Dieselfuture

Did you jump it and let alternator charge dead batteries, or did you charge batteries with a charger. Were grid heaters cycling on top of that. You may have fried your alternator sending excessive AC current through your electrical system,causing possible damage to ECM PCM. Just a wild guess here. I would think yes. Mine did same thing, ended up being bad egt probe Mustang be part of that fuse blowing problem, wonder why it was blowing.

Looks like they are a progressive spring, meaning they may have a better ride and still support waight. See how bottom coils are wound tighter together, that's for softer ride. We're they described as soft ride or anything?

Yeap^^^^^ got one in mine, not a bad job but can be fun

It is .... ? they must hate me then, I go around them all the time, sometimes they are n9ce enough and pull over when the line behind them is a mile long

First thing I would have said, ujoints. Next spider gears, not sure what to tell you other then double check everything. What's that brown color stuff in pan, looks like water mixed with oil almost, unless it's a reflection. Where is noise coming from, front or rear.

I see, looks great though. Can't tell what fuse taps you got, I've used add a circuit few times, work good. Comes in different sizes and gauge.

What do you mean, do they flip out to towing style with a button? Mine are from a1 Auto and have the power adjust and heat, no marking lights, I didn't want to mess with that part then, looking at it now maybe I should have.

@Mopar1973Man off topic but for a day or two I've been seeing this message and couldn't get on the site, do you know what it may be.

For most people I agree, I on the other hand set cruise control on my( 2000 accord car) at 65 and pass everyone constantly, sometimes driving in passing lane more then behind others. These are same people that fly by me like I'm sitting still when roads are dry, they usually speed close to 20mph over. Reason I mentioned cruise control is because it's better for not spinning out, if you drive with your foot it's easier to over do the skinny pedal sometimes. Try it (anyone) and see what you think. They freaking canceling school again over some rain and few inches of snow, missed 4 days and wife 3 so far this winter and funny thing Is, school modo reads "strive for 5" meaning they don't want any kids missing more than 5 days a year, sad really. Another thing is shelves are empty in a lot of isles pretty much every time TV says warning, this society is getting weaker every year. Wouldn't take much of an event to cause zombie apocalypse

Exactly what I've experienced with blue line that comes with pumps. Now running black diesel line but after few years it's showing signs of cracking, so next will be the good stuff.

Better get out there more often

Alright now we're getting somewhere, keep it coming. I'm not 100% set on this idea yet but it's been on my mind for a long time. That's why I started this thread. I like the whole old school thing but, there is always but...

I got a T about a foot before vp then niddle valve, then I got another T for mechanical ( which is 1/8 air brake line with push in fitting) and electric guage ( quad). Been like that since I bought the truck about 7 year ago. As long as valve is barely open like you guys mention I think it's fine. Key is to open it just enough for fuel to build pressure, it takes about 10 sec on mine to fully go to 18psi. If i crack it open another nano .... hair it will only take few seconds, if I open it it 1/4 turns it spikes right to max. Mike's way on the fender is probably best but I'm not going to replumb anything until I open system next time, which will be when I change hoses more than likely. BTW my next hose will be that expensive stuff that's rated for whatever and like $3 bucks a foot, blue in color (not cheap crap that comes with fuel pumps) it's tough almost like a hydraulic hose. Hose I got now is black, better then the original blue, but next time......

I think everything is working properly, you must have front and rear open differentials meaning no limited slip or lockers. If you're sitting still and putting it in 4-wheel drive and you already stock front wheels most likely will not engage. If I know I'll need four-wheel drive I engage it ahead of time.

I don't understand, if you shift transfer case in 4x4 and front drive shaft engages then there is nothing wrong with tc. If your cad engages with vacuum then there is nothing wrong there ether. How are you testing your 4x4 anyway, I mean how do you know it's not working Edit Or are you saying you put it in 4x4 and front drive shaft doesn't move at all. Have you tried rear wheels off the ground with engine off in neutral and tcase in 4x4 try spinning rear driveshaft, does front driveshaft spin also?

M73M is going to have to create a corner just for us 2 to hang out in

I don't think that would happen, but never know. Majority of people don't want to do it anyway. More than likely insurance is who's going to push it. For better rates plug this thingy in your vehicle so we can track you and see how fast you're going and just everything we really want. Then most all new cars already have it built in, just a matter of time. No different than flu shots, still up to most people to chose if they want one or not, some places already forcing it on employees, if you don't get it you lose your job. Then the whole microchip thing, as of now it's still a choice, but time is running short before we all have it or you just won't be able to pay bills cause no one will be set up to accept anything else. Anyone that doesn't think it's coming to town near you, keep lying to yourself. Now it's hijacked

One thing I can add to this reliability thing. If or when emp happen or law enforcement would want to use a smart device on new vehicles to shut them down remotely, is when I can see having all mechanical vehicle as a benefit. But if ether one of these events happen, I don't think it would matter much to what you have. Idk just random thoughts Not high jacking, it's all related to a dead truck.

I thought of that, but want to try it in the rear first. It wouldn't take much to put it on the front, I got the hoop welded on front bumper, just wrap some chain around it and put a lock on it

I'll have to agree on this, I've always had good luck with older Hondas and Toyotas, minimum maintenance compared to others. I drive an Accord to work every day 150ml round trip and save all kinds of money on fuel and wear and tear that I would have spent driving my truck. I use the truck for what it's intended for and occasionally drive it to work if it sits too long. Funny, all the money I save I spend on the truck for things I want on it. In all honesty I trust my car more then the truck. But I like driving my truck more than I do the car. I just don't see a point putting all these miles on the truck and wear things out that cost twice as much to repair if not more. Some day when I don't have to worry about money, I'll just drive the truck everywhere.

I would return it if possible and get one of these

What apps sensor did you put in

If I really wanted to fit it back under there I probably could, need new cable lift with all accessories, I threw it all out. Then I'll need to move my air compressor, it's mounted under where tire was. So I'd rather concentrate on the swing arm and best design for it at this point. Plus my spear has aluminum rim full size like the truck, it'll look good I think. It's that or leave it alone in the box.

@Bulldog I don't think anyone is arguing with you on dependability and longevity of p7100 Cummins. What I believe is being discussed is vp44 lasts long enough for most here (with better fuel supply) that may put 15k a year. So if we see 250-300k out of one it's not bad at all. I agree diesel should go close to 1ml miles without changing major components and they did with p7100 but now with all new regulations, technology evolved. It's getting better but way more expensive. 12 valves that worth a crap with p7100 are drying up and the good ones still go for close to 20k then the whole cab design with 12valves suck, I used to have a great running 12v, but body was shot. I wanted to put drive train in a 3/4ton suburban and have something awesome but didn't have time.