Mopar1973Man

Every one looks at the cool factor but never consider the effect of changing just the front axle stance just a mere 2" is a big deal. It is!!! Now what does it do to the geometry of the rest of the front axle? How about longevity? If your really wanting to still do this I highly suggest you go to a high quality 4x4 shop and have it done correctly. This includes new shocks, new adjustable track bar, and full alignment by someone that does more that stock values which will not work any longer.

You might still catch up with him and find out exactly what was done and what worked and what didn't before you attempt to guess your way through the stalling problem. Like some people end up spending big money and not resolving anything.

My leveling kit is much much cheaper, easier, and much more enjoyable. I just saved a bunch of money leveling my way...

The biggest problem you'll have is the change in geometry of the front end and having to switch over to a adjustable front track bar. I just done one on a Ford Powerstroke and it was a serious PITA to do. After the shims went in nothing lined up properly. So a adjustable track bar has to be used and also would be advisable to have the front end aligned again too by a shop that knows how to work with custom suspensions.

For me its not exactly the warm up time its the IAT temperature I'm after. I tend to aim for 100-140*F as much as possible. Since I drive efficiently for the most part the warm up time is always extended. Takes about 8-10 miles from cold to full 190*F every time regardless of the grill covered or not. But with the grill covered I do see more of 195-197*F coolant temps in the winter vs. 185-188*F without in minus weather. Also on the IAT I see roughly a 10-20*F gain vs without the cover.

Talk to Pepsi71Ocean you'll find out what he went through to resolve the stalling issues.

I might just do the electronic gauges just to say I've master both mechanical and electronic and have solutions for both. More I kept thinking about it more I'm considering the electronic EV2's. I'm most likely going to do... Black background Orange Needles Boost 0-60 PSI Fuel Pressure 0-30 PSI Pyrometer (uncolored) 0-1600*F

From the lows to the highs around me. Lewiston Idaho ............... 750 Riggins Idaho .............. 1,800 Home .......................... 2,800 New Meadows ............ 3,800 McCall Idaho ............... 5,000 Burgdorf Idaho ............ 6,100 Heavens Gate ............. 8,400

From what I understand all EV2's are electronic no mechanicals. So I would have to back down to EV's for mechanicals. Eric was telling me about the differences in the fuel pressure senders. The old school what a diaphragm style and now the new style is solid state without a diaphragm to rupture and leak from water hammer. (Positive point) I'm going to call and talk to Eric more on Monday and pick his brain more.

But also the pressure at which it pops will dictate the quality of atomization of the injectors too.

I know the feeling. I just thought I was doing so good then all the little things started to go wrong with my truck. Just time to give them some TLC and make them happy once again.

Here is what it looks like...

Well now Colorado isn't even close to flat just as lumpy and Idaho is. But someone in Midwest could easily run a full cover like that. But after a few close calls here I've given up on the full cover idea. I know the Geno's allows for openings to added for ventilation or adjust how much. So we'll see how you fair on this. Matter of fact I'll be putting mine on tomorrow morning darn cold here in the mornings at 32-35*F and taking several miles to even get heat.

MnTom is correct. The soap nozzle should be a very large bore nozzle typically. Just for fun here is my hand-me-down 3000 PSI power washer.

Well for while now I've had a squeak noise from my blower motor that would come and go. Today I finally got around to look at it. I pulled the blower motor down and attempted to spin the cage. OMG! Talk about hardly spin. It must of been putting a hell of a load amps wise on the circuit. Never blown the fuse or burnt anything that I know of. But the shaft without the cage on you couldn't twist with your fingers you had to use pilers. Well my nice boss ordered me one today and just got it tonight so I'll get the new one installed in the morning.

Geez... When it rains it pours. I just lost my pyrometer this morning it quit working. So I did my phone shopping at work today since it was slow. Called around and once again my buddy Eric at Vulcan Performance did the best price. I'm just beside myself of taking either ISSPro EV's or ISSPro EV2's. The EV's are all mechanical gauges. Now Eric tells me the EV2's are electronic and using now solid state pressure sensors that are rare to fail. I'm considering on jumping out on a limb and trying the EV2's. What do you all think? http://www.isspro.com/page.php?page=Performance_Diesel_By_Product_Series#tabs-1 Once again thanks to http://www.vulcanperformance.com

Back when I did that article I cover just as shown and watch coolant temps get out of hand. But I tend to favor the grill cover more so because of the air gap and the ability of the fan to lock and cool again. Yes I do hear the fan lock up and cool things down once in awhile when climbing around in the mountains. Geno's might be fine for flat landers but I won't want to try it up here.

I bought Southbend Con OFE for mine because the stock clutch no loner could hold the juice any more. Back in the day I bought it for like $800 if I remember right.

ASD Relay just shuts down (not defuel) everything if anything goes way out of spec. Also ASD is only tied to the PCM has absolutely no connection to the ECM. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/2ndgen24v/wiring/2002-Dodge-Wiring-Pg1.jpg But as for defueling if any ECM sensor rise or falls from normal now the ECM commands defueling.

Be very careful it very possible to get some really hot temps. (IAT and/or Coolant) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/135-winter-fronts-for-dodge-cummins-trucks

Does seem odd that you would have to buy the tools to do the valves...

This month I be putting my Winter Fronts in. I'm seeing 40*F in the mornings and barely breaking over 70*F during the day. So I run from October to April with my winter fronts. What you want to watch is the IAT temps as long as your hitting about 100-140*F your optimal for fuel mileage below that you lose roughly 1 MPG for even 10 degree drop.

As for trans additive the shop I work in the Boss (Lindy) uses Trans X... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/A-Trans-Fluid-Additive-30-oz-CRC-Trans-X/_/R-KW_402032_0006409557

Depending on condition and what is on the engine I would say the 4-5 is about right for a entire engine including VP44 and turbo.

Lets say with my setup right now I've got problems with my tires holding dry pavement in 2nd or 3rd gears. Depending on condition of the road, what I'm towing and how hard I get on the throttle it been known to spin the tires. So I would say yes... Take care of all the weakness like the trans and fuel system before you even think about upgrading fuel or HP.