TFaoro

And thus my point is proven You were taught, and I'm sure I'd be comfortable around you with a weapon. I highly doubt any gang members were trained in any fashion. They were probably just told to point and shoot.

Because you only took part of my comment into consideration. I did say at my school (well not explicitly but it was definitely inferred), which is one of the top ranking engineering colleges in the nation. It's located in the city with some of the nerdiest little weirdos who need a safe space. Now if I was back home and saw that I wouldn't think twice. Tons of people have them hanging in the rear window of their vehicles and most are taught to handle them properly by their parents.

That depends on which side you are on.... All I'm saying is, I prefer to be around someone who knows the "every gun is loaded" rule and has been taught how to handle / fire the weapon rather than a person with no education. Like at school, there a former Marine in one of my classes (you'd never know though) and I've seen him with a concealed weapon. Most people don't see it, but I notice those things. It doesn't frighten me at all considering I know he knows how to handle the weapon properly. Now if I saw some nerdy kid with braces that struggles to pick up his backpack with a weapon, I would be concerned without knowing his education.

I disagree with this statement.... I would say guns are not dangerous. Uneducated, untrained people with guns can be dangerous.

If you can I would highly suggest breaking each stud completely loose and torquing it back down in sequence twice. It take the stretch out of the new stud. I've seen too many reports of people popping head gaskets after a stud install to not suggest it. Wiretap is scaled under "boost scaling." It works in conjunction with "pump low boost scale psi." You set the "pump low boost scale psi" then add that number to the "boost scaling" and you have your map. Wiretap will start at "pump low boost scale psi" and max out at "boost scaling" + "pump low boost scale psi." For those needing to pour the fuel on the fire, "Pump low boost%" is used to dump extra fuel early. Although, I've found pouring too much fuel on the fire puts the fire out.

After city driving for about 30 min, the lines were only warm. They used to be boiling hot, but I'm not sure because it's only 20* right now.

I'm just curious I notice slightly higher mileage with my topper on, so I was wondering how you think it'll affect yours.

I like it! Any idea whether this will have any effect on MPGs?

Do you have access to a live data tool? You can see what all of the sensors are reading with the tool. If the MAP sensor is stuck at zero, it's not going to fuel much at all.

I'll feel the lines tomorrow and see if they're on fire like they normally are. Maybe you're right.... What's going on with yours?

I think long bed tanks are 34 gallons and short beds are 32 gallons. At a quarter you SHOULD have 8.5 for a long bed and 8 for a short bed. It's off by a bit, but not too bad. Mine doesn't move until about 6 gallons have been used, but after half a tank it seems to drop off pretty quickly.

That's impressive @Mopar1973Man! Never seen one that bad, but I guess that's what you get when water gets in there. I usually kick the lift pump on and drain the water out of mine once a month just to be sure. I've also had bad luck with fuel, even using high volume stations. 3 times in 3 years all around 15* below zero. Even diesel 911 didn't help one of those tanks. Never been back there, but I think I finally found a good station, so we'll see how this year goes.

So I left to go study at a friends house today and it acted just like yesterday for the first ten minutes or so. No brakes or steering at idle. By the time I got to his apartment it had started to loosen up and was just a bit stiff at idle. The truck sat there for 5 hours or so and completely cooled off. To my surprise, everything is acting perfectly normal again??? I'll see tomorrow if it's still acting normal, but I have a theory. For those who have been around here a while know that I go through PS pumps like crazy, especially during the summer. They usually last about a month in the heat before they start making noise at 1200rpm, and the lines running to the hydroboost are always on fire. I wonder if I didn't dislodge something in the hydroboost that was causing the pumps to burn up, and it got stuck around the inlet to the pump, making flow nearly impossible at low rpm. Then that debris either fell down into the reservoir or broke apart? What do you guys think? Either way I'm going to replace the pump after finals. Gotta love the lifetime warranty.

Walmart has Pioneer 6x9 speakers for pretty cheap. Zero modification to the doors. You do have to cut the wires off and splice them to the new wires, but that's easy. Very good sound out of them too!

Yup, the colder the IAT, the longer the grid heater will stay on. 3cyl before staring keeps the grids on for a long time. I use it any time my engine temp is below 35.

Thanks guys. Now, do I replace my PS pump so I can safely drive to finals? Or use that time to study so I don't fail my finals? Looked over the scratches too. Looks like they can be buffed out. Gotta love having 3 coats of clear.

If it's steam I think you're good. If it's fuel, you may want to look into a set of injectors. Stock injectors definitely shouldn't smoke at 30* when using the grid heater. Maybe flip the switch to 3cyl before startup and see if that changes anything. The grids will get much hotter.

So a bit of a rough day today. I went and picked up a 350,000 BTU heater out in the middle of nowhere today for my dad. I was headed home (about 5 miles from the guys house I bought the heater from) and some guy decided he wasn't going to share the road with me. This was a pretty narrow 2 way road covered in ice. I pulled it over and went into the ditch where there's about a foot drop off into snow and an embankment with sporadic trees. The nice gentlemen didn't have the courtesy to stop, so I hopped out and broke the branches on the tree already hitting my hood. I then rocked it back and forth to get moving and plowed down the ditch a way through another tree (even folded my mirror in.) I got stuck again and had to rock it back and forth when I noticed my brake petal became hard as a rock. So I said the heck with it, threw it in 3rd gear and held it at 3500 rpm until it pulled itself out. When I got out I put it in neutral and the truck skidded to a stop. For some reason the ABS had locked the brakes. Unplugging the module did nothing, so I shut it off and beat on the brake petal with my foot and they released. After that I've got virtually no brakes below 1500 rpm and nearly no steering power below 2000 rpm. Idling I can not turn and have no brakes. I did limp it 80 miles back to school driving very carefully but it's pretty sketchy driving through parking lots and such. So I've got a scratched truck, no brakes and no power steering. Does this sound like a PS pump issue or does it sound like something else may have let loose?

What size injectors are in it? Do you have the high idle hooked up in it?

I'm not mad about this. Not one bit. @KATOOM I agree with you 100%. Start doing some research on bankers such as the Rothschilds, Soros, and it all starts to make sense. One family has banks in every country except 3. A family worth of 500 Trillion dollars. Makes it hard to imagine just how much power they have and how much manipulation they do.

The graphs you'll get will be completely different because RPM will be different. Now if you power braked at exactly 1500rpm while stock and I did the same the graphs would be identical. ECM has no way of detecting hard part changes like injectors, turbos, ets.

@xxTJRocksxx What're you looking for out of these logs? There is no way to compare vehicle to vehicle considering elevation, mods, injection pump health, tire size, gearing, etc. I've also got some severe lag on my MAP sensor as boost will jump as much as 8+ psi in under 0.3 seconds, so I'm not sure if the numbers will be worth anything. At 1580 rpm the logs say 2.5 seconds. At 1170 rpm the logs say 6.8 seconds.

I would not be worried about 3psi. So, I THINK I've seen more boost with more timing, although I don't have definitive data to back that up. I might work with @Me78569 to get that data for sure. Might work on the pulling timing as well to see the effects.

That little bouncing of the tach? That's normal.... RPMs aren't fluctuating that much. You'll need a live data tool to see what the RPMs actually are.

Yup. I figured that's what you were hearing. The only thing that has made any difference was valve lash. As weird as it is, nothing else has made a difference. I was just like you and did everything I could to make it stop. Best advice I can give you is QUIT WORRYING and don't spend any money on trying to fix it as your efforts will be wasted.