Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Injector Line or Injector failures Grid Heater Light If your grid heater light comes on while driving is a sign of a high return rate to the fuel tank or the fuel pressure in the rail is dropping. In my case, I was traveling towards McCall ID and climbing a grade with my utility trailer. All of a sudden the grid heater light comes on and chimes multiple times. Which I thought was weird. I had to complete my climb up the grade for a safe spot to pull over. Once I did get pulled over I shut down and looked there was fuel everywhere. I the grid heater light comes on while driving I highly suggest you get to a safe spot and shut down as quickly as possible. Checking The Injector Lines Now that I've got the truck home in the yard. I took some time to re-prime the rail and get it started. Even with as big of a leak, it was very possible to prime the rail fairly quickly and start the engine. WARNING: Being fuel is present and fire danger is always a risk make sure to have a fire extinguisher handy that is rated for fuels and oil fires. WARNING: Do not put your hands near the injection lines while running. High-pressure fuel injection injuries are very painful and can cause serious infections. Please keep your hands away from the lines. Use cardboard chunks if you want to see where the fuel is sprayed from. Once the engine is running look closely and you can see which line is spraying fuel. Again do not put your hands or body near any spraying fuel. If it's not possible to start because of too big of a leak you can order a rail plug that you can remove one line at a time then cap the rail and see which line is leaking this way so if the line you remove is plugged and now it starts it could be the line or a bleeding injector. I know this is kind of tough being every time you open the rail to change the plug you have to reprime the rail. Just as you'll see in my video first turn of the key the ECM will do a prime cycle, after the lift pump stops, just bump the starter again it will re-run for the next prime cycle of time. Make sure you give time to let the pump prime the system and allow for cool-down time on the starter. Installing Number 4 Injector Line It is pretty straightforward for installing the number 4 injector line. Count back to the number 4 injector line from the front. Now you'll need a 3/4 inch wrench and a 10mm socket and ratchet with extension. First, remove the two 10mm bolts one in the manifold just under the injector line nut at the head for the intake manifold cover and the other 10mm bolt holding the number 4 injector line. Now Using the 3/4 inch wrench loosen the two injector line nuts and remove the injector line. Install in reverse order. -
Not always true. One of my first mods to Beast was a set of DiPricol gauges. First haul I did was over Horsebend Grade which is 7% and the truck was pure stock yet. I had the cruise set for 60 MPH which is speed limit of the 7% grade and the EGT's was climbing over 1,400*F in stock form. Stock form without any tuner or injectors I would see 600*F after coming off the highway and stop for fuel. Even today with my last trip to Bridgeport, CA I was pulling the RV and heading up hill even with my tune the EGT's was still 1,000*F easy. But even when I can to a stop the EGT's could be as high as 500*F when I stopped for fuel. That was 17,500 pound total weight pulling up to 7,500 feet of elevation. Basically the same but running EGT's are much lower with my current set up but the heat soak of the cast iron takes time to cool off.
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Here we go... I got the GoPro camera set up and using the head band for the first video clip. Please don't judge to harshly my video skills are rusty and need to learn more about the camera so I'm shooting from the hip this time to get things started. So the story line behind this video is the last trip on Friday I was heading out to @Honey Badgerplace to help with yard work. I loaded up my BigTex trailer and had my lawn mower, weed wacker, and ATV loaded. I was heading up the canyon toward New Meadows, ID and the grid heater light popped on and chimed multiple times. I knew the grid heater light is a sign of high return flow or loss of rail pressure. When I got the chance to stop and shut down the engine was covered in fuel being the line is under pressure and spraying at better than 18,000 PSI. I jump back in and started and ran for home. Now the GoPro came and I did my first youtube video. Basically got the truck primed up with a hole in the line and then fired up and look and see with the camera on my forehead. Sad to say it didn't see the leak on the video. So I grabbed the selfie sitck and stuff the camera back down and shot a second clip showing the leak running. @dieselautopowerhas been called and #4 line is coming.
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I'm not sure if you have date codes but check the date code. 5 years plus is an issue.
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You would have to look at cost of fuel, MPGs you'll have under load, and total miles, then what you time is worth. For me I'm currently starting out at $3.00 a mile.
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I do it the way the factory did it, grey silcone sealant and that's it.
