Mopar1973Man

I normally take a bit of PB Blaster Silicone spray and shoot the key lock with a burst in the key hole. If the key switch is wearing out you can easily replace it. Last one I bought at NAPA was right at $40 buck which is fairly cheap I'm sure you could do better on RockAuto.Com. As for the multifunction switch check for power black/violet, red/grey and also the pink.

Bingo... Batteries are better off slow charged anyways. Rapid charging batteries is hard on both the alternator and the battery. Even after couple hours of driving the batteries on the RV are typically back up within 80-90% of charge. At least speaking for 2nd gen trailer sockets its wired hot constant so even after the truck is shut down the main two batteries will continue to balance with the RV's two batteries.

Down on the tail harness there a 3rd Brake light lead bundle in the loom. When the guy install my canopy he hooked up the 3rd brake light for me. All I can say its near the trailer plug. Check local laws. At least here in Idaho on highway use you are allowed only 4 bulbs burning. So in my case its 2 headlight and two fog lights. Which I created separate hi and lo beam fog lamps. Again here is my method of reverse lights... As for the moon visor I have little idea. I know the lighting circuits are already marginal so if I was to pull power I would most likely go after the trailer relay.

The APPS is dropping out of normal operational range below its lower limit... Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when the engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

I don't have any wires hooked to the batteries of any of my accessories. Just a few hook to the PDC (AirDog, Fog lamps, and Cab Accessories). I've got both. I've got automatically with my reverse light but can manual toggle on with a cab switch for hitching the trailer. Yes it would be best. I added a relay back in my driver side tail light area. I tapped the trailer power +12V and got trigger from the reverse light leg. That way the light come on with reverse but the toggle in the cab just bridges the reverse light switch on the transmission giving optional control for hitching with out having to shift into reverse and shutting down the truck.

Typically you should have a fuse or something limiting the charge or current flow to that circuit so to protect from over loading. I wouldn't use much more that 10-14 AWG wire for charging the RV batteries. Like even the Dodge trailer plug is only a 10 AWG cable and again limited to 40 Amps on the trailer plug. Even my RV with nearly dead batteries never draws hard on the system because of cable and fuse limits.

No. It will not draw more that the fuse will alway typically like for my RV its got a 40 Amp fuse for the trailer plug so its below 40 amps because it never blows the fuse.

Nicely done... I likey!

For me that where I gain my most MPG is in town rolling slow. I get seriously high numbers like 30-35 MPG. The only difference is most of the small towns don't have traffic lights. So if you plan your travels right you can travel town with little to no stopping.

Not all... I've done my research here and some of the Mom and Pop places don't have filters or also using screens. Now most name brand places have standard and will keep to those standards typically. Even worse some are still using mechanical pumps with mechanical price boards. Those I don't even stop at...

Seems fine to me...

There is no reason for a 5" unless you like it loud and lots of drone. For most of use that are daily drivers like myself there isn't much of a gain going even to 4" pipe. I'm still very capable of turning 20's in MPG with stock 3" and straight pipe setup with a flow through muffler (NAPA). Like myself I typically below 600*F EGT's for most driving and below 5 PSI of boost so there is no real back pressure issue.

Catch me if you can... Warm IAT temps are back and low cetane fuels have returned...

Another way to test for that is just unplug the APPS sensor and start it up or hot wire the VP44 then the APPS is removed.

No kidding. I was looking for two control arms for the truck I'm working on and I can say is there isn't much for parts here in Idaho (Boise Area). Doesn't matter if its a gas or diesel most of the bone yards are getting rather empty of Dodge Ram's.

I moved it out so the count number shows now. I had in hidden in the Social tab but the count never showed....

I've got a 4 terminal barrier strip. Basically 12V+, Key Power, Dash Lights, and Ground. So this ground goes to the dash frame. All my accessories are powered by this strip.

Very, very impressed with the idea of the bolts. Like I told @bms231 I'm going to purchase a set of bolts for this reason and keep them in my toolbox for future jobs. I'm sure soon I'll be doing more gear case resealing. Then his idea of pressing the speedy sleeve on with the damper. Again another very smart idea. So I got to give Brian a big High Five for great ideas neat tricks and idea!

Hey now. Old rigs are cool. I use to be a big fan of the 1970 cars and truck till I sold them all and upgraded to 2nd Gen collection.

I've got a funny though its something wrong with the valve body. There is 2 sets of springs for 1-2 shift and then 2-3 shift I wonder if one set of springs is damaged and its up-shifting too early against a damaged spring and the down-shifting because the pressure fell sharply. Educated guess...

But you can verify your current injectors for a either a very low price or free. Like my local shop with pop test for free as long as there is no adjustment of the injectors.

I told him he's suppose to catch the parts as they fly...

Here is a pic for today... A little vehicle line up. Excuse the haze skyline USFS is having fun with prescribed burns all over the place and the valley fills with smoke every evening. Ugh!

Hey don't knock my redneck carpentry skillz. If JAG was around I could get a killer bracket that was done in oak or something stylin'. At least the tablet isn't sliding around on the floor or the seat. I did a run down to Council, ID today and was OK with the location like I said the stick in 5th gear blocks the view really bad on the left side. 1st and 3rd aren't too bad. When I'm cruising town its viewable. Again I really don't want to be looking too much at it anyways. There is two things that tablet is doing... Providing me a good trip data logger. Providing the stereo MP3's through the AUX jack. I've been working with OBDLink staff to getting things added to the software like speedometer calibration and a few other things. I'll start another thread and show you...

You can help it a bit by customizing the throttle valve cable a bit. Get it to be close to what you want.