Mopar1973Man

Cold start it actually retarding timing because on MPG mode there is no timing rattle. Where without MPG mode it sound like a mechanic with BFH trying to beat his way out.

Kind of like myself I just had a meeting with the owner of the 1995 Dodge here in the tyard. I went and meet him at his home in New Meadows. After liking over the work and test driving I've been given a free rein on this truck. His goals is to have a safe, functional work truck that is presentable to a customer. All my hard work has landed me into more work than I know what to do with. There is no issues with me picking out parts or my design ideas. So here I am jumping in the same basket like you guys. Working the web site, local jobs, and taking care of the home front...

Personally from my stand point I understand why police officers are trained to react quickly. In the same sense they have to remember where they are at and who they are dealing with. In this case to me (personal opinion) the training kicked in and the officers reacted as trained and returned fire from where the initial fire came from. Again if the officers where more relaxed then this might not of happened. Also is the same sense if they are too relaxed a criminal might get the jump on them. I've seen several younger officers that act very strange. Thinking everything is a bomb or a booby-trap. Like an example a kid left his jacket on the library return box outside the library. The officer took a stance of protection over a kid jacket. Really? But that what they are being taught...

I found a video long ago that a get hooked a pressure gauge to the heater hose and it would top out at 30-40 PSI of pump pressure. I can't seem to find the video now.

I now the block heater cord on my 2002 Dodge is shot and open current. As for my 96 Dodge the element in the block is open and no functional.

What happen that I was told of tonight. There was a vehicle accident vs. Bull. Now the bull was getting aggressive and attempting to get at working crews. So the deputies attempted to shot the bull to put it down since it had broken legs. The farmer went back to get his rifle to put the bull down. When the rancher pull the rifle out it case it discharged for some reason and the two deputies spun and shot the rancher. The wife came out to find out what the shooting was a about and the deputies jumped the wife not knowing who she was come running out the dark. I guess she had a heart attack on the spot when she found out her husband was shot. (Disclaimer: This is all here-say posted above past on to me by other locals.)

Does the meter have a low 2mV or 2V scale setting?

I agree its just crazy expensive and the leak part is what I don't like. What if you do blow a hose while travelling you not going to be able to carry all the needed coolant with you because it special. This why I run universal yellow coolant because I can use any coolant with the yellow without mix issues. Out here when there is a failure you might have to use what ever the passing rancher has in his garage. As for needing fancy coolants like the one above or HOAT? You don't I've gone 255k miles now on generic coolants last batch was nothing more than WalMart Super Tech Unverisal Coolant, Previous batch I ran Prestone which is the same as SuperTech unverisal yellow. First 100k I ran standard green coolant with no issues. As for distilled water its never been use at all on this truck. I've use creek water from my irrigation system and well water both and no scale build up. I can say I've seen scale build up on vehicles with distilled water too. Typically the owner over extended the coolant (ran it too long) and the pH turn corrosive and then the scale starts. The mineral/scale build up can come from dissolved metals in the cooling system. So distilled water will not promise that your system will be scale free.

Check this out... http://www.ktvb.com/story/news/local/2015/11/02/isp-investigating-officer-involved-shooting-in-adams-county/75036826/

Good article! Thanks Cowboy!

Kind of hard to see what the rubber part condition inside the master cylinder. You have to disassemble it to see. Same with the caliper seals impossible to see the seal inside the calipers. You have to disassemble the calipers to see if there is any debris behind the pistons. Seal kits are like $3 per wheel.

I missed it... I thought there was a decimal in there. Look again he's set to 500V AC scale that meter will not work. You need a meter that starts at 200 mV AC or at least 2V AC.

I've only seen one boost failure and it was a pure and simple torn diaphragm in the boost and had a huge vacuum leak and wouldn't idle properly. Very roughly and easy to stall. Hard pedal tells me possibly there is a vacuum issue to the booster. Now with the color of the fluid I've seen it local where someone added a petroleum product to the brake fluid and made a mess out of a 2012 Ram brake system. Fluid was pitch black and most of all the rubber parts were degrading. The owner got lucky and flushed the system and inspected all the seal replaced what was bad. Petroleum products in brake fluid degrades the rubber but also makes it swell and bind up creating a hard pedal. I've only seen one boost failure and it was a pure and simple torn diaphragm in the boost and had a huge vacuum leak and wouldn't idle properly. Very roughly and easy to stall. Hard pedal tells me possibly there is a vacuum issue to the booster. Now with the color of the fluid I've seen it local where someone added a petroleum product to the brake fluid and made a mess out of a 2012 Ram brake system. Fluid was pitch black and most of all the rubber parts were degrading. The owner got lucky and flushed the system and inspected all the seal replaced what was bad. Petroleum products in brake fluid degrades the rubber but also makes it swell and bind up creating a hard pedal. Like on my truck as the fluid ages the fluid turn more of amber color but not black.

Nevermind... I'll stick to my old way of doing things... Holy cow my pockets are not that deep...

Basically any rubber part that is in contact with the contaminated brake fluid should be inspected and repair if needed. I would rather inspect all the rubber and find out nothing is wrong. It would sure be a horrid experience being in an accident because you didn't take that last step of inspection. The black fluid has me very concerned. Booster is pretty simple device either it works or it don't.

I would flush the entire system out. Black fluid means it might be contaminated with petroleum product of some sort and its attacking the rubber. So This means disassembling the calipers and the wheel cylinder if drums. Replace all the rubber parts. Might have to replace the master as well.

I think about 70k I think I got to look in my maintenance logs. I'll take a look... I've just done my flush so it will be another 2 years. The other problem if I need to top of mixing with other product will most likely wipe out its protection. That's a another job I got to do in the summer time more so. I get mud piled up about 3/8 of the way up the bottom of the radiator.

I need to get the stuff right now its more or less crunch time to get everything done before Wednesday. By Wednesday we are going into the freezer for temperature so it was easier to just flush it out and change it that to drive all over attempting to find the pH additive up here or order it. I still want to do a coolant filter set up but I need to get the free time.

Articles was updated... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/133-cooling-system-flushing

I've got the plug order up at NAPA. I just got to get them sometime and do the work. I've got to cut the plug off the end and re-wire a new trailer cord on. Then rewire all that mess in the tube.

The BigTex in the photo above.

On the software it will do the look up over the internet for you as well. So it gives a P number and brief description and then you can do a look on the internet of more information. I'll see if I can produce a few screen shots for you.

I've travelled a total of 255k miles now and been keeping up on my coolant flushing. This batch was over extended and shows it in the bucket the color was starting to shift just wee bit. As for the radiator and block still going strong and very clean! Still using universal yellow coolant and doing just fine. Don't need any fancy orange HOAT. Lookie... No scale build up!!! 255k miles and like a factory fresh radiator. Block is even clean yet and just a surface rust like back from my previous picture shoot.

Man this sucks I just finally got back to the fuse blowing problem on the trailer and found out what happened. Standing at the rear of the trailer the 3rd right center marker light decided to spit the plug and allow it to bounce around and melt the wiring out. Oh Great... My yard mule for trailer work.

It might... If the AC noise is there it will be disabled and will not have the lock up issues.