Mopar1973Man

I'm just use to the power my 02 makes. Feels a bit slow comparing. Truly not a shabby engine at all just needs a Smarty for some pick me up power. Oh the owner was super pleased his comment is its got way more power than it did the day he bought it. (It should now the rail pressure is holding up!)

Problem solved. Well kind of... #3 injector line and crossover tube is rusted together and the crossover tube nut is loose. I managed to tighten the cross over tube nut and problem is gone. So to resolve this permanently would require cutting the high pressure tube near the nut and removing the entire unit. Then replacing the crossover tube, nuts and high pressure line for #3. I would like to suggest to the owner that all the injectors still get tested and at that time we can deal with all the rusted lines and tubes (if any more exist). I got to admit it runs very well for stock 05 Dodge.

Every thing I do is at least 100 mile day of driving. So getting to operating temperature isn't hard. Even my short days just going to Riggins, ID and back is 30-35 miles. Still get to operating temperature.

There is a lot of here say of red dye being low sulphur fuel or better lubricity. Sorry to say all diesel fuel from 2007 on is ULSD (Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel) 15ppm. This includes even red dye offroad diesel. There is even today people make claim of LSD (Low Sulphur Diesel) still being sold at the pumps because the sticker is still there stating such. Since a nation wide change over to ULSD I seriously doubt there is any LSD left to be sold legally.

Like myself. I live up here in Idaho and can get temps as low as -25*F. Sub zero. I attempt to plug in if possible. If not possible I start allow the high idle software to do its job for a short bit allowing the engine oil to warm just a weebit. High idle either 6 or 3 cylinder typically can heat coolant at least 1-2*F a second. Once coolant reaches 80-100*F I move on. Oil temperature will be really close to coolant temperature. ZERO to 32*F I'll fire up and allow a little idle time not much more than 1-5 minutes tops. Just long enough to gather things I need for the day. Above 32*F I fire up and just leave. In all cases I'll drive easy and light footed till the coolant temp crosses the bottom end of the normal span, which is about 165*F and then on to normal speed and driving style.

As for what CSM posted is more of a engine coolant than a RV water system antifreeze. Typically I just use compressed air and blow all the lines out dry. This year being a bit of hurry to beat a freezing night I quickly blew the lines out and loaded with RV antifreeze. Problem with RV antifreeze if there is still water in the lines it will still freeze solid might not expand or as much as water alone would. Typically I spend a better part of a day cleaning out, blowing out and shutting down the RV for the winter. Personally even RV antifreeze I'm not fond of because of the smell and possible after taste you might get.

70*F in Riggins back down to 48*F and cooling rapidly tonight. Suppose to start raining and snowing very soon.

Popping fuses tells me there is issues with motor drag. The motor is drawing more and more power to keep pumping.

Last I heard for Idaho it's $1,000 per gallon of red dye in the tank.

Here in Idaho there is no difference between red dye and on-road diesel fuel. The difference is the TAX. So taking the risk using red dye and tax evasion and the fines that come with illegally using red dye fuel are up to you. Personally I won't use red dye like what I see here locally stored in rancher drag tanks. Typically quite dirty and end up doing more harm to the fuel system. One of the local ranchers I changed his filter and the bottom of the stock filter can was nearly 1/2 inch deep in dirt in the bottom. Another member I know of had access to the red dye tanks on a construction site and ended up ruining a VP44 from all the dirty fuel he was getting. So your source of fuel is very important and it should be filtered from the dispensing pump. Lot of the drag tanks that I've seen are not filtered.

Back up to 55*F high temps... Snow is gone...

Some info I didn't add... Didn't figure it was important till find more odd stuff. I was going to attempt to remove number 3 injector. I everything dealt with right down to exhaust rocker removed and loosen the 8mm bolts. But the injector lines wasn't wanting to come loose. I could move it a little but didn't want to damage the injection line which was turning with the compression nut. So I just reassembled it gave up for the day. It started and roll outside and died. Figured just air bubble. The owner and I just pushed it back and gave up. Tired and didn't really give a darn at that point. This morning I wanted to move the truck. Didn't want to start. Purged the low pressure system. Cycled the key a few times. Presto it started. I figure I let it run a bit. Talking to my neighbor that pulled up. It only ran for a minute of so and started loping. Then died. I'm assuming now that #3 injector might have or be the issue since I disturbed the #3 injector now its not running long.

