Dieselfuture

Maybe check your turbo and see if you got any oil there

I need to enable my high idle and change my tire size too

What's crazy is I just talked to a guy last night that drives a Toyota Tundra. He's on his second one. First one was 02, he traded it in with 375k on it. Second one is 14 he still drives today, has 335k. Biggest issue he had, was a wheel bearing on his first one. Rest of the maintenance was tires, set of brakes, some tune up, minor stuff. Even said on the first one he never changed timing belt and then the second one he's not planning on doing it, because it has a chain. He's kind of got a mind of his own but I guess it's been working for him. The truck he drives now looks almost new on the outside, he did say windshield is getting pitted pretty bad and his thinking about replacing it. I had an 01 Tundra for a while and really enjoyed driving it versus my 00 F-150 I had before. Tundra has definitely been on my mind before, especially when I get frustrated with my Dodge ha ha. I do realize that it probably won't go as many miles as Cummins, but for someone that doesn't need to pull much and put a million miles they're a great truck. Although I believe I heard of someone putting a million miles on the tundra before.

I believe this place may have something https://torqueking.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn-a4-s743gIVD7bACh3vcw5kEAAYASAAEgISavD_BwE

Get you wireing cleaned up first with the WT mod and just all grounds in general, then you'll need some sort of life tool to see what apps does when you're driving down the road and it acts up. The 5v loop is just that, it's not 12v dropping that low, it is an actual 5 volt circuit that some sensors run on and when it malfunctions from a bad connection it causes random problems.

I believe after the hg you can get another 500k out of it without major engine work. Good luck with the hg job.

Still no snow ?

Get out of habit holding on to steering wheel when getting in, may be a top column bearing. Or it could be a lower bearing on engine bay side.

That's what I got, thanks to you and few others. All I can say is I should of done that long ago.

And here I thought buying a cummins truck, all you do is fill it up with fuel and drive it and they will run forever without pulling injectors every year.... But seriously injectors should last at least 100k without needed adjusting. My 150s are slightly hazy now and not as clean as they were when I first installed them, I'm guessing pop pressure is settling. I asked dap to set them at 320, I'm now curious where they are. It could be colder weather and treated fuel, I guess I'll know in spring. Still happy with power and performance.

Personally I'm leaning towards ho pump if mine ever goes. I know so is more capable of top end but I have ho pump now and pretty happy with power. I guess it would come down to you choosing what you need. 2 pumps would be better though to experiment and have a spear.

When my limited-slip goes out I'll probably be putting True-Track in. Although in my work truck 2015 f350 I have a electric Locker that came from Ford and it does work real well, but since I got this truck I only used it maybe 5 times. So question is does it worth it in the end. Like mentioned, if money is not a concern, then why not.

it almost looks like it's been ran low on coolant for a long time and some kind of oxidation happen

Glad he's doing ok, it's hard to watch good people get hurt. I suppose we're all living on borrowed time and you just never know what comes next. I guess that's why they say, most the time you don't know or appreciate what you have till you lose it. Good thing it was only material things that he lost, but like mentioned above I couldn't imagine starting over, that would be tough. I wonder if most people had insurance for something like that.

I like the last 2 before the high miles one. But man 25k , maybe 20k would be better and it better be in excellent condition with no check engine lights. I personally just don't care for automatics unless it's a work truck that I don't have to pay for or fix. Good to hear your wife is on your side and with your knowledge I think you'll be fine making a choice.

Maybe this will make my tires spin, now just need a line lock for front brakes

Bit off subject, but since you're here. On your 2nd gen that you put 1.3 million miles on, how many times did you have the head off and for what reasons, what was fixed, valves, guides, just hg, did you ever touch bottom end?

I find it hard to believe original VP same problem another new VP same problem, I would not point fingers at VP just yet. Have you checked your AC noise from alternator and just in general. That could be the cause failing ECM in the first place. Hopefully it's just some ground wires or wires in general. After you do your AC noise check highly recommended to do the ground mod.

Half the people are experienced and a half are not, I've done it before and it's not bad once you figure out what to do. If in neutral the double joint feels tight up and down then the ball socket is fine, probably just need to put a new ball on it. Just take your time and you'll be fine. Plan on 2-3 hours that way you're not in a hurry trying to break something. Mark everything so it all goes back in same line. I would use a non greasable Spicer joint that way it's non-directional of where the grease zerks go and more likely will last longer anyway unless you're driving in the swamp everyday, even then the seals on non greasable are so much better, water should not be getting in there regardless.

Could be a gasket between the seat and a steering wheel If ECM is in control at idle, then who knows a loose wire connection, Gremlins inside the ECM, them little bastards are hard to catch sometimes

Gremlins

It happened to me quite a few times too, not chocolate but just random stuff that makes sense

I think like it's been pointed out, easiest way is to get a used dhd and slap it in. You can find them on Craigslist sometimes for 300-400 bucks. Not sure if driveshaft will need shortened or a new yoke needed.

From what I was told ECM and PCM are all programmed to a specific Vin. And programs can change month to month of manufacturing date. But I was also told it shouldn't hurt anything running it for diagnostic purposes. To make it run right, they needs to be programmed to the VIN.