Dieselfuture

Isn't there a special adapter you have to use with that fitting, or you can damage it, what I heard

I also used my original arm, seems to work

Is it just on the dash or is the engine actually goes up and down in RPM, almost sounds like apps problem But none the less check AC noise and do ground mod

After you make sure you have no excessive AC noise and do ground mod and still have problems it could be your PSG on vp44 or ecm from being damaged by AC current. When you not touching go pedal ECM is in control of idle. You can also try dumping cold water over vp44 computer PSG when it acts up and see if it gets better. Sometimes there is no code for VP or ECM.

It's one of my disorders I have

Always working on mine

So I'm tired of abs light coming and going and the result is I got Timpkens from rockauto. They look like a very well made unit, says made in USA right on them, and also do not disassemble lol. I took sensors out to see how much grease is in there and they look well packed, even tone ring got grease all over it. So I'm guessing that was never an issue with having grease on it. Might do this tomorrow if I survive friends b-day party today. Here is all the junk I'll probably be changing. Not sure if at 160k I need axle shaft u joints changed but if I'll have it all out, why not. I've been collecting parts for a while for this moment Oh and new shields from 3rd gen, they don't offer them for ours anymore. The only difference is they are larger in diameter and little that's all, same with back ones, already did them few years ago. Edit Take note of ball joint instructions, wonder if it has anything to do with how long they last. Another edit. Wrong slinger ring in picture, does not fit, too small. Those slingers are from different model axle I posted above, the ones for 01 and 02 are discontinued you have to buy a whole axle stub to get them slingers, but a smart man at Sadler Power Train figured it out and I just got these.

They may all be made there for all we know

Is this for rear drums only, I don't believe I seen this on my truck.

Forever

I guess you're right, especially at walmart God help us all.....

Well they were worn last year before I did hg and even then seals were in place and not burning any oil at all. The whole reason I did hg is oil leak and later found out my guides are worn. So all that got fixed and for a year/6k I didn't have an issue, until I started playing with tunes again. Then all the sudden I'm blowing clouds of smoke on start up, that's when I found half the exhaust seals were off the guides. So that's how I came to idea of using ford seals, not saying it's the right way but hey. Then I only did exhaust side and put regular ones on intake side just because I had it apart, which may have been a mistake since they were still good and on guides. So fast forward 1k and I'm checking valve lash and noticed few of intake seals are of the guides, sob, so took it all apart again and did the intake side with top hats. While in there I checked exhaust side and all guides and everything still looked good. So that's where I'm at now, using Ford top hats on all of my valves, they won't blow off now but there might be a slight issue with carbon build up between the seal and guide as they are 1/16 taller then need to be, so there is a small air gap. Only time will tell now, I'm not planning on taking anything apart unless something else happens. And if I ever take the head off again, it will get machined for the right seals. I really think it's my luck or too much pressure, ether from boost or exhaust brake, I know carbon build up is from using EB, and according to some people see a lot more back pressure from eb than boost. So be careful using yours.

Is this a joke, how much does that car cost new? This just doesn't make any sense. Who is stupid enough to pay that.

How may miles do you get out of them, and what rating is on your 245, easy to balance?

Wow, how you doing that on 35s? Still running same tune you posted?

Just looked them up and they made in china, and funny I went to store to get a sandwich and there was a truck with them on, about half tread and dry rot (didn't look at date) and says made in china right on them. I like the price but just not sure on trusting these. And I don't put a lot of miles on a year so dry rot may take over in few years.

You should check all the bolts you can get to for tightness, they will do as much damage as kdp, some take them out, clean them and use locktight to put them back.

That is a bunch of them on eBay for under 10 bucks, but it just says aftermarket no brand name, but they all look like they came from the same place. What is that black o ring for in the kit

Especially if you need it asap, he had some practice so maybe see if he can, it will get you moving.

Yes I think that's how it is on mine.

From what I understand they are all different, for testing purposes you can put something close in and see but it's not recommended to leave it. 00-02 are preferred ecms with least problems I guess. What did you pay for it, this place can maybe answer your questions https://autocomputerspecialist.com They seem to change their prices a bit, but they help some members here. I had them reprogram a spear ecm I had and activate cold idle too (3/6cyl high idle) for $150 but unfortunately there is still something wrong with it as I lose tachometer after few minutes of driving, everything else seems to work good. They said to fix that it'll be another 150 so I just put back on shelf for now. Latest update for ecm is 313038303J I believe.

I'm still thinking about gluing some type of vinyl over my dash to keep it all together and from farther cracking.

Yes, going of memory when I changed oil sensor but when I did I was thinking how it can be a 5 volt reference, an oil sensor and whatever else all on one wire. So I'm pretty sure it was a single wire, although plug looked like it was made for 2 wires.

I have one on my 02

I had my dash out before to glue it back together and it wasn't that hard getting it out just few screws I couldn't see and I never put them back ether, been fine without hard to reach screws. Just take your time and try different angles.