Dieselfuture

I my understanding ceramic is designed more towards performance, so in your case with higher hp you may be stock with ceramic, it will still last a while just not as long as your organic and other brands. But that's the price you have to pay for performance. If you don't put a lot of miles on towing and just commuting in general, then ceramic will do just fine. If you dd it a lot then I'm guessing it will wear out much faster. I still don't know what I have invested my truck, po said it was an aftermarket clutch but wasn't sure what exactly as his buddy sold it to him and helped to install. All I know is it's really grabby with very little friction to it, I'm guessing it's ceramic. Some day I'll find out I'm sure and be thinking on what to use myself. My truck will scoot if I get on it, so it has to be close to 500hp clutch that I have now. I'll be sure to start a thread on it when time comes, I wouldn't be surprised if it is a dual disc because of all the rattle that comes from transmission when it's hot idling in netral. Push in clutch the noise goes away, let go it sounds horrible. Looked inside through shifter, everything looked new. I even spoke with a good transmission guy here and right of way he said it's the clutch that causes the noise, don't worry about transition and add extra fluid.

I was always under the assumption that OL meant open loop, but we all know where assumptions take us.

Or better yet, some pour guy will do all the research and decides to get a cummins just to start fixing it and then sell it and say Cummins is junk and get a duramax or something.

I'm as good in wireing as you are, most of it goes right over my head if it has to do with more than one wire

For sale, low miles common rail Cummins, extra clean, well taken care of. Some red light is flashing on the dash. Don't miss this opportunity, won't last long...

I had oil sending units leak right out of box new, in fact I just warranted one out through RockAuto for a van I worked on.

Pull the headlight switch out disconnected from wires and shake It, can you hear anything rattling loose inside

Maybe try bleeding your brakes again. Since you had the system opened up maybe there is still some are left in it that somehow is messing with a BS computer

Have you pulled the door switch out and checked it. My door switch on driver side has been unplugged since I bought the truck, I just don't like lights coming on when I open the door for some reason. If I want lights I just use the headlight switch wheel. Wipers not returning home, on my truck ended up being a wiper motor. The door dinger I'm not sure about, technically if the keys in the ignition and the door is open ( lights on) then the the dinger should be on.

You guys should really do the WT ground mod, it really helps, and there are more ground splices that need attention too that we've been finding.

Wow you're idling at 20 degrees of timing, I guess I never paid attention to mine, maybe it's the same

That's from seized up sliders on calipers

I'd say stick with what's been working for you, or call South Bend and and see if they recommend anything

It could definitely happen, this is not the first case. @dripley knows all about how to giggle a wiring harness. I believe there is a ground splice just before ECM, it's on my list to do also.

I'm a slow learner, just wanted to support made in USA stuff

Maybe I'll try to warranty one of these new Timken hubs. So much for buying made in usa stuff

Is there a way to know what Clutch you have without pulling out transmission

Mine never showed, how do you like yours so far

I see, you must leave close by to MM. I wonder if my tires size needs adjusted also so it reads sensor right. Just doesn't make sense why the other one and rear are fine. PO of my truck did reprogram it for bigger tires so I'm off few mph at 70.

How did you get your hands on @Chris O. tool, I'm jealous. I think 16 PSI is where the quits seeing it, but boost will keep building. Like @dripley said, use mechanical boost gauge to check your boost.

Ohhh I forgot, yes also black for gasoline here

@Chris O. what do you think is causing this, I now wish I did this on old front wheel bearings before I replace them as my abs came on and off randomly before I changed wheel bearings. It doesn't happen near as much now but still happens once in awhile, this image is with new wheel bearings.

I guess that's what I meant to say, sorry for miss guiding. I just knew it was an option to use with my current exhaust brake.

Ok fine this was years ago and still to this day I have not cleaned that gun, I just shoot more rounds through it to clean and exercise it. One time my stock started to smolder.

I'd say tuning is the way to go, that's how my truck is set up at the moment. My wastegate hose is plugged off. I also don't use my wiretap at the moment, not that I couldn't I just don't see a point. I'm reaching the limits of my Turbo with just tuning and 7x10 vco. Sure wiretap adds more power but I'm creating a lot more heat and only used it a handful of times to play around. I was actually considering the k-27 turbo because if the 5 bolt flange for the turbo exhaust break mount. I'm glad it's working out for you. I tried playing with setting up the wastegate but couldn't get it just right with boost elbow, so I gave up. I like the idea of spring tension for wastegate control instead of boost actuator. I'm still thinking about setting that up as a backup in case tuning fails.