Dieselfuture

Just noticed my hitch had developed a crack where it bolts to frame towards back, about 1.5" long. So I wasn't going to take any changes welding it and got a new one coming. I've read some reviews about curt class 5 hitches and that's what I went with. Rockauto has them but with shipping it came up to way more then what u found on eBay. Here is a link https://www.ebay.com/itm/CURT-Manufacturing-Receiver-Hitch-15318/332832960399?hash=item4d7e63ef8f:g:INQAAOSwWlFbuoKQ:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!60067!US!-1 This is for short bed curt15318, if you have long bed 15319 is what you want, but on reading more it seems that ether one can work but 318 has more holes for short bed, where 319 has 3 on each side. Anyway though someone may benefit from this. My hitch is in sad shape anyway, glad I found a crack now and not on the the road, plus it's an excuse to get a class 5.

I guess the sleeve it rides on is what I'm thinking, I did some clutches in passed on cars and few trucks and always greased that. One time I didn't and with in few months clutch got hard to press, tore it upart and there was a groove cut in that sleeve.

What about greasing where throughout bearing is sliding on

so I weighed the tires and rims before and after and here is the result. Tires I had was a toyo Open Country at2 285/70/17 E rated about 70% tread left, 72lb. These hankook's I just put on come in at 74.2lb in 265/70/17 E rated. Point I'm trying to make is, even though hankook's are a heavier tire in a smaller size, still getting cooler egts, less engine load and better MPG. So in my opinion it's not so much about rotational mass (which probably has a factor in it just not a big one), ie not upgrading to 3rd gen brakes because of it, but definitely has a lot to do with gearing. Just shearing the outcome

Will you guys tested for heat/ cold to a certain point. Maybe put it in the oven when your baking your cookies and then the freezer when you getting your ice cream, although freezer might not be cold enough.

You may need to modify your return to tank spring like this, so the ball doesn't get jammed in it. Picture is from the air dog but you get the idea

How is your turbo still looking so good after all these years and miles, mine was half rotten with only 150some k on it.

If I have to do it all over again, I'd get 62/ 68/14 but then again I never had one that size so I couldn't tell you the outcome. I think that's what @Silverdodge is using

You don't have to, next time you have it out maybe. I went to local car qwest and they have a wix one for 110 bucks, ran it through my city account and it came up to 36 bucks lol. But they won't sell it to me for that price because it's some special government cheese discount we get. Anyway the part number is 46469 for Napa and 88469 for wix or whatever they get.

Some pictures are deceiving, wasn't sure if you used one before.

Yeah, probably just a matter of time lol

Same here not much to wax, thought about painting it again, but before I do I need to fix all the rust holes. And by the time I'll be done with that,... let's just say I'll be a while. I know Dodge went cheap on paint on these years, funny thing is my little Honda I drive is doing the same thing it's almost like in that 2000 era there was some paint problems

Some beach,..

Does 6469 have steel mesh inside. My next filter I'd like to get with the mash inside, and if a muffled 6469 does, I might just give it a shot.

Me too

Cool, I don't think that kit was available when I did mine or I would of went with it. Looks like someone finally figured it out.

Yeah once you realize how easy it is to do an alignment on these trucks especially with t-bar style steering, you start to wonder why people that do it for a living sometimes have no clue.

I had exact same issue with mine about 4,5 years ago. A set of new injectors made it a lot better, and then rebuilding my alternator did the rest. Do you have a needle valve on your pressure gauge

I just glued some door screen on

Didn't know Adam Sandler was into this sort of the stuff

Was there any room for friction when taking off or did it just grab

I still think exhaust brake system that uses a flap in down pipe contributes to valve guide wear. You're forcing all that carbon through guides passed valve seals and into valve cover space. Slowly it wears bigger gap allowing for more carbon build up that makes for sticking valves and creating heat and farther wearing guides and valves. And that carbon is hard stuff. I guess if you can go 300-400k on a head using EB then who cares, rebuilt it and do it again. Idk jmo.

At least she knows how to open the hood

I eyeballed mine works fine, I know I'm within 1/4 inch, which is close enough for me

One thing on the axle nut, every time I went to 180 my cotter pin was too far off, so I found some big washers I had and tried diferent ones till I got close. Instructions say go 180 and then keep going to closest hole but if you're to far off by the time you go to closest hole you may increase another 50 lb, and I believe it does effect bearing pre-load a little, maybe not. But if you look at bearing it doesn't just bottom out on flange, there is a little gap, so I think it's possible to over do it.