Mopar1973Man

I understand that too. Because the fact again I'm not planing on super long extended oil changes. But also I do understand the function differences of bypass filter vs. full flow that include a bypass valve. I would never want to run a filter to full plugged state either.

Dang you did well...

Trust me Wild & Free I really do understand. That's why I'm looking for a economic solution to this. I could do the redesign my current Frantz Filter and fix its flaws. Or consider a spin on bypass filter that I can get locally. I got to admit the spinner is a nice idea but once again has a few flaws. Initial cost can be rather high for them and also now back to a messy job of cleaning it up again a possibly a leaking o-ring later like my Frantz filter was doing when I pulled it off. The bonus to the spinner is technically there is nothing to buy for the spinner other than o-rings as they wear out. That's why like with the fuel system even stacking two average fuel filters in line is better protection than just the stock filter. So even with stock full flow filter the bypass filter will pick up the other stuff the full flow will not. Of course down to a limit as specified by the design of filter. But even over on Bob the oil guy they are saying as the filter start to fill with debris the filtering ability will improve. Bypass filter don't have a bypass valve like full flows do so they just plug up and quit flowing. I know soot is smaller than 8um but again I'm not going the long haul super extended oil changes.

Well... the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has a 46RE trans at 159k miles and only required a governor pressure sensor and governor pressure solenoid. Sad to say there was some debris in the pan but still good condition.

I just spent some serious reading time over on "Bob's the oil guy" and the Common answer to Cummins bypass oil filter is either Baldwin B50 (Wix 51050) or Frantz Bypass (TP filters). Very few people seem to favor the AMSOil bypass because of the cost. Most go with the spin on filter because it much cleaner to deal with a spin on filter than opening a can pulling oil soaked TP roll out. Spin on filters are more commonly available to get without mail ordering. But there is always a argument on how the AMSOil bypass is so much better rating. Like most that do go this route are looking at cost of operation and maintenance TP filters are the cheapest to use, the Wix 51050 is next in line. Like myself I'm not really into the whole super long extended drain intervals just want to give some extra protection on filtering the oil. Like most use the blood cell measurement at 6-8 microns. Most full flow filters are at 20-30 microns. Now lets convert this... 30 microns = 0.001181102 Inch (1.1 Thousandths) 20 Microns = 0.000787402 Inch (0.7 Thousandths) 8 Microns = 0.000314961 Inch (0.3 Thousandths) 6 Microns = 0.00023622 Inch (0.2 Thousandths) 3 Microns = 0.00011811 Inch (0.1 Thousandths)

Kind of like the 3 micron Donaldson Fuel filter I got that still passes debris to my stock 10 micron fuel filter that seem to catch it. The way I look at things a second filter just that extra chance of catching debris in fuel or oil. Like most say I should have it the other way around stock at 3 micron and AirDog at 10 micron. But as you can see it does do something for the fuel. As for longevity the VP44 is still going. Now why wouldn't a 8 micron bypass filter work? When most full flow are more like 20-30 microns. Just another change at picking up some of the debris. I'm still going to change oil at 7.5k to 10k miles.

Sorry to here that... Hopefully you learned how to protect them better. Are you staying in touch with LiveOak (Randy)? He seems to be doing really good.

This is one topic I really hate to jump into I always get met with AMSOil dealers and pusher. (sigh)

Site is backed up every day... You can see where I did a forced backup. No. I going to disable the delete function. I have for most of the site.

Well that a problem I don't have a local AMSOil dealer here locally. I'm not going to mail order my oil changes every time that just insane. Like trying to get Fleetguard filters is a 120 mile round trip to Grangeville to the Cummins dealer or 300 miles to Rocky Mountain Cummins. Just to freight part up is getting expensive. Like now I'm got agreements with the local part store which I have account with and mail carrier to deliver parts to me for nothing being I take care of her car. I should not have to mail order a oil change that's just plain silly. Now with speciality parts like injectors, injection pumps yes I can see mail ordering through other vendors like Vulcan Performance or DAP. So when I pay $11.59 for a oil filter and it takes another $20 bucks to be delivered that just not cost effective any longer. Still in all I could just remain stock and be fine. There is plenty of truck roaming around here without a bypass filter that have better than 1/2 million on them. I was flipping over to "Bob the Oil Guy" and reading post about some of the by pass filters and most still favored the Frantz filters. But the spin on style filter like most where making a size comparison like a hair is 80 microns, and blood s 8 micron. So like most said your covering for most of the damaging particles that the full flow is not dealing with. But now looking back now at the Frantz filter now you have such a wide size difference in toilet paper and sealing issues with the core stem and such. How are you going to be sure its working anymore? Again now you chip away cost and add in UOA and now doubled the price of your oil change again. So 10 micron spin on filter. Just peeking at AMSOIl filter cartridge at $50 to $60 bucks is plain out right insane. I don't care how good the name is and how good it filters no way... That's just way too expensive. Then add freight on that its going to be even more expensive. Hell my last oil change cost me $50 bucks for 3 gallon of Valvoline and a NAPA filter. So adding AMSOIL bypass would be better than $100 to $110... Sorry that too crazy. My pockets aren't that deep...

