Mopar1973Man

Well I've gone and done it. I went and installed a muffler. But this muffler I was happy to install. It a 3" in and 3" out with straight pipe through it. Designed much like a glass pack but not. Best part NAPA has them in stock for super cheap price. NAPA - Muffler - EXH 21468 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3d21468%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3d21468%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 It really quiet after all the years of straight pipe it super quiet. People are going to wonder if I sold my truck.

Welcome to the family. As for you comment for transmission lock and unlock issue... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues

Get a hold of http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/user/565-pepsi71ocean/I know he's got a compression gauge.

Well you know the old saying... "If it's too loud your too old." I guess I'm just getting old. I finally opted for a muffler on the truck and got a awesome 3" in and out muffler for $80 bucks from Napa. I will admit over straight pipe its way quieter now. The muffler is a straight through design so there is no baffles per say to create added EGT's. When you look through the end of the muffler its a straight through pipe. Napa Muffler - EXH 21468 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Muffler-H-D-Truck/_/R-EXT21468_0006446325 Mod listing... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/garage/vehicle/2-dodge-ram-2500/?tab=mods&mod_id=77 Installed: November, 18, 2014 Mileage: 238,000

Good Gawd ISX that camera is beat to hell and back...

Once the high idle feature is enable you get both 3 cylinder and 6 cylinder high idle features. Here is the manual for the Version 2 High idle switch. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/64-mopar1973man-com-high-idle-kit/455-mopar1973man-com-high-idle-operation-manual

I'll take it off your hands... I could never have enough diesel trucks.

Personally I like that idea of the 10% kerosene I know out here its expensive but its common to find it everywhere.

As far as I know out here in Idaho its all just winterized #2 diesel and we get down to -20*F to -25*F here in New Meadows, ID. So far no issues. I still keep feeding the pump its dose of 2 cycle oil but I don't add anything else typically.

OMG... I really wonder about people some days.

Now you know why I've got my AirDog tucked right behind the transfer case trying to keep the cold wind off the filters.

Oh Darn... I forgot to get some when I was last at WalMart. Seriously I thought about getting a gallon of kerosene for cutting the fuel if need be.

Kerosene for years use to be the way to deal with gelling issues now we are looking for a chemical in bottle to do it. Makes you think...

Like myself I don't bother with name brands. I've got HiFly's on right now and they are a load range E tire. But since I'm not a name brand tire they are much cheaper. But I do adjust my tire pressure based on axle weight calculation. This gives me the best off all worlds. Enjoyable ride, cheap tires, and good traction.

Hmmm... Me I would call around and fine a shop that does free injector pop testing. Then see about renting a diesel compression test. Have a friend run the injectors out and have then tested. Then you can do the compression test. By time you finish you buddy should be finish and coming back. Shouldn't take much more than 1-2 hours tops if everything is planned out.

No matter what micron size you put on for a filter gelled fuel will not pass through the filter. At this point you need to warm the fuel up as much as possible in a enclosed shop and treat your existing fuel.

Like with the new fuel line I ran mine inside the frame tube to get as much as possible out of the cold wind. The rest of the line I kept high against the body away from the wind and possibly capture warm when sitting still.

Like myself I see a little drop in pressure but by the time I get some heat into the fuel tank the pressure starts to rise again. But I kept my stock filter housing to help with heating the fuel in the winter time. 12 years of ownership I never gelled up yet.

Thatt's why I still suggest pop testing. Then you can rule out the injectors completely. Right now you randomly tossing money at parts without any proof of a fuel issues and where? But still if it was me I would pull all the injectors out and pop test. While the injectors are being pop tested I would do a compression test just to verify and the injectors are out so it makes getting two birds with one stone.

Time for pop testing. Number and label thee injectors. Find out what going on injector wise.

Ahhh There is the Idaho bee keeper.

I done a 1st gen a few year back and it best to remove all the stuff out of your way. Injection pump, injection line, fuel lines, etc.

Mine was like that too. Low setting seem to not work at all and the two medium settings tend to squeak and high worked fine. After replacing my lo setting works awesome and the mediums no longer squeak. Lindy at the shop said, "With a motor that tight I'm surprised it didn't blow the fuse."

Sounds like your making head way.

I'm surprise Hex0rz isn't all in this thread about bees?