not wanting even think of installing transmission coolers. The few months of hot weather here isn't going to be enough to even require coolers I really doubt it so far. Even while I was towing I only bumped the 190*F climbing a grade with the RV. With a fluid failure point of 300*F I've got the warning light set for 220*F yet. Some how I think I'm never going to see that light pop on.

Quick connect fittings? If so try greasing the suction fittings and seeing if the problem goes away. If so you'll need to convert from quick connect fitting back to Push Lock JIC fittings.

This why I typically start with cheap stuff like checking fitting and for air leaks before buying part or even o-rings. Like on a AirDog with quick connection fittings I found that a small amount of axle grease on the male fitting will help seal up a troublesome air leak.

1, 3, 4 should be fine... Optimally is 1, 2, 3 because its every other in firing order. 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4

First off let me say... I've followed some of the advise here and double checked a bunch of stuff. The transmission is over filled enough that the sensor is submerged in fluid constantly even in 5th gear and transfer case in neutral. As for the shift quality after nearly 1,000 miles already is still really tight feeling and not sloppy. As for transmission fluid temps empty running I see no more that 130*F tops at 68 MPH after 40 miles of driving even climbing grades. If the morning temperatures are down around 45*F it takes nearly a full 20 miles to rise off of the 100*F mark of the gauge. At midday with 75-80*F temps outside its barely reaching 130*F with flat travel might bump 140*F if climbing a 7% grade.Remember this is all empty truck and no towing... Now you might question the number of the fluid temps from the gauge I've used 2 different thermometers to verify the temperature reported by the gauge and alway darn close to the same value. No I did not install fast coolers nor did I change anything since installing the transmission on the temp gauge other than adding enough fluid to keep the sensor submerged. As you see the first few days after the transmission install MPG was bit low. After working hard and pulling thee RV down south and back which would say the break in period of the transmission occurred. Now with the job I had in New Meadows, ID and running back and forth to McCall climbing a 7% grade doesn't seem to bother the MPG's like in the past. Other that that I will say I'm pleased with Weller Trucks transmission rebuild it very tight and precise feel in the stick now compared to before. As for the transmission fluid I would have to say at this point of the game which is early yet but its a good solution for future fluid for NV4500.

Absolutely nothing wrong with that..

Nothing will keep it clean it just going to have to be a maintenance thing that when you change fluids you need to pull the sight glass and clean it. So I would say without the reflector...

??? I wonder if it is a compression / blowby issue? If there is enough pressure in the crankcase then it would force the oil out through weak gaskets and seals. Thinking out loud...

I've seen this happen when people do the hammer method they end up beating the trunnion into the opposite side and dent the downside bearing cup hole. Then you end up using files to straighten out the holes again then hone the holes smooth. Just make sure not to over do the holes with either a file or hones you still want to have good press fit for your bearings.