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Be aware the dust lip will groove the crank but that is just the dust seal part the actual seal is curled inward towards number 1 cylinder. Make sure to get a NAPA seal being they have the proper installer sleeve for getting the seal over the crank. I Cummins seal installer isn't set up correctly and more than likely you will just fight the install till your damage the seal lip. This is a Cummins front seal and notice the sleeve inside is straight bore you'll never get the seal over the crank. NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPGTCS46174?impressionRank=1
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I just use the standard front crank seal on mine. No nee for sealants or anything just tap the seal into the cover and then install the gear case cover with grey RTV sealant. If you have a bad groove get the front seal with a speedy-sleeve and install those as a set being the seal is just a bit bigger for the sleeve. Oh if there is a speedy sleeve already you'll need to score the sleeve with a chisel and the dig under with a flat blade screw drive and tear the sleeve and it will pop off. Done one on a Ford 7.3L for a rear main seal job.
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I've seen the vacuum pump bolt back out and start weeping oil.
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Added load of the A/C pump running then the added heat of the A/C condenser on the intercooler.
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No. Even today I ran to town with just 1/16 of a tank and still only 110*F fuel temps being the hot fuel isn't near the draw straw fuel temps are still lower.
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UPDATE! GoPro camera showed up late last night I charged up all the batteries and check all the accessories I bought. This is prefect for a camera. All kinds of mounts and for your body or on the vehicle. I did a quick test video last night and the GoPro can be ran from my cellphone even editing on my phone. I've got to play catch up with A/C jobs locally. I'm going to do a test video in Beast to town. Let's see how it does.
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Either you forgot the o-ring on the injection pump. Was installing the VP44 easy where is just slides in or did you have work it in with the nuts.
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I'm using 350°F for cool down. Little trick for manual trans just leave your exhaust brake off and decelerate using the gears you can suck the temp out of the engine. Makes it so the timer isn't used much or have instant shut down. With my cool EGTs very rare indeed to wait much for cooldown.
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Or upgrade to an exhaust brake having better braking power. Best part brakes last over 250k miles if used properly. No added rotational mass like you end up with on heavier rotors, which will lower MPGs as 3rd Gen brakes will do.
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Actually that extra return flow allows for polishing fuel by passing fuel thru the filters multiple times. Since I've got both the 3um on the AirDog then 7um in the stock filter. Most fuel is return to the tank again and again. This is called "Polishing your fuel".
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Chassis saver is bit cheaper and quotes that it can be painted over rust which might be good. I'm going to still going to pull the bed and whiz wheel the rust.
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No it's the fact that line in not bent right then not supported properly and the the injection pulses causes the line to crack. So, I've been digging on the web and NAPA I think I'll be calling @dieselautopower to send me a full set of 3rd gen lines.
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I'm also guilty of this too at times
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I've seen several poorly cut straws that cause all kind of issues. Most commonly is most cut the tip at an angle or line an inch from the bottom. Thickness of a quarter coin is all you want. This must be measured on a empty tank and the tank sitting on two 2x4 at the band location. Just sitting the tank on the ground will skew this measurement. The end must be a straight cut. Optional is lightly notching the tip no more than 1/8 to 1/4 inch most.
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Yeah it wasn't a good day at all. Just the fact I paid $50 to get me close just get me to McCall ID for fuel by the time I got home I wasted most the fuel all over the highway. When I get back home from here I'll have to get it started one last time and to see which line blew out and order it. Funny feeling its #4 cylinder that everyone complains about.
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Cutting straw wrong will causes these issues. I've ran the the empty mark many times. The measure gap between the straw and a empty tank should be no more than a thickness of a quarter coin. Do not measure this with fuel in the tank because weight of fuel will change the amount of deflection of the bottom of the tank.
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Well Thor went down today. I was packed up to go up to Lake Fork to @Honey Badger place to do my weekend project. As I was climbing to New Meadows i had the grid heater light come on and chiming multiple times i got to a safe spot and shut down to look. Pop the hood and there is diesel fuel everywhere. I knew that i blew a injection line. Quickly hopped back in and fired up and got rolling for home. Thor was bleeding pretty bad that I wasted 5 to 7 gallons of fuel getting back home. By the time I got home the front of my Big Tex trailer was dripping fuel off the front. Well I guess there is going be an article on doing this repair too.
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BHAF will run 100k miles. Worth it!
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After talking several members that opted for the drawstraw in the sender basket they have more issues with hot fuel temperature being the returned fuel is from the back of the head is going to be hot like the temperature of the head. Most were reporting fuel temperatures well above 150*F and dealing with asphaltenes and the filters fill up quicker than Beast does just because of fuel temperature. Being the fuel temp is lower the PSG unit is kept cooler and extends the life of your VP44.
