Dieselfuture

Chunk of head sounds more fun and you can sell the other five pieces

doesn't the impact motion affect how you tighten the bolt, as long as you moved it another 120 degrees you're fine. Good luck with your move, how's your current shop taking it that you're moving.

I thought if a guy can find a junk head for free, chop one cylinder off and use it as a jig for pop testing

Great, whats wrong with Mopar crap, I thought that was the fix

I like it, didn't have grease zerks, but I put some in. I like zerks on everything except ujoints.

Rockauto, it was the Mopar kit.

I'm with you on that, still need to do this. So from what you said, ecm must trigger power wires to energize coils and not the grounds. This brings another question that I may have asked, did you tie in both positive coil wires to a single switch? So when you push a button you're energizing both grids?

This guy I used to know when I was a kid really loved that stuff for fixing radios and such. I'm surprised myself it's not more common.

Is it possible that it was an option for overhead console, but never got linked to anything that gives it its information

How you've been, haven't seen you post latly Could be in your plug or wiring, since you messed with it once and it worked and now it doesn't, maybe a loose connection

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Yeah I think plumber flux is acidic as it turns green on pipes. I always backed it out as much as I can, but it would be best to have resin flux. I remember long ago someone using pine tree sap for soldering boards.

I've use plumber's flux before Edit Pine tree sap may also work

This is exactly why I made my own track bar. I too had the same problem looking for the correct length. I didn't have money at the time so I made my own. I would not recommend making your own unless you're very confident in your welding job. Personally if I had a choice now I would just buy an aftermarket adjustable track bar, but money was tight at the time. Looking at end links, your axle is shifting towards driver side, which would men your track bar is shorter than need to be. I've heard of different companies trying to make up for front suspension settlement over the years and by having a shorter track bar it would center your axle if your springs were sagged. But I would think quarter to a half inch would be more than plenty. Once again that's just a rumor I heard.

Sounds normal, mine is also off 1-2 psi. Have you checked for boost leaks

I hope you didn't get same one

That's a good question. To the ground I'm just guessing here too. Safe hp probably somewhere in 350 range, if I want to get stupid I'll have to guess 500 or more Yes v2 is Quadzilla stuff. The only tuner for vp44 engine. No dumb questions around here, I've asked plenty myself.

The only way your leaf springs would move like that is if your u-bolts were getting loose. Not sure if I would try tighten them up, they may end up snapping off. If they don't look rusty you may give it a shot. And I would make sure your bolts are tight that hold shocks down. Bilstein are good shocks.

Ideally I would love to have my own pop testing jig. That way you can buy nozzles and set your pop pressure to whatever you desire and then later on recheck your Pop pressure and see how much it settled. Make adjustments yourself without sending it out to anyone. I haven't even looked to see how much these things cost, I can't imagine it would be that expensive to make your own. Yeah cleaning injectors is a waste of time for the most part, if they need to be cleaned chances are the pop pressure is all gone, so it's pointless cleaning them because they will not run good anyway. And when you sent them in as a core, they go through ultrasonic wash anyway. I'd say keep your original ones and one day you may use them as a core for a bigger set. I like my 150hp with v2 tuning.

Wow 252k, you might be a record holder, around here at least. I'd say your VP is done. Any special treatment through out the life of vp, like two cycle oil, keeping fuel PSI between 14-20. Did you put all the miles on yourself, how do you know its original.

Using level 4 means you're using wire tap settings. I use level 3 only when cruising down the road. But I know what you're saying about giving the amount of fuel to move down the road. And like mentioned above, 11psi cruising on flat ground it's too high, should be more like 2-5 psi. Definitely have some drag or something. Brakes dragging, aerodynamics,

Did they buy a chance say what caused it, or do you think you might know what did it. Maybe faulty grounds, excessive AC noise from alternator? On my spare ECM I had 1698 pointing to PCM, but I knew it wasn't a PCM because by swapping to my other ecm code went away. I'm just kind of curious what may have caused it to throw them codes.

I might have misread your original post, but if it's not just a cluster gauge jumping around but the actual engine is stumbling, then there are number of gremlins need to be spanked and delt with. Since you don't have any codes reading with scanners, I would first start by checking fuel pressure. Anywhere from 14 to 20 is it safe range, now if you have an original vp44 that may still have rubber diaphragm, 10 to 15 is a good pressure range. Next you need to check for AC noise, alternating current that generally comes from alternator. Then do the WT ground mod with an extra 7.5amp fuse in alternator field wire, blue in color and a separate140-150 amp fuse on charge wire. Another thing that could be causing this is injectors or possibly a vp44 is on the way out but I would not condemn it yet, check alternator all the grounds and do the ground mod first. Doing the work is not as complicated as it sounds.

I used to use acid core wire myself, then I had few failures where the wire rotted internally and broke off the terminal, so now I only use resincore wire. I personally don't think it would hurt anything to dip wire into some flux, just make sure the wire is clean with no corrosion. Eliminate the quick connects on your ground wires, Run one solid wire straight to the battery.

Pretty