Here is another filter... Locally available. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Filter-Gold-/_/R-FIL1050_0297056267

Something like this... http://www.everythingtruckparts.com/baldwin-ob1305-by-pass-lube-filter-base/ http://www.everythingtruckparts.com/baldwin-b128-by-pass-lube-spin-on-filter/

There was a write up here time ago. Where a gent found a spin on bypass filter. He made his own bypass filter. Now I just got to find it in the Blackhole Database.

Yeah now I got to rebuild it again. Darn the luck. So I'll get fresh photos for the truck pictures and re-write the mods.

OMG! My eyes... No it more like all the toilet paper manufactures are changing things like core roll diameter and roll width. At first it was too bad and just change a spacer that Deborah provided me. But now the rolls are too narrow and go into the can too far. Just not sealing correctly any longer. Time to give up. Now that she sold the company and they seem to have custom fit rolls. I'm going to find a simple spin on filter to replace this mess with. Frantz Filter is now up to $469.95 for a price. I'm sure I can find a bypass filter and spin on base to use.

I've got a set of shims for the roll diameter differences but I have to now figure out a way to deal with narrower rolls. I can't get the seal to cut into the rolls anymore because they are too narrow now. So the last filter didn't do any good because the seal ring didn't cut into the roll like designed. Basically the can is too deep now.

Name: Dodge Ram (2002) Date Added: 30 April 2015 - 08:59 PM Owner: Mopar1973Man Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle

I can believe I done it. Some where down the line I managed to delete my own truck from the Garage section. Well I guess now I can rebuild my garage area for my 2002 Dodge...

Well today while doing my oil change I finally gave up on my Frantz Filter. I've had enough. Back when I got it was rather easy to just change filters (roll of toilet paper) and go on. Well now toilet paper is so different from brand to brand and now the length is wrong, core size is different, etc. Just a big pain in my to deal with now. So I'm pulling it off and removing it permanently. I'll be looking towards a better solution in time with a remote mount base and a spin on bypass filter some wrote up in the past. The other thing is I'm tired of the leaking lid all the time no matter what I do I've always got oil oozing out of the can. I'm tired of the oily mess and fighting the toilet paper rolls.

Cost more but should be better parts. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Control-Arm-Lower-Front-Susp/_/R-NCP2605576_0229547843

Maybe you should go into production. I'll gladly sell them here on the Mopar1973Man.Com site.

Cross over tube o-rings Cross over tube miss seated in the injector Return line leaking Fuel pressure gauge shouldn't be hooked up right at the injection pump. That is the strongest water hammer pulses and does the greatest amount of damage to fuel pressure gauges and fuel pressure senders. Fuel pressure gauges are best hooked up at the last filter and not the injection pump. This gives some buffer area in the filter also giving some distance from the water hammer source. As for the loss of prime run the truck and shutdown. Quickly pressurize the fuel tank with air so the fuel in the lines will be forced out of any leaks. Just use a rag and a air gun on a air compressor just need 1-2 PSI to make it weep and make a wet spot. Typically pressurized lines after the pump will leak naturally because of fuel pressure while running but suction side lines never leak. Because while running its sucking air in and when shut down it still sucking air in to purge out the prime.

IBMobile's design has the light outside the circuit for the switch. I understand why the lighted switch doesn't work because the light in the switch is on the same circuit as the torque converter clutch and drawing voltage and currant on that same circuit. Just like you can use lighted switch on the high idle mod or the MPG fooler because the light draws on the 5 volt signal and would mess up the voltage required. This why the rotary switch works well in Yankneck's design because a separate switch drove the light while another switch drove the resistors and sensor leads. So now looking at IBMobile's design it should work but the relationship between the APPS sensor and the transmission torque converter clutch is long way away from each other.

Well you'll have to get it home and open it up so we can see what happened.

Agreed... Even with stock tires I back down to 55 MPH and grab 4th (1:1 direct) and run the grades. It not "how fast" you can climb the grades but "how many" times can you do it.