Dieselfuture

Here are few pictures, kinda can tell what I did.

My ABS light came back, so my original wheel bearings were probably still good, glad I kept them for spears. So yeah it basically went through the front end for no reason and probably put crappier parts in then before. Hope ball joints last longer than 12k

Me me

Pretty sure half ton frame is thinner

Maybe something like a winch rope for ATV, should be thin enough and if you get 50 feet it will last while

How many gph are the filters used on that, obviously you're not having any problems with pressure. Just wondering if it's starving your lift pump.

You're welcome, hope they work for you if you get them

I used 10oz in 285/70/17 but I think it may be too much according to this https://www.counteractbalancing.com/application-calculator/ I think I did use like 8 Oz to start with but had a slight shake so I added 2 more. So I'll probably put 8 Oz in 265/70/17 and go from there. It's easy to put them in when the bead is off and a pita through valve stem. Also I got some fancy valve cores that are longer spring loaded with filter, so beads don't get stuck in between and they definitely do with regular stems. The ones that come with counteracts are better but I still had beads trying to get in between so I got these now. https://www.amazon.com/TyreBeads-Tire-Balancing-Beads-Filtered/dp/B00LTCL0H0

That's what I got in mine also, with about same amount of miles. Still clear and red and smells good that completes my analysis.

Not to put salt on wounds, but that's why it almost took me 2 years to buy my truck, had lots of automatic options but I knew that's not what I wanted. Glad I waited that out, seems to be more issues with automatics to manuals.

You got one of the hunted ones just like I do, the more you fix it and baby it the more it gives you problems. I'm going to ignore mine for a while see what it thinks of that.

Counteract beads, I'd have to see how many Oz I used on 285s, I got it written down at home. Probably will put little less in 265s. They seem to work in larger tires better imo, I put some in my Accord and sometimes it's perfect and others it shakes, I'll hit the washboard and it gets better. When i took tires in to get dismounted I told them about beads and be carful not to dump them out. He said he wasn't really trying that hard to keep them inside. I used a vacuum and sucked up old ones out and they looked like new, so I'll reuse them. Also some said they chew tires up inside but mine were fine, few small rubber pieces mixed in with beads that I picked out and I mean tiny tiny ones nothing that concerned me. Not really sure how many times you can reuse them, I think they got some coating on them. Some use SS beads and swear by them, I already had some glass ones so that's what I used.

I mount tires by hand, had to pay 20 to get other ones off the rims, if they were steel I would of done it but they are 4th gen alloys. For balance I'll toss beads back in before I air up tire and set the bead, part of the reason I mount myself. I rotate them usually once a year or 7-8k when doing oil change. Don't want any monkeys cross threading my lug nuts and not using proper torque, so I pretty much do everything possible myself. I'm sure day will come when I'll have someone else doing it. So hopefully will only cost a bit of time and a beer or two, life time balance too, gets rebalanced everytime you drive it.

There is also an emission tune you can load fine tune it from there

Is that a stick or auto, personally I would think if it was a stick you could eliminate whatever you wanted, only need one power wire to control fuel solenoid. That's why all the 12 valves are popular to put in in whatever vehicle. But then again I could be wrong, but I know I've seen several of them in Chevys and Fords going off-roading.

Sorry for late post, I do hope it's something simple too but I'm not to strong on electrical, part of reason I didn't post sooner was waiting on more knowledgeable members. All I can say is you're right about charging, PCM is what controls it, now why did it quit is another question. Lately there been a lot of issues with alternators and ac noise associated with them taking out electronics. So once you figure out why it's not charging it's worth looking in ac noise and ground mods. For now maybe charge batteries and unplug alternator all together to see if truk runs any different (charge wire and field plug). Plus you had auto now it's manual and ecm/pcm still the same I assume, you may have to reprogram them but I'm not sure. Probably if you went the other way manual to auto then you would for sure. Hopefully someone will point you in right direction soon. Good luck.

Yeap, it's a vicious circle with no way out....

Yeap, that's how I ended up changing mine playing with Tunes

@Mopar1973Man I just changed my front wheel bearings and have a few years old sensor in rear end and my brake/abs light is back again after 2 weeks of no light, after front hub assemblys replaced. Not sure what to think now, kinda tired of it at the moment.

I had the same issue with turnover ball mounting hardware being in the way, so I had to redesign the kit and make my own brackets. So my airbags are not sitting on top of leaf spring, instead they are mounted directly under the frame and sit on bottom out blocks we're robber stoppers used to be. This guy does pretty good job in my opinion I would do something like that to airbags. Looks like around 7 minutes he is discussing it. https://youtu.be/xrFtvfu_OJE

You'll never stop fixing your truck just like rest of us, so just buy the Quadzilla already and fix other things later

I have not checked that one out yet on my truck (Lubricating oil pressure regulator), but I heard you guys mention that before. I did find some chunks of valve seals in my oil filter, when I redid my seals. Doesn't all the oil has to go through oil filter first before it gets to that port. But I guess being so close to the filter maybe it doesn't.

Well, got a set of hankook dynapro atm in 265/70/17 10 ply coming for every day use for $700 to my door with free replacement for life of tires if I tear a hole in them. From Discounttiredirect.com they honored the price of their store that is discounttirer.com and the guy on the phone did some more magic and that's the outcome. So hopefully they do better then some crappy tires made in USA these days. Just not sure if I want white letters facing in or out. Also I'm going to get a set of some mud and snow tires in 285/70/17 to put on my steel rims that I can use in winter, maybe something like duratracs or similar knoby style. Not concerned about bigger tires for winter as I'm not going to tow and not concerned about mpg in winter ether. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

You don't know what your missing, it's worth it at the end of day, when you fall asleep cause you just can't move anymore

Well I think it's safe to say it's a success. Not sure if heard anyone else using 15/40 motor oil in NV5600 for that long without side effects