Dieselfuture

If I didn't have my bmk 21 from Amsoil II'd probably try it. Can't be any worse than original factory filter.

^^^^^ what he said, plus your fluctuation in AC noise is from your grids cycling, unhook them from driver side battery or drive a truck around the block so they cancel out and without shutting the truck off do the same test again

I got the ones from A-1 Auto about 4-5 years now they do jiggle just a lil but nothing bad driving down the road. The ones I have are power and heated, that was the original option on my truck. Turn signals would look cool but not sure if I want to deal with wiring and they still work and look great so I'm going to leave them be for a while. Not sure if you know but you need backing brackets also for support.

I was thinking about doing it but haven't yet, seems like most of them kids put hotspots on the dash, I don't like seeing that

I was going to make a smart joke about gender neutral bathroom, but since we're talking about your future kid I decided to hold myself back. It does sound like you're running out of VP supplying fuel, if I get on my truck pretty hard it would almost want to die too. A lot of guys burp a throttle few times to keep it running after a race or whatever. You might have to learn to live with it or try a different VP I'd probably slow down on burnouts soon you'll need money for diapers. Congrats

If you're going to do anything to clean block other than razor blade, use a stone like mentioned, just be careful not to over do it and round off corners or take too much off between cylinders. I tried a stone too, I soaked it in oil before using it. Wider stone helps to keep it level. But yes oil passages can get crap in them. Scotch-Brite is messy, when I polished my rockers I had to spray them off with carb cleaner and blow-dry with air. Them tiny little particles were everywhere.

Is this a new one we have to learn, or has it been around. Soon we'll be comunicating like this, hgyffsdrtjknvvklotrscvnkiy.

I'm enjoying my push button for greeds, but no smog testing here

Yeah and your cylinder walls will look like mine.

My dowel rings stayed in the block, I didn't mess with them. I'm sure they come out somewhat easy, I didn't want to screw them up

I think I wiped it clean and could see that injector pattern after, can't remember if it was all black in beginning Same here. Timing advancement of the Edge Comp? I didn't think I run extraordinary timing from everyone else, could of been injectors I was using, the ones came out that time were some aftermarket nozzles, I had dap rebuild them a while back.

I think yours looks way better than mine, and this thing only had 153k when I did this, unless it's a different engine. And definitely something went through the motor to scuff it up like it did. Another thing sucks about not owning a vehicle from new. Second picture you can see almost like someone machined a little chunk off inside cylinder wall on top middle where it meets the head

I agree, but... if he only did 1/2" from pump to stock fuel filter, he's choking the flow everywhere else. If it's 1/2" all throughout psi swing will be much less. Gmo

So for someone with a brace they can use adjustable hydros to have engagement higher off the floor and put a 2x4 on the floor under pedal to prevent from hyper extending.

There won't be a light on the dash but there should be a code stored in ECM for no lift pump circuit, or something like that. In California you can't have any codes or they won't pass smog. Not even sure why I'm talking about something I don't know.

Family first, respect for that. I have an issue though, if something isn't right I tend to not eat and not sleep till I'm done. I need to fix that about myself !!!

How's your cylinder walls look, any pictures. Curious to see after your mileage and dino oil.

Sell smarty, get a quad, 7x10 vco 320 bar from Dap ( if you want certain Pop pressure you have to tell them in advance) I did this more for longevity of injector, because pop pressure settle somewhat fast from what we're figureing out. Guessing in few months it will be around 310 and that's within Bosch's spec. Then get s362 and better lift pump with upgraded fuel lines to keep up with the flow, probably head studs be a good idea. Other than that, twins would be my next step. If you cut corners to get more horsepower you just pay for it in the long run. To do it right and have something dependable, always takes time and money, at least it's been this way for me.

Without lifting the truck, 285/70/17, 285/75/16, this is with no rubbing on control arms. You can go a few sizes bigger but as you turn steering wheel all the way tires will rub on control arms. I had 35s on my 12-valve, with no lift but the lugs were going, ting ting ting on control arms. The only reason I put them on, is I got them used for a good deal and I also had 4:10s, I could finally go 65 without engine screaming.

Manton website just advertises them as 24 valve, no year listed.

I better not ever get that one as a returned gearbox from blue top

What happens if you only torque it to 250 or even 200. I believe that spindle and the nut actually keep the bearing from coming apart, but I have used a 20-ton press to try and get it apart and all I did was bent half inch brackets I made to support the bearing, never did get them separated, I think 50 ton may do it

Rocker assembly is somewhat simple to change out, you can always reuse what you have and deal with it later. It's no different than your turbo or other parts, like main bearings rod bearings or cam bearings, in a perfect world we would all rebuild our engines, for now just do the head gasket, and maybe spend money on head studs instead of rockers.