Dieselfuture

If you get bored you can skim through my threads

At first I was going to say valve seals, but you're saying on the acceleration it does it too, that points more towards turbo imo. You can also check your valve seals make sure they didn't pop off the seat and got beat up by retainers. That's what happened with my new rebuilt head.

Tank should be fine, it's the filter neck. Too small to fit diesel nozzle in the hole. And if it was me, I'd up size the lines to at least 3/8.

So it happened in one evening?

May I ask what brand of injectors/nozzles, how many miles on them. Any signs of it happening.

I'm sure you can squeeze something in that space

So what did you do from when you couldn't reset it, to now that it resets all the time. I think there were some updates to the app, do you have the right vehicle profile selected.

That's a 5in exhaust, how big is yours

They're approaching expiration date

You can rebuild it for 50 bucks plush shipping with genuine holset kit from dap, diesel auto power. If the shaft didn't groove housing and compressor wheel didn't hit compressor housing. If it's leaking out of exhaust good chance housing needs fixed. You can by a used hx35 for $100-200 and put it on if it looks good or rebuilt it before hand. If you're going to spend more than few hundred bucks on hx35 you maybe money ahead on getting something like 62/65/12 Not sure on your future goals and needs.

I would check with them, they have deals once in awhile where for 300 they will fix and program, plus shipping. They have a whole ecm for 700 or repair for 250 right now. Need to fill out the form and pay in advance, plus make sure to include all codes, problems associated with it. https://autocomputerspecialist.com/shop-now?olsPage=products

I just posted this in another thread recently, NV4500 with coolers. Although it's hard to keep up with all of them

It'll be fine, make ahead Shield like I did, or wrap your exhaust

I've added extra grounds on my truck it's called bonding, I ran one from passenger battery to alternator bottom bracket, one from driver battery to frame and another from driver battery to body. However I would not recommend doing this until you do the W-T ground mod and check the rest of your wires to make sure everything is working properly. You don't want to be changing paths of current from its design location, the only ones to change would be in the WT mod. This is all my opinion, wait for more replies

He smoked it be my guess, sorry I'm with @dave110 get the one from @Ed ke6bnl pay for shipping, can't go wrong with that 80k almost want to buy it myself

I would personally not spend money on stock injectors, RV275's if you're going to do that. 7x10 vco set to 320 pop works very well to with quadzilla. To me it looks like carbon build up some sort of blow by, trying to think how blow-by would get there do all of them look like that or just one

I can not remember if I used a non divided gasket on devided manifold when I put my hybrid 35/40 in. Can someone remind me good vs bad in diferent gaskets vs manifolds/turbos combos.

You gonna make me want to check it now, you're talking on the filter by exhaust right?

Yeah I went pain happy there, I think it still drying

I'm sure there are waterproof relays that are surge protected also, main thing is to make sure that's has a resistor or a diode

Picture is messing with you, it's shiny black paint

That's why I put a filter on passenger side and a heat shield for the exhaust, only used one cooler on the driver side

Here is my contraption

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html Pretty sure most part stores will have something

You can jump the relay and see if it stays on. Check power supply from ECM to repay. Could be just a bad relay, I changed mine to protective one, thanks to @IBMobile