Mopar1973Man

Try me...

My self I would most likely opt to either buy some plexiglass and cut my own fender trims and paint them. Or another is to go to aluminum shop and get some nice diamond deck and cut that to fit. As for the plastic it is lighter but UV tend to make it brittle over time. Don't feel bad I've lost a door holder latch. The one on the driver side of the RV that holds the cargo door open.

No pipe dope is need on those fittings. I highly suggest against using pipe dope and sealant tapes on fuel system fittings because all it will take is small bit of teflon tape or pipe dope to get into the VP44 and plug a passage or gum up something. If it does make it past the VP44 then you have it in the edge filter of the cross over tubes or in the injector itself. Not a good thing period.

Enuf said...

Pretty home... Fire hazard though. (Sorry the fire fighter in me comes out.) All the debris piled in the valley of the roof, hanging moss in the trees (great for ladder fuels), trees in close proximity to the house, etc. All it take is one ember to drop in that pile on the roof or ground fire to climb a tree and light that moss... Poof! gone...

Should be able to print the entire page if need be... I know its not the exact year but should get the transmission stuff right.

This might help....

Heck we topped out at 75*F today at the house. I actually was driving around in the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 with the air conditioning on. Go figure. @Buzzinhalfdozen I got to say that is a huge problem with "Global Warming". Might want to find Al Gore and have a sit down with him and discuss this "Global Warming".

Like my truck the only time I break above 195*F for any length of time is towing in the summer time with temp in the 100*F range. Other than that typically hold close to 195*F. So cooling factor really isn't an issue at least for me.

Valid point...

I typically just buy the NAPA brand stuff since that's all we got up here. I don't go out of my way to hunt for name brands or the OE stuff any more. Most of this stuff is all China made so it doesn't matter any more.

Right where the transmission meets the transfer case you'll see a groove from the shaft area down to the ground.

MN is snow Silver Bay, MN - N45.4663147 W92.7507563 New Meadows, ID - N44.9701276 W116.2921788 North / South relationship is about the same but I'm sitting here cooking to death at 66*F as I post this.

Valid point...

Time for you to climb out of the freezer... Wow! By next weekend I'll be mowing the lawn here. This weekend I've got to head up and turn on the water for irrigation.

As for governor pressure sensor and solenoid. If the transmission is launching in 2nd gear if in Drive. If you place it in 2nd gear it should down shift to 1st and then launch. I will advise that if the transmission already has 100k miles I would consider contacting Dynamic and talking to him. Like myself I had a local shop install the governor pressure sensor and solenoid for $500 bucks and then 4k miles later the transmission dies because the torque converter is shot. What I'm saying is if the transmission already high in mileage and showing signs of wear it might be worth having it rebuilt. Like in my case it was quite the difference after Dynamic rebuilt mine.

Yes you can replace it. Just like Nick said just pull the transfer case then pull the seal and drive a new one in. Also there is no need for the gasket in between the transfer case and the transmission there is a drain hole in the tail of the transmission.

Not a problem. Just quicker to grab the phone and tell ya than type all that again.

I normally do it on the COLD side so if the fuse blows out then the Comp goes off to. Then this way it is fused.

Hmmm... I normally don't go shaking all my electronics. I would hook it up and go for a test drive. Power in the cab fuse panel, ground any where on the intake manifold is fine, CANBus plug, MAP sensor plugs, and your wire tap (optional).

Yes. Like this... Screwed together and tighten no tapes or dope used. No leaks either.

Typically with brass fittings they are self sealing fittings. Rarely use any Teflon tape on engine fittings.

From what I know that oil temperature follows coolant temperatures pretty close. So most people in the winter have issues with Cummins engine even getting warm enough to produce heat in the cab. Personally I would expect a bigger following from folks in the southern states. Now if you got a talent for aluminum and welding I would add blow tubes there the bottom edge of the pan so air could blow through cooling the oil. Like what some of the deep pans for transmissions do.

Most likely on the bottom of the APPS sensor.

Here is a 6 month old Moog... http://imgur.com/r/justrolledintotheshop/R4d3rys