Ok. Direct fuel rate for our trucks. As for the volumetric that is your offset to adjust the MPG number to get calibrated. As you change up or down it will change the MPG number for offset.

Cardian Joint shouldn't move either.

Ok. What I've done was borrowed a known good FPRV and installed it. The original lift pump would only produce 5 PSI with just the key on. The new pump would produce 12 PSI on key on. So we kept the new pump. Start cold and had good rail pressure 6,000-7,000 PSI idling. Now unplug the FCA the pressure jumps up to 17,000 PSI little more rev and easy 20,000 could be reached. So we left the truck to idle and warm up. As it warmed up the rail pressure faded out rapidly as the coolant temperature rose to 160*F by the time it hit 180*F is was back down to 2,000 PSI and starting to lope again. So we ended the day by pulling the new FCA, left the new lift pump in, and removed the borrowed the FPRV. I'm going to assume at this point there is a cracked injector body. It the only thing that makes any sense at this point. There is no oil growing and no outward leakage of fuel. So the loss of rail is going into the return to the tank. What's your thoughts John?

The only issue with smaller pumps like 95 GPH and 100 GPH you typically see a wider range of pressure change 3-7 PSI. Now a larger pump say 150 GPH which is very stable 1-2 PSI change from idle to WOT. Volume rate of the pump equates to pressure stability.

Here is the link for signature for you... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ Not really. Some software don't have a lift pump signal at key on and other like mine only have 1 second burst. That's why you watch the fuel pressure gauge after starting. If the pressure is between 14-20 PSI then you fine. At key on doesn't count. Also any time your testing for the WTS / Lift pump you must leave the key OFF for at least 5-10 seconds for the ECM to shut down. If you cycle the key too rapidly then the previous booted software is still use because it never completed so you might not see a lift pump burst or a wait to start light.

Agreed!

Hmmm... What choices do you have for fuel rate? VIN is available on later years of trucks. Our is buried in a special hidden area.

Its both... Going down the road WOT it maxed out about 40 MPH. Power dropping out. Come back home sitting in the driveway it quits firing in burst. Surge and lopey idle which you can see rolling up and down in rail pressure. I'm starting to think the rail pressure regulator is purging pressure off. I don't have a test plug yet. Can't remember that was a week ago. All I remember was it was the FCA. I check codes and basic stats before touching anything on the engine. First day I see the truck it had the code and rail pressure was low (4,000 to 6,000 PSI) barely do 60 MPH then. After laying in bed think about it last night and the fact if you disconnect the FCA there is no change in rail pressure tells me the FCA has been wide open all the time and the rail is purging out through the regulator. So if the flow rate is high then the lift pump most likely can't keep up. So I'm going to try and create a test plug or something for the regulator temporarily to see if the rail pressure pops up.

Lift pump voltage is correct. it should be a modulated 50% duty cycle during cranking and 12V when running. If the wait to start light is not coming on the ECM is not booting up. Basically brain dead. The first instruction typically is throw the WAIT TO START light and then check IAT temp and grid heaters. If no wait to start light then there is internal memory issues in the ECM and never complete its boot up process. As for what might be messing up the ECM is the alternator. If the alternator is creating excessive AC noise it will kill the ECM. Here is the engine wiring... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring

On the front of the damper there is 2 tick marks and you need to check and see if the two tick marks are still lined up. Auto. Hmm... As for the shifting that I'll leave to "Dynamic" he's the site tranny guru. Might as him about the shift issue and the flex plate.

Yeah its true... One big family of Cummins owners.

Stock everything. No tune. Stock fuel system. Fresh filter. When it drops below 3,000 PSI it becomes lopey and you can see the rail pressure bouncing. As it quits firing and the rail builds it pops again with a surge and rail drops again. Cold it just fine runs good. But the fuel pressure is also good too.

Flex plate issues maybe? Damper on the crank good not slipped?