TFaoro

Thanks again Bill. I want one simply for the mileage they get. When I'm out of college I'll be driving 100 miles each day until I can buy a place closer to work, so one of these cars would save me a bunch of money.

Thanks @Wild and Free! That's good information. I check into their forums as well. I've done a little bit of research and it looks like the "auto" is a pretty good transmission as long as you don't try and push a bunch of power through it. Do you know when your car will be bought back and if VW will be selling them right away? I really don't care about the emissions as I plan on deleting it when funds permit anyway

Hey guys does anyone on here have any experience with the VW TDI vehicles? I'm looking at getting a 2010+ TDI so I can drive between school and the business my brother and I bought, and I really like the TDI mileage potential. Aside from the emissions "scandal" (which is rather impressive ) are any of you aware of issues associated with these years? I'm also looking at getting a DSG automatic if that means anything. (BTW if you don't know what the DSG is you should look it up!) Thanks!

For 80mph revs are much higher and timing should be adjusted accordingly. Basically you need a cruise timing for the speed you plan on running. For me around 70-75mph 20* works best. If I were pushing 80 I would probably try to bump timing to around 22*.

That's weight reduction boss! All I can say is you've dynoed more power on fuel only with a vp than a Ppump

Le'ts just say I can control whether it surges or not! (No it does not surge when timing is set correctly ) I'll try and get the update stuff done on my laptop again so I can try that newest high rpm tune.

You're right more often than me I'm gonna take this one!

Changing the key isn't going to make a big enough difference to even notice. I would pretty much guarantee that. Slipping a tooth does require pulling the front cover off. It is impossible to slip a tooth without the gear being outside the housing. I would do it but that seems like a lot of work for no gain considering we can get to 30* now. Mine doesn't like over 22-23 @2000 rpm anyway. Makes it give a gentle surge with higher timing than 23* that @Me78569 swore was my truck and not the quad

Let me know if you want to play with the TST. I don't think so considering they idle at over 20* when cold. Who knows what's really going on inside them.

Since mine was stolen and valued in parts at 49K I've looked into what you're saying. As @CSM said, you have to have a declared value and insurance is more expensive that way. Sad the insurance companies don't pay what the vehicles are actually worth.

7/8 and it's very hard to find locally. Online it's very expensive.

I've got a TST comp. The PM3 dies off like a stock truck does, but the comp keeps fueling. It is also likes to surge on the high numbers and doesn't rev as high as they claim. What year is your truck @Carbur8tr?

To me the "popping" seems like it happens right when canbus hits zero and wiretap is still fueling. I'll drop my timing and see if that fixes it, but I doubt it. Higher timing at higher rpm is normally a good thing. Although nothing with a VP seems normal

The secondary seems about the same or maybe just a touch faster. The primary definitely comes in later but there's still plenty of meat under the power curve for what I want. I've got about 5psi from the primary when the combined boost is at 20psi. I'm still playing with the gate though since I managed to bark the 75

Yessir. We'll get it figured out one way or another.

Little turbo Thursday for you gents.

keep dreaming! There's always room for improvement my friend!

You shouldn't have to isolate it if the rest of the system is for sure good. You can just pressurize everything and be good. If you want to be absolutely 100% positive the heater core is good, I think your method is best.

I'll be driving the truck tomorrow, so I'll be able to see what it's doing, but for now I know at idle state the ECM is kicking out about 1* less timing than the SO trucks. That tells me the pump may be mechanically internally advanced by 1* as compared to the SO trucks.

I just like to keep your mind working I sent you a text. I have some interesting info on HO trucks too. It's definitely weird.

Mine is still reading zero, but I am at altitude... idk what is up. If I had to guess, it would be "better" to have a -2 offset during the summer because warmer less dense air will make it smoke a touch more. Then again, having it at 2psi during the winter doesn't make it smoke because of the cool dense air. Potato Patato I wouldn't go quite that far YET... I've been busy the last month setting up and running a business that my brother and I bought. I have a few things I'd like to see improved, but we'll get there.

Little update on this..... I flushed the system with the old pump, installed a new pump and still have a nice groan from 1000 to 1200rpm while turning. Not a big deal for now, but something elsewhere is definitely wrong. I'll tear into it this summer, but for now everything is working "well" so I'll leave it alone until the summer months come.

I've never seen temps over 130-140 when it's hot, but mine does warm up well. When it was -4*F running 75 trans temp got up to 105 or so. I haven't looked into filters, but when summer comes I am going to change the oil again.

Hopefully the timing does what I want it to! Ready to test it. I will have a PM to you in a few minutes.

Never heard of this happening with the rocker coming loose. However, considering it is an intake rocker that came loose I don't see that blowing the gasket. No intake means no air, which means less pressure. This is why I ALWAYS break the studs back loose and re-torque them at least 2 more times before the truck moves. On my motor I did 3 times. Live and learn I suppose.