Dieselfuture

This is a common problem, new Cummins models are switching to better trunion design. Has nothing to do with oil. This is what I use on everything, https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-verizon&ei=m-2cXOHQDIHYjwT53aiIAg&q=berryman+b12+chemtool&oq=berryman+b12+c&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-serp.1.0.0l2j0i67j0l2j0i67j0l2.12363.12775..13881...0.0..0.304.444.0j1j0j1......0....1.........0i71.4QAs3IGZnO8

Both were galled up, Scotch-Brite doesn't make it smooth it just polishes it up a little. You can see in an aftermarket trunnion there is a groove cut sideways so oil can get all through the rocker surface. Plus trunion is made out of tool steel and according to Manton should never wear out. He said because the trunion and rocker were made out of same steel they ate each other up.

Personally I would not put it back together the way it is. I got new trunnions from Manton pushrods and reused rockers after cleaning holes with Scotch-Brite. http://mantonpushrods.com/products/diesel-rockerarm-hardware/ It's kind of an expensive option but that's what I chose to do. For you this may be a better way to go https://www.mddistributorsstore.com/item/cum4995602/cummins-rocker-lever-assy-intake-and-exhaust-cummins-5.9l-6.7l/1.html I used a vacuum cleaner as I was scraping, then I seen a video of someone trying to use a flat sharping stone to go back and forth on the block. I had a new one for sharpening knives I tried, but I didn't get carried away with it. It's easy to round off edges if you're not careful. Then I use lots of high-strength carb clean, I sprayed it in holes where the bolts go in and used vacuum to clean them up. Put vacuum next to a hole and have it running as you spray carb clean down the hole and you can see dirt and stuff coming right out. Better you clean it better off you are.

If you got v2tuning I'd say go with 7x10 vco set at 320bar

Yes gauge is a must, in the end it's not so much psi it's volume. I ran hx35 then switch to hx35 / 40 hybrid, quite a bit more power but still running same PSI range. Injectors and tuning would be your next best bet. Let's just say your butt would look like this

For some reason I thought the rod on the pedal that connects to master is adjustable. It's been awhile since I changed my hydraulics, can't remember. Have you ever changed your hydraulics, could there be air in that's system. I followed @Mopar1973Man instructions and bench bled mine before installing it. I think my pedal has to be pretty close to the floor to shift but not all the way to the floor. Like you said could be something with the clutch. As for putting money in the truck and not being able to get it out of it when you sell it, that is totally normal. The only way to deal with that is put some miles on it and make it worthwhile, keep fixing things up or let it go to the highest bidder and move on. Vehicle is never a good investment. When I used to mess a lot more with cars and spent money on performance parts, the rule of thumb was if you can get half of what you paid for it, was considered good. If you got more than half then you're doing really well. That's just how used car parts and all that stuff works in general. Of course when we have it we think it's worth a lot more.

Snubberis a good start but without niddle valve it will still bounce fast on the gauge like in your video.

Good luck to you along the way. I also did not reuse steel retainers on exhaust bolts, so far it's fine. What treed said on everything else. Since you didn't separate turbo and the manifold I would leave it be for now you can always rebuild it later. It may another few hundred thousand.

It's probably your ball and spring in the return of Fass to tank. Common problem. Also do you have a needle valve before pressure gauge to regulate pressure swings and keep the gauge from being damaged

But that should only be affected on high PSI when wastegate is set to open? Am I thinking correctly. My wastegate isn't even hooked up it's always closed, I rely more on tuning and defuel settings as backup. I can see where milling divider may help in better spooling, unless it has nothing to do with that.

Here is what I think. You're young and have extra money to play with. Doesn't sound like you need this truck to make money with, haul tools to construction site that's easy to get in and out, pull a gooseneck trailer, etc. I was young once and that's exactly what I did, I build fast cars and big trucks. Did it cost money, oh yeah, would I like to get that money back to pay off the house, or put it to better use, yeah. Would I go back and change it all, experience/ knowledge that will come with it, Joy of accomplishing something, all the things you learn along the way and people you meet, no... I would not change that. So I guess the point is, to each their own. Most of us are looking at it this way, been there done that, not really worth it in the long run. You just want something cool, and sounds like to be a part of the whole process. I say go for it, at least when you get older, you'll have something to talk about, look back at it and say yeah I did that. Money is here one day and not hear the next and things change in life so much you never know what will happen. Do good in school and get a good job, then you'll have all the money you need. That of course depends on what you want to become, you can do really well in school and not get a job. But that's whole other subject. I suppose if you got kids and family to support, it would be foolish/ selfish thing to do. If you're single I don't see why not. Just know in the long run it's money down the drain, but then again what would you prefer money or other things. Look at people signatures, a lot of times it'll tell you what works and what doesn't. Not sure if I made any sense

It's because you have twins, I believe that is why less drone

Before you put your supply oil line on the turbo, dump some oil in the hole and rotate the shaft, that should do the trick. Before I put my turbo on, I dumped oil in the hole put my fingers over holes and rotated turbo in each direction and spun the shaft forward and backwards. Oil will be there as soon as you fire up the engine you just need some oil on bearings for initial startup.

My mileage suck above 65mph if I stay under that I'm over 20, so it's more to do with speed and tire size imo.

All I know is the guy that did it was saying how they blow sometimes for no reason and about 5 minutes later it blow up, he packed up and said I'm done for today. Few days later came back with another switch and got it put in.

I've seen a 3 phase transfer switch blow up up on the new installation, guy said it was static that caused it to explode. Not sure what's in them things but I try to stay clear of them.

I work on mine often enough dirt gets wiped off periodically, usually with clean clothes

Thing is it the ego that most can't get pass, and she has a huge one. She does have good qualities too don't get me wrong, it just doesn't shine as often.

I changed my blinker to electronic when I put led bulbs in, the one circled in yellow. I also used a push in fitting with my fuel gauge and 1/8" brake line, then I put a 1/2" fuel hose over that fitting on guage and ran it out of fire wall, so if there is a leak it will drip on the ground outside, basically I used 1/2" fuel line as conduit. @dripley has a good idea also, you'll know sooner to shut it off.

I'm pretty sure people backed in to my truck before in parking lots,once in a while I find paint chips missing on pieces that stick out. Once a year I touch them up and keep going.

Here is my wife's analogy. ( wouldn't it be easier to buy a truck that has these options already ) go and try to explain anything after that. I'm still an idiot at the end of day.

When I had my 12v I ran a 3/8 all throughout, part of reason lines were leaking and no fuel gauge, so I modified the fuel module too while at it. Does a stock 12v need bigger lines, probably not nether does a 24v. But if you're changing lines might as well, doesn't cost much more for piece of mind. I guess to PO if lines are fine and no mods/power increase on engine then should be able to reuse v10 lines,

Don't overpack too much, may push seals out later when you're not looking, ask me how I know

Now would be a good time to upgrade your fuel system, I would not use factory lines they are too restrictive. At least a 3/8 supply and return, most of us went to half inch. The only one that stays factory is a return from vp44 and back side of the head where it meets into a T and back to tank.

Valve body