Dieselfuture

For safety reasons you should but it should not interfere

I now see what you were talking about

There is a relay on fass harness you can unplug and jump the terminals that come frome battery to pump ( usually 30 and 87 ) the other 2 are from ECM that energize the coil in relay. You don't want to jump it right a way, because vp doesn't like full pressure on startups. Maybe wire in a toggle switch and as soon as it fires up then turn on lift pump. Also get a protective relay that uses diode or resistor, Fass has regular.

Sometimes it can feel like an on-off switch but has enough variables to be adjustable to each liking. Exactly, where there is will there is progress. @Marcus2000monster Quadzilla with V2 tuning is best tuner for vp44, if you're limited on time you can just use default tune for now it's a pretty a decent tune that works well. Then when you get more time and you're not feeling stressed out you can start playing with custom tuning. You can easily recreate XLT tune that you're going to try with v2 tuning. It probably just maxes out canbus and timing halfway through the map. Good things come to those that wait, I had my quad since I had my truck, more than once I thought about selling it I'm getting an edge. Glad I waited now and v2 tuning is available. I would not trade it for anything at this point. In fact if someone took it away from me I would probably sell the truck or return it all back to stock.

If you're talking about inside the dash that goes to the stereo itself, all I did is bought an adapter from Walmart that plugs right in factory stereo plug.

Here is all the Quadzilla stuff, you need to click on standard tunes. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/

Have you tried my most recent tune that I posted. You can't really run it too lean it just won't have power, and running it too rich you'll know way before you hurt anything. It'll come out of tailpipe as black soot.

Nice. If you're using bondo on your rockers over rust, it will come back in short time. Best is to replace them. I'm planning on doing mine and not too distant future.

I would pick the one closest to your truck, year, tranny, etc

You can put the different ECM in for testing purposes but I wouldn't leave it in for too long. You need to figure out what fried your ECM in the first place, seems that most common problems are alternator and ground wires

I'm running 4th gen wheels on mine, they are 17 the ones before they start using 18, they fit just fine with no spacers. I have no idea about 18 but like you said there are others using them.

Same here I ripped all that garbage out, but in previous times when I still had it I used a garbage bag draped over the valve cover and up on top of the cowl, so all that stuff is behind the garbage bag.

Make sure you're up-to-date on the latest software in the quad box, they were playing around with PSI offset and you may have an older version. Mine is off about 2psi, manual boost gauge will show more than quad until higher PSI than they equal out.

Which may be related to my slight hesitation on take off. I may bump it up 2 across the board on canbus and see what happens.

I'm at 5-6 at idle

Get the high idle switch and use the ecm for high idle, if you're sure it's enabled. https://mopar1973man.com/store/category/22-mopar1973man-high-idle/

You're not 92 Unless you meant something else

Kinda ready here, all depends on price and looks of new one, no rush it looks better already then the wore out goat Now if we can do something about the steering wheel too Piece of duck tape maby

When you drive things on with a hammer you taking a chance of cracking stuff especially a bearing. I would point my finger first at that.

GCS

Pretty much, all I need is a regular rebuild kit for hx35 to do mine, that's usually around $50

I believe he said close to 500, don't quote me on it though. I was looking for a safe 400, I think I'm close. Without dyno I'm only guessing. I think I can squeeze 500 out of it with my current mods

I think it's possible if canbus is set too low. Mine starts at76 and I have a breath hesitation on take off at low RPM.

Pretty straightforward to rebuild, getting it a part can be fun.

Like @Mopar1973Man mentioned they are very similar, and like @trreed said there are some differences, main one is the exhaust on my turbo is still 3" where the s362 is 4" so the 4-inch one will flow better. If it wasn't for my exhaust brake I would have went with s362. This is the turbo I got from link I posted above compared to hx35. I would call them and talk to Zack is who helped me, he should be able to answer all the questions. I remember that it's hx35 exhaust housing that is ported for a bigger wheel from some other holset turbo that was used on some other big engine, then the intake housing is from hx40, billet extended tip compressor wheel and all genuine holset parts nothing from china.